2013 Explorer Limited Lease Numbers (2/23/2012) | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2013 Explorer Limited Lease Numbers (2/23/2012)

Depends on the deal. See my post just above this one. I have a low out of pocket, and a low monthly payment, and I get a new vehicle in 2years. Good 2yr leases are hard to come by these days, you need to shop around.

if you're paying 395/mo on a two year lease more power to you, but i def disagree that 4,000 out of pocket is low for a lease.... buying is a different story, but i never pay a penny out of pocket for a lease. but thats me, I'm not saying you're wrong for doing it, i would rather invest that money...
 



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if you're paying 395/mo on a two year lease more power to you, but i def disagree that 4,000 out of pocket is low for a lease.... buying is a different story, but i never pay a penny out of pocket for a lease. but thats me, I'm not saying you're wrong for doing it, i would rather invest that money...

Its all about the total numbers out of pocket at the end of lease. I have the cash, so I like the lower monthly payment. I don't think a lot of buyers do the math and figure out what they are paying over the life of the lease including the down payment.
 






Its all about the total numbers out of pocket at the end of lease. I have the cash, so I like the lower monthly payment. I don't think a lot of buyers do the math and figure out what they are paying over the life of the lease including the down payment.
I also prefer to use the downpayment method to reduce the monthly payments. Always have. You eventually end up paying it anyway, whether up front or in higher monthly payments. And by taking advantage of the multiple refundable security deposits, I reduced the lease rate by 1.5% over the 48 month term. The residual at that time will be just under $19,160 and with the refundable security deposit of $6250, I will be able to buy the Explorer, if so desired, for an extra $12,900 (taxes not included) and the mileage will likely be around 32,000 km or 20,000 miles given my current driving pattern.

I believe that most individuals makes a decision based on what best suits their current and long term situation. Therefore it may not always seem to be the best choice from another's point of view. That is reality and applies to leasing and/or buying outright and is not just limited to vehicles.

Peter
 






Totally disagree. My xlt is roughly $4k less than your 2013 limited. I was approved tier1 also. Do the math...I have a 2yr lease with 12k miles a year. I put out of pocket $4k, and my payment is $395.....Im sorry, but you ARE getting screwed over on that deal. Shop around, trust me, you could do much better.
I've called two additional dealers. I've read them the numbers for my deal. Neither could really do any better; overall out of pocket and payments are essentially the same. If you know of a dealer that can significantly beat what I have been offered, please post it and I will go through them. Regardless, bear in mind that aside from $500 cash incentive, there are no others currently available. A $1000 incentive with the the current residual equates to a decrease in monthly payment of about $15. The stacking of incentives that have been available for the 2012 model adds up to $2500 which is about $46 reduction. Then, when the fact that the 2012 model has a lease APR of 0.5% compared with the current 2013 model's 2.9%, the numbers do make sense.
Again, please give me the phone number of a dealer that you know can offer a better deal.

Hopefully, now that tomorrow is a Thursday and it's a new month, Ford will release newer, better numbers for the 2013 Limited.
 






Money Factor

What is Money factor ? Never heard of it before

Also I have a very good Credit score 730 + but no EMI history since I've never opted for any car / mortgage / personal loan in past. Any idea if would this be an adverse factor in getting approved for Tier I financing from Ford for the Lease ?

~A
 






I also prefer to use the downpayment method to reduce the monthly payments. Always have. You eventually end up paying it anyway, whether up front or in higher monthly payments. And by taking advantage of the multiple refundable security deposits, I reduced the lease rate by 1.5% over the 48 month term. The residual at that time will be just under $19,160 and with the refundable security deposit of $6250, I will be able to buy the Explorer, if so desired, for an extra $12,900 (taxes not included) and the mileage will likely be around 32,000 km or 20,000 miles given my current driving pattern.

I believe that most individuals makes a decision based on what best suits their current and long term situation. Therefore it may not always seem to be the best choice from another's point of view. That is reality and applies to leasing and/or buying outright and is not just limited to vehicles.

Peter

Wish I only put 8K on a year. I already have 46000km on. That's one year. Hence no lease for me. Drive way toooooo much.
 






