JonathanExp
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- August 26, 2018
- Messages
- 34
- Reaction score
- 23
- City, State
- USA living in AUS
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 explorer limited
here are my pics and write up for a 3rd gen roof rack with integrated wiring and lights setup.
i used a rola roof cargo basket (from etrailer) with the extension. i selected it in part because of the aesthetics and it fits nicely on top of the roof rails. i wish it was not so heavy but i generally feel comfortable carrying what i need. a CB/UHF radio antenna mount and fuel tank mounts were welded on the rack and the rack was re-powder coated. i installed a 32" curved led light bar up front which fits the curve of the roof rack, 50 watt led lights on the sides, and 30 watt led lights on the rear. the lights are held on with Nilight mounting brackets. i wired the rack with heavy duty plug and socket garden light extension cables because i wanted weather proof connectors so i can remove everything without disrupting the wiring through the roof. the wire goes through the roof using wire cable glands/grommets. i use a pelican cargo box, wavian fuel tank gear, rola gas bottle holder, and a yakima spare tire carrier mount. i also installed an 8 gang switch panel which unfortunately has proven to be unreliable.
if i could do things differently, i would have purchased a more reliable/expensive switch panel, i would like more forward angle from the side mounted lights, maybe i would opt for a lighter rack but i did not find others at the time that i liked.
enjoy
test fitting everything
i chose to reinforce the factory roof rail mounting locations under the roof in part because i was going to be at the factory recommended weight limit while driving on rough roads. i am not sure if it is really necessary but i plan to travel days away from the nearest help. it goes without saying when you take off the headliner you will be exposing the side airbags so stick to the factory recommendations when you are working near them and/or seek professional help.
i wanted to hide the wiring by running it through the roof railing then through the railing mount then through the roof. this is the first step to create a hole in the bottom of the plastic mount. the hole should be a little bigger than your cable gland/grommet.
next i needed to drill into the metal rail at an angle.
this is why i drilled it at an angle, to get into the right chamber.
wire and cable gland test fit
mark out the center
the hardest part of the job! after you gain the courage to drill a hole in your roof, double check everything and give it a go. helps to predrill the hole with a smaller bit. i put blocking on the underside as well to drill against. remember to paint the metal and allow it to dry to spec. i drilled two holes on each side so that i could control the front, side, and rear lights independently and to wire the antenna.
glands installed. i think i used a gutter/roofing sealant but i do not recall exactly. i probably would ask a car window repair shop next time for their recommendation. but it works. no leaks.
wires installed and ready to install the roof rails.
sealed up
all the wiring heads to the passenger side rear panel area for the control box. protect the wires well with loom, tape, and zip ties.
control box location on the left. relays to tie the front and side led lights in with the high beams. see my write up on my 3rd Gen Rear 12v/120v Power Panel for more info on what i did back there.
loaded up. i wrapped all of my wires with loom and tape and used lots of zip ties. note the roof rack bracket under the light on the left side of the picture. you can see it better with the last picture.
i had the local metal shop fabricate three brackets to attach the side awning.
the metal shop also made custom U shaped brackets that wrap around the railing and bottom of the rack and pinch together with two bolts on the inside.
i used a rola roof cargo basket (from etrailer) with the extension. i selected it in part because of the aesthetics and it fits nicely on top of the roof rails. i wish it was not so heavy but i generally feel comfortable carrying what i need. a CB/UHF radio antenna mount and fuel tank mounts were welded on the rack and the rack was re-powder coated. i installed a 32" curved led light bar up front which fits the curve of the roof rack, 50 watt led lights on the sides, and 30 watt led lights on the rear. the lights are held on with Nilight mounting brackets. i wired the rack with heavy duty plug and socket garden light extension cables because i wanted weather proof connectors so i can remove everything without disrupting the wiring through the roof. the wire goes through the roof using wire cable glands/grommets. i use a pelican cargo box, wavian fuel tank gear, rola gas bottle holder, and a yakima spare tire carrier mount. i also installed an 8 gang switch panel which unfortunately has proven to be unreliable.
if i could do things differently, i would have purchased a more reliable/expensive switch panel, i would like more forward angle from the side mounted lights, maybe i would opt for a lighter rack but i did not find others at the time that i liked.
enjoy
test fitting everything
i chose to reinforce the factory roof rail mounting locations under the roof in part because i was going to be at the factory recommended weight limit while driving on rough roads. i am not sure if it is really necessary but i plan to travel days away from the nearest help. it goes without saying when you take off the headliner you will be exposing the side airbags so stick to the factory recommendations when you are working near them and/or seek professional help.
i wanted to hide the wiring by running it through the roof railing then through the railing mount then through the roof. this is the first step to create a hole in the bottom of the plastic mount. the hole should be a little bigger than your cable gland/grommet.
next i needed to drill into the metal rail at an angle.
this is why i drilled it at an angle, to get into the right chamber.
wire and cable gland test fit
mark out the center
the hardest part of the job! after you gain the courage to drill a hole in your roof, double check everything and give it a go. helps to predrill the hole with a smaller bit. i put blocking on the underside as well to drill against. remember to paint the metal and allow it to dry to spec. i drilled two holes on each side so that i could control the front, side, and rear lights independently and to wire the antenna.
glands installed. i think i used a gutter/roofing sealant but i do not recall exactly. i probably would ask a car window repair shop next time for their recommendation. but it works. no leaks.
wires installed and ready to install the roof rails.
sealed up
all the wiring heads to the passenger side rear panel area for the control box. protect the wires well with loom, tape, and zip ties.
control box location on the left. relays to tie the front and side led lights in with the high beams. see my write up on my 3rd Gen Rear 12v/120v Power Panel for more info on what i did back there.
loaded up. i wrapped all of my wires with loom and tape and used lots of zip ties. note the roof rack bracket under the light on the left side of the picture. you can see it better with the last picture.
i had the local metal shop fabricate three brackets to attach the side awning.
the metal shop also made custom U shaped brackets that wrap around the railing and bottom of the rack and pinch together with two bolts on the inside.
