3D Printed First Gen parts

[Turdle]

Years ago Jon was able to have Explorer Forum license plate frames custom made. I don't know if he could get them anymore. Your machine is large enough to print them. Maybe some members might be interested?

We have plenty. Serious.

 

[BrooklynBay]

What about using a DC to DC 12 volt to 15 volt converter for the bulbs?

 

[~X~]

What about using a DC to DC 12 volt to 15 volt converter for the bulbs?

Brilliant!

I found a unit on Amazon, 12 to 15 volts and 10 amp capacity. I'll get one after Christmas & let you know how it works. Thank you for the tip, I never knew this part even existed.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Get the version with the waterproof aluminum housing instead of the non waterproof plastic housing.

 

[~X~]

Get the version with the waterproof aluminum housing instead of the non waterproof plastic housing.

All good, thank you.
Don't want to turn this into a headlight thread.

 

[fabianoliver]

Those parts came out nice.

My biggest wish is front armrests/door pulls. I think it would need a pretty good size printer, or maybe make interlocking parts? It's on my list if I ever get a printer.

Hi, the front ones are on ebay, but the rear ones, impossible to find......

 

[MrQ]

For Sale thread with available printed parts: For Sale - 3D Printed Parts for 1st Gen

 

[MrQ]

Current prototype project. 3D printed third brake light lens. Lens is red tinted clear PETG, housing is ABS.

 

[DaSovietPotato]

I had no idea that one could order translucent PETG.

 

[MrQ]

Translucent PETG is pretty cool, however you have to run it pretty hot, slow, and thin to get it transparent.

 

[joney]

What about using a DC to DC 12 volt to 15 volt converter for the bulbs?

Can that be used with a stock alternator and stock halogen bulb setup? I've ordered new headlamp assemblies from Rock Auto for my '98 with the dim yellow lenses.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Yes, you don't need a special alternator.

Another trick to get it translucent is to use a larger nozzle. You will have to modify your printing profile to fine tune the speed, temperature, layer height, wall thickness, and nozzle size. PETG strings easily on large parts with a lot of long abrupt movements. ABS warps easily if it's not being used in a closed, heat controlled enclosure. There are various types of bed adhesives to minimize warping.

 

[BKennedy]

The custom auto fabricators love 3d printers. Now, they can dream it, and then print it.

 

[MrQ]

Yes, you don't need a special alternator.

Another trick to get it translucent is to use a larger nozzle. You will have to modify your printing profile to fine tune the speed, temperature, layer height, wall thickness, and nozzle size. PETG strings easily on large parts with a lot of long abrupt movements. ABS warps easily if it's not being used in a closed, heat controlled enclosure. There are various types of bed adhesives to minimize warping.

Correct, which is why I use a .6mm nozzle. If you dry your filament (PETG is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture pretty quickly.), set your coast and retraction you can get the stringing down considerably in short runs. You can also run PETG a little colder and it'll help with stringing too, but you loose strength in layer adhesion.

I run the ABS in a tent at 285c nozzle and 100c bed temp.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I'm on a couple of 3D printing forums. Somebody suggested using XTC-3D on PETG lenses to make them clear, smooth, and shiny. I saw some video clips showing how it made PETG parts clear when they looked like waxed paper after they were printed. I haven't tried it yet but it's something to look into.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

I'm on a couple of 3D printing forums. Somebody suggested using XTC-3D on PETG lenses to make them clear, smooth, and shiny. I saw some video clips showing how it made PETG parts clear when they looked like waxed paper after they were printed. I haven't tried it yet but it's something to look into.

I'm casting the lenses. But only the lenses. The bezels can be re used for years to come. that reflective coating requires reapplication on all about now though.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I thought that the lenses were printed with translucent red PETG?

 

[Flashflood]

Any plans to do door panel grab handles. Since ours are so fragile.

 

[MrQ]

Those should be pretty straightforward.

 

[motohobo]

Those parts came out nice.

My biggest wish is front armrests/door pulls. I think it would need a pretty good size printer, or maybe make interlocking parts? It's on my list if I ever get a printer.

I'm pretty good at designing and printing parts, but I ended up just cutting a new armrest out of 3/4 inch hardwood plywood I had lying around. It took about 2 hours start to finish. It would have taken much more than that to design and print this part and would have used probably close to a roll of filament. I ended up just pulling off the existing remnants of the armrest, tracing it out on the wood and cutting. Sometimes it's best just to grab the jigsaw...

This week I also made a door hinge pin retainer clip because I didn't trust the aftermarket generic ones and didn't feel like paying and waiting for something that may or may not fit. My creation ended up looking nothing like the OEM part and may even be robuster, but it took at least a couple hours to get a design that worked. I've also made a blower knob, a liftgate actuator, and believe it or not, a front wheel spindle socket that actually worked since the nut is so big and is just barely more than hand-tightened. I've made dozens of parts for things around the office, house, garage, motorcycles. Most of the time it's because I can't find things for purchase that meet my particular spec. I use Fusion 360 for design because it's free for hobbyists. But having said that, you better have some time to waste because designing and printing useful parts is a pretty involved skill.