What is Money factor ? Never heard of it before

Also I have a very good Credit score 730 + but no EMI history since I've never opted for any car / mortgage / personal loan in past. Any idea if would this be an adverse factor in getting approved for Tier I financing from Ford for the Lease ?

~A

Not being a lease person myself, I had no idea what money factor was either. I Googled it and found my answer. The internets is a powerful tool. I would suggest doing the same, you will find lots of sites explaining everything about the car leasing process. They will be better able to explain in depth what it is.
 






For the most part (these #'s can vary of course based on what intial price of vehicle you're buying - these are based on an exporer) this is what happens to your monthly payment when you change things.

on a 48month lease
- $1000 downpayment or incentive = $24
- 1% Lease rate change, either direction = $24
- 3% residual change, either direction = $24
- $1000 less on the MSRP of the vehicle (i.e. buying a cheaper car) = $17

on a 60 month finance
- 1% interest = $20
- $1,000 downpayment/reducition in MSRP = $20
 






Is this a good lease deal on a 2012 XLT FWD ?

Hi folks,

After months of deliberation, am finally ready to take the plunge and the right combination of power and fuel economy being important to me, have decided to go for a 2012 XLT FWD 3.5 V6

The 2 primary reasons for gng for a 2012 instead of 2013 are

1) Better deals offered on 2012s
2) Slightly better FE of 2012 (18/25) over 2013 FWD (17/24) models due to change in gear ratios for 2013s

any thoughts ? brickbats / criticisms are welcome

The following are the details of the vehicle being offered

White platinum Tricoat with charcoal black interior and following options

205 A package, floor mats, Dual moonroof, Nav, power lift gate, Trailer Tow package ( which I don't intend to ever use)

Total MSRP $ 39,630

Vehicle offered for $ 34,321

With $ 2500 out of pocket, the following are the lease numbers

24 months - 12000 miles/year - 408 per month
24 months - 15000 miles/year - 446 per month
39 months - 12000 miles/year - 432 per month
39 months - 15000 miles/year - 454 per month

Will most probably go with the option highlighted above

Is this a good lease deal ? opinions please before I sign on the dotted line

~A
 






bumping up this thread
 






As my friend who is now a president of a bank told me a long time ago if you cant afford to buy it then you for sure cant afford to lease it. most leases in my opinion are a scam to get you to throw away money. if you would do some research im betting you can find a loan somewhere, if your credits good for little or no interest, put your down payment on it and then if you pay the lease amount over 2 or 3 years you at least have something. i know there are instances of vehicles breaking down as soon as the warranty is over but thats why they sell extended warranties. and if you cant get 200,000 miles out of a vehicle then you should not buy it in the 1st place. not saying that if you can afford to buy a new car every two years then do it but if you pay one off and then instead of blowing that money you were paying on a vehicle on stupid crap in 3 years you have a great down payment and you can pay it off in another year or 2. im not wealthy by any means but just was forced to get another vehicle and i borrowed 8500 from a bank on a 3 year loan (just in case i cant make a large payment) but it will be paid off in 1 to 1 1/2 years and then put that extra money away until next time it happens. luckily for me my 04 ex only has 90,000 miles on it so i have atleast 100,000 more to enjoy it.
 






As my friend who is now a president of a bank told me a long time ago if you cant afford to buy it then you for sure cant afford to lease it. most leases in my opinion are a scam to get you to throw away money.

From Forest Gump: "Don't own nothin' if you can help it. If you can, even rent your shoes."

Leases are an enigma to many people. It's more than a glorified rental agreement. Leases are a relatively inexpensive way to use a piece of equipment for an extended period without incurring many of the costs of ownership, which include, amongst other things, dealing with a depreciating asset, but still receiving tax benefits and a predefined exit.

The attraction to leases for cars include lower payments, little responsibility for the vehicle's maintenance, and at the end, you turn it in and, if desired, roll into another brand new car. Also, if you decide to keep the car at lease end, the sale price has been predetermined and is in the lease contract.

As an example, a $10,000 car with a two year residual value of $6,000 (or 60%) will lease for less than two hundred dollars per month, if that, on a two year lease because you're only financing the $4,000 you "used-up" of the vehicle's value. This is as opposed to purchasing, where you finance the whole $10,000. In both cases we're assuming no money down (for the sake of simplicity).

