3.5 Ecoboost slow engine warmup

[Motoarzan]

Is it just me or does it take "forever" for the 3.5 ecoboost engine to warm up?
The past 2 winters I swear there's got to be a problem with the engine thermostat or something.
On a day where it's let say -10c (14 F). I can have the remote start running the vehicle for 10min first and then go for a drive half across town lets say 10k (6mil) or so through stop and go traffic and the temperature gauge on the dash still hasn't even reached it's midpoint/setpoint. This is all while having the inside air on recirc. and the fans on low robbing as little heat from the engine as possible.

For those in colder climates are you finding the warm up unusually slow as well?

Also, I have purchased a bluetooth OBD tool that I can plug in and display a live graph of the engine coolant temp on an iphone app. What I have found is the engine temperature setpoint tops out at around 87C (188F). Meaning the thermostat should stay closed and and not pull cooled fluid from the rad until it hits that setpoint.
However; as I drive and watch the graph of the engine warming up it seems to hesitate between 45-60C range, (113-145F)...in this zone you can actually see the graph level off for an extended period of time, the temperature even decreases a few degrees.
To me this is indicates the thermostat is opening prematurely and letting cold coolant in and holding the engine temperature steady and/or temporarily decreasing it.
This is even more significant on the coldest of days. I remember last year when it was around -20 the dash gauge got up about a 1/3 the way and then all of a sudden went "down" quite a bit to around the 1/4 mark...Eventually if you drive the vehicle long enough and as the rad coolant heats up the vehicle will reach it's normal operating temp and stay there but when it gets cold out it takes forever.

This winter has so far been mild but when it gets really cold out I'm going to post pics or a youtube video showing the temperature graph as the engine warms.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Junkmann2]

I have no idea what the thermostat temperature opening is set at on your car, however, your car should reach operating temperature within 5 minutes of starting. I would suggest that you consider putting a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator if possible, to block the incoming air, and see if it warms up sooner. If you can't use a piece of cardboard, then a heavy towel or a piece of cloth will do the trick. You can do this test in your driveway. It might be a problem with the automatic fan cycling on because of a defective thermostatic switch. To check this, if it is possible, disconnect the fan, and see if there is any improvement. This is the kind of problem that doesn't have a lot of variables, beyond the thermostat and the engine cooling fan.

 

[blwnsmoke]

The temp gauge is not a real gauge.. it is computer controlled and even when it says it is at it's normal temp, you can have a 40+ degree temp swing without it moving.

If you use your monitor, you will see just exactly what I'm talking about. Sitting outside idling for 5 minutes will not get it up to temp. 10 minutes of driving you should be up to or close to full temp.

 

[Exit32]

Is it just me or does it take "forever" for the 3.5 ecoboost engine to warm up?

It's not just you. I have also noticed how long it takes my EcoBoost engine to warm up enough to provide heat to the interior. I was thinking maybe it's because the entire engine is aluminum, but the 5.3-liter V8 in my Buick Rainier SUV is also made of aluminum, and it warms up in half the time the Explorer requires.

 

[Sgt1411]

Is it just me or does it take "forever" for the 3.5 ecoboost engine to warm up?
The past 2 winters I swear there's got to be a problem with the engine thermostat or something.
On a day where it's let say -10c (14 F). I can have the remote start running the vehicle for 10min first and then go for a drive half across town lets say 10k (6mil) or so through stop and go traffic and the temperature gauge on the dash still hasn't even reached it's midpoint/setpoint. This is all while having the inside air on recirc. and the fans on low robbing as little heat from the engine as possible.

For those in colder climates are you finding the warm up unusually slow as well?

