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2011 Explorer "check charging system"

Matt Iredale

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August 18, 2016
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City, State
Lebanon, Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Ford Explorer
My 2011 limited displays error check charging system and battery light. I replaced the battery but it did not correct the issue. My next step is the alternator but by the looking at it I am not sure how to get it out after I disconnect it? Do I need to remove the power steering pump to remove the alternator or can I remove it through the wheel well? Any help would be appreciated!
 



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I can't remember which car I had to do it on, but I <think> it was our '11 Explorer...
Check the ground strap going to the frame. Mine was corroded and had broken free of the body attachment point. An easy fix if you know where to look. Seems like it was accessed from underneath, on the passenger side, maybe forward of the front axle.
 






My 2011 limited displays error check charging system and battery light. I replaced the battery but it did not correct the issue. My next step is the alternator but by the looking at it I am not sure how to get it out after I disconnect it? Do I need to remove the power steering pump to remove the alternator or can I remove it through the wheel well? Any help would be appreciated!

Power steering pump? You mean A/C compressor? 2011+ Explorers have electronic power steering (motor is in steering column).

FSM says that the cooling fans have to be removed as well as the RH fender splash shield. Maybe able to get by with just removing splash shield.

Top bolt of alternator is actually a stud with a nut on the end.
Bottom is an actual bolt.
 






My 2011 limited displays error check charging system and battery light. I replaced the battery but it did not correct the issue. My next step is the alternator but by the looking at it I am not sure how to get it out after I disconnect it? Do I need to remove the power steering pump to remove the alternator or can I remove it through the wheel well? Any help would be appreciated!
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
Before going through all the work that sheltonfilms mentioned, have you had the alternator checked to make sure it is actually the problem?

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
Before going through all the work that sheltonfilms mentioned, have you had the alternator checked to make sure it is actually the problem?

Peter
Yes. The voltage dips with engine running and the battery checks good. Also, I checked all connections to make sure they were tight
 






Peter is right. Should verify it is the alternator.

This isn't your regular style alternator system. It's controlled by the PCM using the battery sensor on the battery terminal to determine how much your alternator load should be. In the service manual there is about 3 pages of details on what everything does, but the whole strategy in a nutshell is improvement on fuel economy.

With a charging error you should have a DTC code. You should get it scanned before buying a part that you may not need. These codes show that they are set in the PCM so they should be able to be read by any OBDII scanner.

Post the codes and we can go from there.
 












Well I got the alternator changed out and so far it fixed my issue. Shelton was right.. I had to pull the splash guard and fans. There is no way to get it out without the fans removed. It took me about 4 hours to complete from start to finish. Thanks for all the help everyone!
 






Well I got the alternator changed out and so far it fixed my issue. Shelton was right.. I had to pull the splash guard and fans. There is no way to get it out without the fans removed. It took me about 4 hours to complete from start to finish. Thanks for all the help everyone!

Good to hear. You with a motorcraft alternator or auto parts store house brand?

Should have made a How To tutorial for the other guys out there. I try to make how to's, but I have to wait until my stuff breaks first.
 






I guess I celebrated prematurely! After changing the alternator, I still have the same issue. I did notice it does not happen unless the ac is on. With the ac on the rpms dip real low and the light comes on. It is almost like the ac is drawing too much power? I'm at a loss now. I also swapped out relays with no luck.
 






I guess I celebrated prematurely! After changing the alternator, I still have the same issue. I did notice it does not happen unless the ac is on. With the ac on the rpms dip real low and the light comes on. It is almost like the ac is drawing too much power? I'm at a loss now. I also swapped out relays with no luck.
Get codes scanned.
 












Where did you get your alternator? The last time I went to a parts store and purchased one it took me 3 more to get one that worked properly.
 






I had autozone scan and they said there was no code. His code reader did look like it was made by fisher price though.. Lol

According to what I see it should show a regular DTC code. May have to break down and try using Forscan.
 






Is one of the front mount cooling fans in any way dedicated to the A/C system? Just wondering what part of the system could be drawing that much power, and trying to learn a bit of automotive diagnostics. :)
 






Is one of the front mount cooling fans in any way dedicated to the A/C system? Just wondering what part of the system could be drawing that much power, and trying to learn a bit of automotive diagnostics. :)
Although I'm not entirely sure I believe the cooling fans work in tandem and not individually.

Peter
 






Is one of the front mount cooling fans in any way dedicated to the A/C system? Just wondering what part of the system could be drawing that much power, and trying to learn a bit of automotive diagnostics. :)

There is a fan speed controller that controls both fans and that gets a signal from the PCM. I think they both come on but depending on A/C pressures the fan speed is controlled/modulated. It's a single wire hookup which leads me to believe it just tells the system what speed to run.

BTW the fuse for the fans is 60A!
 






Thanks. As I understand it, the A/C "on" causes the PCM to increase fan speed for both fans. If that is correct, and it is a 60A (!!!) circuit could there be something wrong with the fans (or that system) causing a larger drain than the alternator is capable of handling?
 






It turns out that the issue was in the wiring harness coming off the battery. There was no evidence of corrosion initially until I stripped the wire insulation back. It appears the battery leaked and ran down the harness which corroded it. $400 and a new harness and it's been running strong for a week now.
 



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Thanks for the update and I'm glad you found the problem.
 






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