At the end of the lease term, the lessee will have paid $4,000 plus interest which will have been significantly less than the finance rate, plus tax on the original $4,000. Then, you can jump into a brand new car and do it again.

At the end of the purchase term, however, the buyer will have paid $10,000 plus tax and interest, and had a higher monthly payment the whole time. "But now I own it! I have no more payments! It's mine."

True, but what is it you now own? You paid around $13,000 total for a car that is now five years old and only worth about $4,800. You're in the same car for as long as you can, attempting to amortize the total cost of purchase over as long as possible to justify it. Unfortunately, you're no longer under warranty. Instead of car payments, you have repairs. You may have purchased an extended warranty, but you have to add that $1200-$2,000+ cost into your total purchase calculation. You may have even financed it in with the car loan, so add interest too.

As a serial leaser, I can say that I quite enjoy being in a new car every couple of years, always under warranty, and little if any worry about the car since I don't own it, nor do I want to. The caveat, however, is mileage. Someone considering a lease must take your anticipated number of miles driven each year into account. A certain number of miles per year are included in the lease, and higher allotments are available for an increase in price, but they are not unlimited. Ford scales from between 10,000 up to 19,000 miles per year of a lease. This is the highest I have seen available. Since we lease two cars and they are staggered, I have the fun, and it is fun, of shopping for a new car every year, alternating between the two.

Just food for thought.
 






As my friend who is now a president of a bank told me a long time ago if you cant afford to buy it then you for sure cant afford to lease it.
That's funny. When I'm asked why I lease, I say it's because I can't afford to buy it!
People lease for various reasons and most do not intend to keep the vehicle long term. I could take $56,500, the $6,500 is tax, out of my savings but prefer not to. I get a new vehicle every 3-4 years and pay only part of its value and pay tax only on the monthly payment and it is under warranty.
The Explorer is my 5th leased vehicle.

Peter
 






blueoval9erlifer, SORRY TO SAY IF YOU CANT AFFORD TO LEASE NOR BUY WELL THAT IS THE WAY LIFE, BUT TO SAY LIKE YOUR FRIEND WHO A BANK VP THAT YOU CANT BUY SO THEN YOU CANT LEASE IS WRONG, I LEASE CUZ I LOVE A NEW CAR EVERY FEW YEARS AND MOST OF ALL I ALWAYS HAVE WARRENTY ON MY CAR, NOW MOST PEOPLE CAN AFFORD THE CAR BUT NOT THE HIGH COST OF REPAIRS. I ALSO HAVE A 2001 BMW WITH 46K MILES MY WIFE DRIVES THAT ONE ITS IN MINT CONDITION SHE ONLY PUTS ABOUT 4K MILES A YEARS AND I'M ALWAYS ON TOP OF IT WITH THE MAINT BECAUSE OF THE COST OF REPAIRS. BUT MOST OF AMERICA LIVE ON, I O U THATS THE USA WAY !!
 






All said and done the lease v/s purchase debate will continue..however what I need some urgnet feedback on is the lease figures which I have been quoted for a 2012 FWD vehicle below


The following are the details of the vehicle being offered

White platinum Tricoat with charcoal black interior and following options

205 A package, floor mats, Dual moonroof, Nav, power lift gate, Trailer Tow package ( which I don't intend to ever use)

Total MSRP $ 39,630

Vehicle offered for $ 34,321

With $ 2500 out of pocket, the following are the lease numbers

24 months - 12000 miles/year - 408 per month
24 months - 15000 miles/year - 446 per month
39 months - 12000 miles/year - 432 per month
39 months - 15000 miles/year - 454 per month

I am planning to finalised the option highlighted in bold above tomorrow

~A
 






All said and done the lease v/s purchase debate will continue..however what I need some urgnet feedback on is the lease figures which I have been quoted for a 2012 FWD vehicle below


The following are the details of the vehicle being offered

White platinum Tricoat with charcoal black interior and following options

205 A package, floor mats, Dual moonroof, Nav, power lift gate, Trailer Tow package ( which I don't intend to ever use)

Total MSRP $ 39,630

Vehicle offered for $ 34,321

With $ 2500 out of pocket, the following are the lease numbers

24 months - 12000 miles/year - 408 per month
24 months - 15000 miles/year - 446 per month
39 months - 12000 miles/year - 432 per month
39 months - 15000 miles/year - 454 per month

I am planning to finalised the option highlighted in bold above tomorrow

~A

It sounds good to me. I have a late 2011 model XLT with the addition of 4WD, 20" wheels and inflatable belts, minus trailer tow. MSRP was about 41K. I had about the same out of pocket and I'm paying $514 for 24 months 12000 miles/year.
 