Also, I have purchased a bluetooth OBD tool that I can plug in and display a live graph of the engine coolant temp on an iphone app. What I have found is the engine temperature setpoint tops out at around 87C (188F). Meaning the thermostat should stay closed and and not pull cooled fluid from the rad until it hits that setpoint.
However; as I drive and watch the graph of the engine warming up it seems to hesitate between 45-60C range, (113-145F)...in this zone you can actually see the graph level off for an extended period of time, the temperature even decreases a few degrees.
To me this is indicates the thermostat is opening prematurely and letting cold coolant in and holding the engine temperature steady and/or temporarily decreasing it.
This is even more significant on the coldest of days. I remember last year when it was around -20 the dash gauge got up about a 1/3 the way and then all of a sudden went "down" quite a bit to around the 1/4 mark...Eventually if you drive the vehicle long enough and as the rad coolant heats up the vehicle will reach it's normal operating temp and stay there but when it gets cold out it takes forever.

This winter has so far been mild but when it gets really cold out I'm going to post pics or a youtube video showing the temperature graph as the engine warms.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Would it make a difference if you used the engine block heater and plugged it in overnight?

 

[Motoarzan]

Would it make a difference if you used the engine block heater and plugged it in overnight?

Yep, I do use the block heater.
Normally it takes forever to warm up. When I use the block heater it takes..."almost" forever.
When the weather gets colder I'll connect my Bluetooth OBD tool and take a video showing the graph and warmup time.

 

[WayneonLI]

It's not just you. I have also noticed how long it takes my EcoBoost engine to warm up enough to provide heat to the interior. I was thinking maybe it's because the entire engine is aluminum, but the 5.3-liter V8 in my Buick Rainier SUV is also made of aluminum, and it warms up in half the time the Explorer requires.

Of all the Fords in my life that I've owned and driven, as well as the GMs, Ford takes the longest to warm up. I don't know why that is. In my GM, my car would be "off the Cold mark" on the gauge when I reach the exit to my complex. The GM van I drove for work was similarly "off Cold" very quickly.

All the Fords I've driven and owned I have to drive about two miles or so more before it comes "off Cold." Not a big deal, just thought it interesting. With the remote start in the Ex, I can't tell you how long it takes to rise.

And by "off Cold," what I mean is the gauge is rising away from the stone cold position. That's when I usually turn on the heat as the engine is no longer cold, but I am. Lol.

 

[bigdude2468]

I find my 2014 3.5 liter NA warm up to be quite fast. I guess I don't know why the turbo version would take longer even if the Ecoboost has a larger cooling system. I have a scan gauge I use on occasion and it shows coolant temperature and I can tell exactly when the thermostat opens. Our 2012 Dodge Caravan takes forever to warm up but the Exp is a lot faster. I think expecting the vehicle to reach full operating temp in the winter with just idling and a short drive is expecting a lot. I would forget blocking the radiator, until the thermostat opens it will make little difference. BTW, when I have used the block heater there is just a a faint amount of heat upon start up. Maybe I m wrong but IMO the block heater is designed to aid start up, keep oil viscous, not have instant heat.

 

[Motoarzan]

On a typical winter day lets say -10c/14F, I remote start the car for at least 5min and then drive for 15min straight through the city (exactly 15min to the office), and the temp gauge when I arrive is still only about 1/4-1/3 the way up. The air coming from the vents at that time is only warm, not hot and still insufficient to warm me up or defrost the windows properly.
And don't get me started on the balance of how the heat is distributed from the vents. You'd think that when the setting is for heat to come from the front vents & the floor together that it would be 50/50....more like 90/10 and your feet freeze unless you change setting to floor only!

 

[bigdude2468]

To get an accurate diagnosis you need to know what the coolant temp is. Relying on the instrument gauge tells you very little. I have a Scan Gauge which will tell you exact operating temp, voltage, pulls codes / clears codes, plus about 10 other functions. You need to know what the temperature is and when the thermostat opens. If you find the thermostat staying closed until it reaches operating temp then it is what it is. Maybe someone on here can tell you what the thermostat temp is or call any auto parts store.

You can get a Scan Gauge direct for $169, plugs into any OBD port and you can leave it plugged in all the time.

