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3D Printed First Gen parts

Years ago Jon was able to have Explorer Forum license plate frames custom made. I don't know if he could get them anymore. Your machine is large enough to print them. Maybe some members might be interested?
We have plenty. Serious.
 



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What about using a DC to DC 12 volt to 15 volt converter for the bulbs?
Brilliant!

I found a unit on Amazon, 12 to 15 volts and 10 amp capacity. I'll get one after Christmas & let you know how it works. Thank you for the tip, I never knew this part even existed.
 












Get the version with the waterproof aluminum housing instead of the non waterproof plastic housing.
All good, thank you.
Don't want to turn this into a headlight thread.
 






Those parts came out nice.:chug:

My biggest wish is front armrests/door pulls. I think it would need a pretty good size printer, or maybe make interlocking parts? It's on my list if I ever get a printer.
Hi, the front ones are on ebay, but the rear ones, impossible to find......
 












Current prototype project. 3D printed third brake light lens. Lens is red tinted clear PETG, housing is ABS.

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I had no idea that one could order translucent PETG.
 






Translucent PETG is pretty cool, however you have to run it pretty hot, slow, and thin to get it transparent.
 






What about using a DC to DC 12 volt to 15 volt converter for the bulbs?
Can that be used with a stock alternator and stock halogen bulb setup? I've ordered new headlamp assemblies from Rock Auto for my '98 with the dim yellow lenses.
 






Yes, you don't need a special alternator.

Another trick to get it translucent is to use a larger nozzle. You will have to modify your printing profile to fine tune the speed, temperature, layer height, wall thickness, and nozzle size. PETG strings easily on large parts with a lot of long abrupt movements. ABS warps easily if it's not being used in a closed, heat controlled enclosure. There are various types of bed adhesives to minimize warping.
 












Yes, you don't need a special alternator.

Another trick to get it translucent is to use a larger nozzle. You will have to modify your printing profile to fine tune the speed, temperature, layer height, wall thickness, and nozzle size. PETG strings easily on large parts with a lot of long abrupt movements. ABS warps easily if it's not being used in a closed, heat controlled enclosure. There are various types of bed adhesives to minimize warping.
Correct, which is why I use a .6mm nozzle. If you dry your filament (PETG is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture pretty quickly.), set your coast and retraction you can get the stringing down considerably in short runs. You can also run PETG a little colder and it'll help with stringing too, but you loose strength in layer adhesion.

I run the ABS in a tent at 285c nozzle and 100c bed temp.
 






I'm on a couple of 3D printing forums. Somebody suggested using XTC-3D on PETG lenses to make them clear, smooth, and shiny. I saw some video clips showing how it made PETG parts clear when they looked like waxed paper after they were printed. I haven't tried it yet but it's something to look into.
 






I'm on a couple of 3D printing forums. Somebody suggested using XTC-3D on PETG lenses to make them clear, smooth, and shiny. I saw some video clips showing how it made PETG parts clear when they looked like waxed paper after they were printed. I haven't tried it yet but it's something to look into.
I'm casting the lenses. But only the lenses. The bezels can be re used for years to come. that reflective coating requires reapplication on all about now though.
 












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