Asystole

I got a non-leasing question for you. I'm interested in both XC60 t6 and the Ford explorer Limited AWD with 501a + sun + blis. Both suv have there own positive and negative. Can you give me some reasons why you move from your volvo to a ford?

Thanks

The dealer called me to tell me that Ford released the lease figures for the 2013 Explorer today. Here's what he gave me for the car I ordered this past Saturday:

Residual: 62% based on 15,000 miles per year, 24 months
Add 1% for every 1,500 miles LESS you want (10,000 miles per year, 24 months, would be a 65% residual)

Money factor for the same vehicle, 24 months = 0.00246 (5.9%)

I ordered the Limited, V6 3.5L 4WD, and the 302A option pkg, sun roof, and DVD headrests, roof rack cross bars, and all weather mats, though the options don't change the numbers.

I have an X-Plan price of $47K, the MSRP is $50K. I'm putting down between trade (2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD) and cash a total of $13,450 (max permissible under the lease) and will have a monthly payment of $402.

Hope this is helpful
 






All said and done the lease v/s purchase debate will continue..however what I need some urgnet feedback on is the lease figures which I have been quoted for a 2012 FWD vehicle below


The following are the details of the vehicle being offered

White platinum Tricoat with charcoal black interior and following options

205 A package, floor mats, Dual moonroof, Nav, power lift gate, Trailer Tow package ( which I don't intend to ever use)

Total MSRP $ 39,630

Vehicle offered for $ 34,321

With $ 2500 out of pocket, the following are the lease numbers

24 months - 12000 miles/year - 408 per month
24 months - 15000 miles/year - 446 per month
39 months - 12000 miles/year - 432 per month
39 months - 15000 miles/year - 454 per month

I am planning to finalised the option highlighted in bold above tomorrow

~A

Finalised the following deal today and left a $ 500 deposit on the car which will be ready for pickup on Monday

2012 FWD XLT 3.5 L V6

Ingot Silver Metallic with charcoal black interior and following options

205 A package, floor mats, Dual moonroof, Nav,

Total MSRP $ 38,070

With a total of $ 2500 out of pocket, I sealed the deal for $ 400 a month for 39 months at 12K miles / year.

Remote starter also included.

Does this sound like a good deal ? opinions pls

~A
 






Finalised the following deal today and left a $ 500 deposit on the car which will be ready for pickup on Monday

2012 FWD XLT 3.5 L V6

Ingot Silver Metallic with charcoal black interior and following options

205 A package, floor mats, Dual moonroof, Nav,

Total MSRP $ 38,070

With a total of $ 2500 out of pocket, I sealed the deal for $ 400 a month for 39 months at 12K miles / year.

Remote starter also included.

Does this sound like a good deal ? opinions pls

~A
Not sure of the rates in the U.S. but I'm paying $570/month for 48 months on a loaded Limited AWD that I got for around $48K (don't have paperwork handy) and that was with $10K down. Actually only $5K out of pocket since the person that took over the lease on my '09 Highlander gave me $5K back on my Toyota deposit.
If the floor mats you refer to are the all weather mats, I would suggest that you delete them and go for the Husky or Weathertech mats. Much, much better.
Good luck with your new vehicle. Happy motoring.

Peter
 



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Not sure of the rates in the U.S. but I'm paying $570/month for 48 months on a loaded Limited AWD that I got for around $48K (don't have paperwork handy) and that was with $10K down. Actually only $5K out of pocket since the person that took over the lease on my '09 Highlander gave me $5K back on my Toyota deposit.
If the floor mats you refer to are the all weather mats, I would suggest that you delete them and go for the Husky or Weathertech mats. Much, much better.
Good luck with your new vehicle. Happy motoring.

Peter

Thanks Peter are the Husky or Weathertech mats available with the dealer ?

~A
 






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