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2018 Explorer Speaker Install

Welcome to the Forum Chris. :wave:

Peter
 



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MM...……..

I have a 2018 Sport with SONY. Lately It feels like the speakers are fading in and out and even with system set to Surround it appears that the sound jumps and feels like it is coming out of the center front ONLY. Obviously I can't put my head to the door at highway speeds but when parked seems like the doors are putting out sound. Just seems to fade and eventually focuses to the center grille.

Having had Taurus before both with and without the SONY System it appears the common denominator of bad sound was the factory speakers. Appears that 2018 models are no exception. With the Taurus I swapped speakers out to Kenwood 6X8 and 3.5 for center grille and rear center deck. For the NON SONY Taurus I even managed to hang some rear decklid outer 6X8 since the cutouts were there. For power I tapped into the left and right rear doors.

Assuming that it is the speakers and even under warranty if I take it to dealer they are just going to replace with the same $7.99 speakers with the SONY Logo that they charge $100 for and will probably last until 36,001 miles...you get the idea.

Personally I would like to R/R speakers but in this case I want to make sure the steps are correctly understood.

My game plan 1. R/R Speakers Front and Rear door anyway, probably the center dash since if it is anything like the Taurus the steps should be pretty similar.

2. R/R AMP but not totally remove factory AMP, just bypass.

3. R/R Factory Subs if necessary.

4. Another option is to install a combination SUB/AMP under the drivers seat, the Kenwood one I had for the NON SONY Taurus worked great and was a very good start towards factory system improvement without a major investment. This would be to supplement/enhance factory SUB/AMP not replace. in addition to the speakers.

As a Side Note, I have a set of Pioneer TS-A6886R four way 6X8 350 watt speakers. I had them for a vehicle that I never got around to installing before trade in. I am looking for improved sound without a lot of cost but I drive enough to make it worth while especially with my two major east coast road trips a year and use of my B/T Sirius XM app...…"Road Trip Radio" anyone?

I understand that the Fronts will probably need a set of good Coaxial two way with separate tweeters for front.

Will the Pioneer TS-A886R be usable and decent for one of the rear sets. I only have two that are in immediate vicinity but if I find the other set will they work and be decent in either of the rear seating positions as in 2nd or 3rd row. I am way past return window and don't want to just give them away., I would rather use them for rears.

I like your Kickers and although I have had luck with Kenwood's in the past I also used Kicker for the front center and my friend had good review of his Kicker Combination SUB/AMP Combo for his Taurus and his 2018 Explorer Sport. Yes our Sports are not quite twins but only about two months apart for assembly and about two weeks apart for purchase. Identical in all aspects except for his Magnetic with bench second row and mine is Blue with Center Bucket seats and console.

Any input? Thanks for the kudos on the Taurus speaker install, the center dashboard grille looks intimidating but once you get a few ideas and see the set up not overly complicated. My Mistake was letting a shop do the first set of center dash.....(They removed WAY TO MUCH of the center dash plastic to get under and draw up retaining screw) but that's another story.
 






Just a small write up I just did. Not really a write-up, just a bunch of photos of the upgrade I did....maybe it'll help folks out.

 






Looking pretty good!

Another member here was looking for the factory sub ohm rating. Any chance you could throw a voltmeter on one of the sub voice coils?

I wouldn‘t worry much about watts. Typically a high wattage door speaker is just inefficient. I’m sure 50 real watts would blow that factory speaker out of its basket.
 






Looking pretty good!

Another member here was looking for the factory sub ohm rating. Any chance you could throw a voltmeter on one of the sub voice coils?

I wouldn‘t worry much about watts. Typically a high wattage door speaker is just inefficient. I’m sure 50 real watts would blow that factory speaker out of its basket.

I have to see if I still have the stock speakers laying around. I usually keep that stuff (I'm a pack rat). I think the ohm rating was printed on the back and I'm surprised I didn't take a pic of the back of it, lol. But I did this job about a year ago but just now posted the pix so it's been awhile.
 






Just joined to thank you for the write up. Ordering parts to do my 2019 Sport.

Went with Rockford P165-SI for the front and P1650 for the rear doors.

I am debating on doing the rear pillars and sub but I am stuck.

There are two options that I could go with but I am not sure what will work best with the stock Sony amp.

They are the Pioneer TS-A2000LD2 which is dual 2ohm coils and then there is the Kicker Comp 43CWRT81 which is dual 1ohm coils.

Which would work best with the stock amp? Or would I be better off doing the polyfill mod with the stock sub. Did you happen to notice what the ratings on the stock sub where?

How are you liking all the changes that you made?

Thanks. I wanted to document so it could help others.

If you are going to do the sub, do the pillars, you are already in there on one side anyway. That was my thinking.

I'm glad that I upgraded the amp and used the fill. The bass is much better in my opinion.

Here's the sub I used:

 






Just a small write up I just did. Not really a write-up, just a bunch of photos of the upgrade I did....maybe it'll help folks out.


Awesome job on yours!
 






