331 getting the drop in my 98 AWD (lots pics) | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums
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331 getting the drop in my 98 AWD (lots pics)

2000StreetRod said:
Is your 331 configured for the Mustang 28 oz external balance like most stroker kits? If so, what are your plans to obtain the required external balance with a trigger wheel for the fuel injection? The stock Explorer balancer with trigger wheel has 50 oz external balance.
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it is balanced 50oz. :D wouldn't of done it the other way.
 



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using stock flexplate & balancer

I looked thru your other thread and I think I see what Coast High Perf did but I'd like you to confirm it. They drilled the crankshaft counterweights out to allow you to use the stock Explorer flexplate and harmonic balancer. Did they express any concerns about removing that much metal from the crank? Did they advise you of any reduced performance enhancements because of the drilled counterweights?
 






2000StreetRod said:
I looked thru your other thread and I think I see what Coast High Perf did but I'd like you to confirm it. They drilled the crankshaft counterweights out to allow you to use the stock Explorer flexplate and harmonic balancer. Did they express any concerns about removing that much metal from the crank? Did they advise you of any reduced performance enhancements because of the drilled counterweights?
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No, actually they waived the fee for it. And yes they drilled out the crank for a traditional 302 balance. Nothing was discussed as far as any future issues. And as far as any performance issues.. i will let the dyno confirm or deny all that internet talk in the coming months. And remember, the thing isn't spinning anything over 5500 at ANY given time.

shortblock is in with a few more pics. http://www.socalterminators.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17173&page=5

will get heavy with the pics once i get my heads back from port.
 






nothing new. my heads are almost finished getting ported with all new hardware. Can't wait!! GO GIANTS!!!
 












OK... i reframed from throwing things today. I am not an electrical guru but i know the basics. Anyways, motor is in...installed new air filter and spark plugs this morning, and thats all i needed to fire the motor up. So i decide to be sure i have fuel psi before i start cranking on a brand new motor. key on key off maybe 50 times over all through the 2 hours troubleshoot procedure. Swapped the fuel pump relay out with others, no fuel pump heard with key on..even had help...had one turn key.. had my ear damn near plastered to the tank..nothing. The fuel pump should hummm intially right??? all my mustangs did. The explorer sat for 1.5 years with the dissentegrated motor. Keep in mind it sitting in the HOT southwest sun last summer untouched. (temps in the 1-teens, rivaling iraq) Wonder if the fuel pump went bye bye. The fuel pump was fine before....hell, it fired up with a rod completely disconnected from a piston, sounded like ass tho. This weekend i will check voltage at the connection on top of the fuel tank and try to jump a hot right there on the connector to the fuel pump...if its possible. I do not recall if i have checked/swapped/trouble shot the PCM relay but i will try that tonight when i get out my transmission class. Not a difficult job to replace the pump but i was ready to roll with the new motor today. The CHILTON shows how to test the fuel pump thru the VIP connection (???) or something like that...have no clue where that is. Any help would be loved.... thanks!

I do have all the pics of the motor install but i want to fire the thing up first so i can add all the pics in one shot. peace
 






go back to the fuel pump connector-it should be behind the tank near the emmissions box area.

You will need to probe for the 11v fuel pump signal, but beware it will only be present for the 3 second "priming" cycle.

You might want to have a helper turn the key on and off for you, unless you can get a set of leads long enough to reach to the cabin
 






yea, I am thinking of making a cut on the floor pan above where the fuel pump is and do it that way... i will get knee deep in this again on saturday maybe. I will also take my dead blow hammer and bang on the bottom of the tank to see if by chance the pump froze or stuck. Sounds dumb but who knows. thanks

Turdle said:
go back to the fuel pump connector-it should be behind the tank near the emmissions box area.

You will need to probe for the 11v fuel pump signal, but beware it will only be present for the 3 second "priming" cycle.

You might want to have a helper turn the key on and off for you, unless you can get a set of leads long enough to reach to the cabin
Click to expand...
 






replace fuel & tap the tank

I bought a Volvo that sat for about 1 1/2 years. The fuel smelled like lacquer instead of gasoline and would not burn. I suggest that you drain the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter before attempting to start the engine.

If the pump sits for a long time it may not run. Some members have had luck with tapping the tank in the vicinity of the pump to jar it loose. If you want the pump to be reliable you probably should remove it and clean it and the screen.
 












Fuel pump arrived yesterday... it is installed in the housing and dropped it in the tank and bolted down. The only thing i had to grind was the bottom of the housing that the fuel pump sits on.. the outlet was a larger diameter... not by much... 1/16 of an inch at the most... dremel took care of that.. the slicing and shrink tubing worked perfect. install friday and turn key, HOPEFULLY
 












Was in Pennsylvania all of last week... removed the 1.72 roller rockers (cobra style) and bolted on stock rockers. awaiting new upper intake gasket... again.. the new one only lasted one use. Anyways.. can't wait to get it fired back up with less rocker noise..
 












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