 

[Motoarzan]

To get an accurate diagnosis you need to know what the coolant temp is. Relying on the instrument gauge tells you very little. I have a Scan Gauge which will tell you exact operating temp, voltage, pulls codes / clears codes, plus about 10 other functions. You need to know what the temperature is and when the thermostat opens. If you find the thermostat staying closed until it reaches operating temp then it is what it is. Maybe someone on here can tell you what the thermostat temp is or call any auto parts store.

You can get a Scan Gauge direct for $169, plugs into any OBD port and you can leave it plugged in all the time.

I do. I have an OBD scan tool with Bluetooth. And an iPhone app to display dozens of readings and scan codes. I click can click on and display an actual temperature readout and analog real time graph of engine coolant temp only.
At about 62C, and on a really cold day, the temperature and graph will actually "decrease" for a little bit indicating the thermostat is prematurely opening and letting in freezing cold coolant from the rad. After a while of decreasing in temp or holding steady, it will eventually start increasing again to its regular set point of 85-87deg Celcius.

 

[bigdude2468]

So, it appears the thermostat is opening prematurely. I guess knowing that why not change it?

 

[Junkmann2]

This problem is basic automotive repair 101. If the engine isn't getting to temperature quickly, as all modern engines are designed to do, there are very few possibilities, non of which will require a scan tool to diagnose. The three possibilities are 1) the engine is very low on coolant. 2) the thermostat is sticking open, or is not closing properly as designed. 3) the cooling fan is engaging prematurely. We can rule out number 1, because if it was that low on coolant, by now, the engine would be damaged beyond repair. 2) That is most likely the culprit, and the simple test that I described above will answer that question. 3) you can easily determine using visual and auditory method. Now, I have no idea this isn't perfectly clear to anyone that has worked on automobile engines in the past. No matter how sophisticated the tools, they are only as good as the knowledge base that is used. This very problem has presented itself ever since thermostats were first used in water cooled engines.

 

[Exit32]

This problem is basic automotive repair 101. If the engine isn't getting to temperature quickly, as all modern engines are designed to do, there are very few possibilities, non of which will require a scan tool to diagnose. The three possibilities are 1) the engine is very low on coolant. 2) the thermostat is sticking open, or is not closing properly as designed. 3) the cooling fan is engaging prematurely. We can rule out number 1, because if it was that low on coolant, by now, the engine would be damaged beyond repair. 2) That is most likely the culprit, and the simple test that I described above will answer that question. 3) you can easily determine using visual and auditory method. Now, I have no idea this isn't perfectly clear to anyone that has worked on automobile engines in the past. No matter how sophisticated the tools, they are only as good as the knowledge base that is used. This very problem has presented itself ever since thermostats were first used in water cooled engines.

I agree with Junkmann2 that the slow-warmup issue is most likely caused by a defective thermostat. But if this issue is happening to multiple EcoBoost Explorers, does it imply a bad batch of thermostats installed at the factory? Is there anyone out there with an EcoBoost Explorer that warms up quickly?

 

[Chevitz]

Mine warms up quickly enough, but the climate control doesn't turn on quickly enough. If I take it out of auto, I can get warm air. If I switch back the fan turns off till the engine is really warm.

 

[Junkmann2]

I have a '16 Sport with the Ecoboost engine, and it seems to warm up quickly, but so far, we have been blessed with warm weather. Once it gets cold, I will be able to tell better, and since we also have a '16 Limited, I can compare the two to see if one warms up faster than the other.
The one variable that I didn't think of until I was physically comparing the two cars today, is that the Ecoboost engine might have a different thermostat in it, than the non turbo engine. Today, I noticed that my Sport takes 5W-30 oil, and that the Limited takes 5W-20 oil.

Just thinking out loud here... I wonder if the water hoses for the heater come off the engine or the radiator. If they come off the radiator, they would be bypassing the thermostat, and hence the coolant would be colder than the engine temperature coolant. If it were extremely cold, unless there was something to hold the heat in the radiator, the coolant temperature in the heater core would never be close to the coolant inside the engine. Once again, I come back to the thought of partially blocking some of the radiator, and seeing if the heater performs better. Give this a try before messing with the thermostat, since it will take only a few minutes, and it might correct the problem. Let us know, and in the meantime, I will do some more investigation on how the heater is connected to the system.