I have to see if I still have the stock speakers laying around. I usually keep that stuff (I'm a pack rat). I think the ohm rating was printed on the back and I'm surprised I didn't take a pic of the back of it, lol. But I did this job about a year ago but just now posted the pix so it's been awhile.

I'll look at mine to see if there is anything on the old sub.
 












MM07 did you use any of the capacitors that were on the stock speakers and put them in the same places on the new speakers?
 






MM07 did you use any of the capacitors that were on the stock speakers and put them in the same places on the new speakers?
I know this question wasn't for me, but I used new capacitors as it was easier to wire them in. The stock ones don't have a long enough lead. I just read what the value was on the side of the existing capacitor and got the same one.
 






MM07 did you use any of the capacitors that were on the stock speakers and put them in the same places on the new speakers?

I did not. Maybe I didn't notice any? Or I didn't know what I was looking at?
 






MM...……..

I have a 2018 Sport with SONY. Lately It feels like the speakers are fading in and out and even with system set to Surround it appears that the sound jumps and feels like it is coming out of the center front ONLY. Obviously I can't put my head to the door at highway speeds but when parked seems like the doors are putting out sound. Just seems to fade and eventually focuses to the center grille.

Having had Taurus before both with and without the SONY System it appears the common denominator of bad sound was the factory speakers. Appears that 2018 models are no exception. With the Taurus I swapped speakers out to Kenwood 6X8 and 3.5 for center grille and rear center deck. For the NON SONY Taurus I even managed to hang some rear decklid outer 6X8 since the cutouts were there. For power I tapped into the left and right rear doors.

Assuming that it is the speakers and even under warranty if I take it to dealer they are just going to replace with the same $7.99 speakers with the SONY Logo that they charge $100 for and will probably last until 36,001 miles...you get the idea.

Personally I would like to R/R speakers but in this case I want to make sure the steps are correctly understood.

My game plan 1. R/R Speakers Front and Rear door anyway, probably the center dash since if it is anything like the Taurus the steps should be pretty similar.

2. R/R AMP but not totally remove factory AMP, just bypass.

3. R/R Factory Subs if necessary.

4. Another option is to install a combination SUB/AMP under the drivers seat, the Kenwood one I had for the NON SONY Taurus worked great and was a very good start towards factory system improvement without a major investment. This would be to supplement/enhance factory SUB/AMP not replace. in addition to the speakers.

As a Side Note, I have a set of Pioneer TS-A6886R four way 6X8 350 watt speakers. I had them for a vehicle that I never got around to installing before trade in. I am looking for improved sound without a lot of cost but I drive enough to make it worth while especially with my two major east coast road trips a year and use of my B/T Sirius XM app...…"Road Trip Radio" anyone?

I understand that the Fronts will probably need a set of good Coaxial two way with separate tweeters for front.

Will the Pioneer TS-A886R be usable and decent for one of the rear sets. I only have two that are in immediate vicinity but if I find the other set will they work and be decent in either of the rear seating positions as in 2nd or 3rd row. I am way past return window and don't want to just give them away., I would rather use them for rears.

I like your Kickers and although I have had luck with Kenwood's in the past I also used Kicker for the front center and my friend had good review of his Kicker Combination SUB/AMP Combo for his Taurus and his 2018 Explorer Sport. Yes our Sports are not quite twins but only about two months apart for assembly and about two weeks apart for purchase. Identical in all aspects except for his Magnetic with bench second row and mine is Blue with Center Bucket seats and console.

Any input? Thanks for the kudos on the Taurus speaker install, the center dashboard grille looks intimidating but once you get a few ideas and see the set up not overly complicated. My Mistake was letting a shop do the first set of center dash.....(They removed WAY TO MUCH of the center dash plastic to get under and draw up retaining screw) but that's another story.

I kept it simple because I am not technical enough for new amps, bypassing the Sony amp, etc...

Those 6x8's will fit in the rear doors.

I got components for the front so the tweeters would work well with the front speakers.

Basically my install was plug and play new speakers.

I am very happy with it still.

Also, too, I got all of my speakers through Crutchfield so I would get all the wiring harnesses and mounts that I needed (included).
 






Do you happen to remember the +/- on the d pillar speakers?

Using the Ford adapter is green positive and red negative? Or is it the other way around?
 












Found a pic of my sticky notes!

Brown/green stripe is +, Green is -

Then I soldered those to the adapter, Gray is +, gray/black stripe is -
 






In getting ready for my upgrade I noticed in the wiring diagram the rear pillars are running in parallel. Stock I believe they are 8 ohm speakers which would present a 4ohm load to the amp. If I use 2 4ohm speakers it would present a 2ohm load to the amp. Have you ( or anyone else) ran into issues with this? Would I be better off replacing the center speaker with one of my new 3.5" speakers and leaving the d pillars alone?(original plan was to disconnect the center channel)

Cheers,

Chris
 






I decided to just do them all. I wasn’t going to the the D pillars, but was going to do the sub upgrade. So I changed my mind.
 






Are the D pillar speakers and the center speaker all 6 ohms?

I see the marking for the center, but didn’t find much about the rear.
 



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The D pillars are 8 ohms (I actually took pics of them).

The center speaker is 6 ohms.
 






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