 

[Exit32]

Online searches indicate that Ford uses the same thermostat in both EcoBoost and normally-aspirated V6 Explorers. The Ford part number is 1X4Z-8575-A. Looks like it's a 190-degree thermostat.

 

[Motoarzan]

Everything else on the vehicle is in perfect working order. This slow warmup has been this way for going on 3 winters now and bugging the crap out of me...especially since I've decided I'll keep the vehicle and pass it down to my wife.
last winter I mentioned this to the service manager and he dismissed it and said it was normal...that if the engine weren't warming on it's proper curve that the computer would sense it and throw an error code.
I don't believe this! because thermostats are "passive" devices...they are not electrically actuated with control and with "analog" feedback telling the computer the realtime position...the thermostat itself can't output a code based on it's function.
The problem is I literally have 2500km left on my 60k bumper to bumper warranty. The dealer will not do any warranty work unless you can "prove" there is a problem!
On a really cold day the gage reading is more significant. i.e the gauge will rise to about 1/3 the way up and then actually decrease to about 1/4...sometime as low as 1/5 the way up from the bottom if it's really, really cold. Then over time with more driving and and cold rad fluid slowly mixing it will eventually get up to regular operating temperature.
It's been a mild winter but as soon as we get a -10C day I'm going to tuck my cellphone on the instrument cluster beside the temp gage, with the live graph from running from the bluetooth OBD tool and then go for a drive and video record the complete warm up. Hopefully this will be enough for the dealer to believe me.
The clock is ticking 2500km or a really cold day to prove this.

 

[Junkmann2]

.................
last winter I mentioned this to the service manager and he dismissed it and said it was normal...that if the engine weren't warming on it's proper curve that the computer would sense it and throw an error code.
.......................
The problem is I literally have 2500km left on my 60k bumper to bumper warranty. The dealer will not do any warranty work unless you can "prove" there is a problem!
On a really cold day the gage reading is more significant. i.e the gauge will rise to about 1/3 the way up and then actually decrease to about 1/4...sometime as low as 1/5 the way up from the bottom if it's really, really cold. Then over time with more driving and and cold rad fluid slowly mixing it will eventually get up to regular operating temperature.
.............

You need to push this problem, since your car is almost out of warranty, and you have been suffering / complaining about it for multiple winters. I would place a call to Ford of Canada, and have them open a case on it, so it is documented. Then I would find another Ford dealer to fix the problem.
This morning when I left the house, it was 28 degrees (F) outside, and in less than 5 minutes, I had all the heat that was necessary to warm the passenger compartment. I also use the rear heat feature, and the car was very comfortable within 10 minutes. I keep the heat set at 68 (F), except when traveling with my wife, who believes that if it isn't at least 75, it is freezing in the car.
I would suggest that if you take it back to the dealership that has refused to service the problem, that you should go directly there, turn off the car, and then invite the service writer to take a ride with you. Ask him to leave his coat in the shop, so he can "feel" the cold. This will get his attention, along with the call to Ford Corporate. If you have documentation of the complaint, copy those records, and ask Corporate if there is a number, where you can fax them to. Stand your ground, and don't give in. You have been much more patient with this problem than most people would have been. No need to get nasty, but make sure to fully state the problem, and push for a resolution to the problem. The squeaky wheel gets the grease.

 

[SHUMAX]

I've been keeping an eye on mine now, too. 2014 Sport with 38k. Today it was 34 degrees outside. Not cold, but not warm either. The garage was 50 degrees. I remote started and let it run 8min. I came out and it was blowing warm air. I drove a mile and the air was now hot and the gauge was almost to it's normal operating temperature.

I appreciate it's not zero degrees outside; however, I would also say my car is warming quicker than the original posters vehicle. It sounds to me that the thermostat is sticking open on the vehicle.

Shumax