4.6L Explorer engine timing chain ooops!

[Number4]

Count the links on either side of the timing marks. If there are more links on one side, then it's 'jumped.' It can be tricky to count, so do it a couple of times.

 

[mtthompson777]

So, not counting the link that's centered on the cam gear, I'll count down to which point on the crank gear?

 

[mtthompson777]

Guessing the hole on crank gear

 

[Number4]

Guessing the hole on crank gear

One dimple on the crank gear and then two dimples on each cam gear.

 

[2000StreetRod]

camshaft timing

There are timing marks on both camshaft sprockets and both crankshaft sprockets. The crankshaft sprockets are behind the crankshaft sensor ring. With piston 1 at TDC the timing marks should be as shown below.

Make sure the key in the camshaft sprockets is below the axis of the camshaft. If it is above then the crankshaft must be rotated 360 degrees.
Do not rotate the crankshaft with the chains disconnected or the chain guides removed. The SOHC is an interference engine.
A in the drawing indicates the copper links in the chains. I couldn't find any copper links on my DOHC V8. If you can't find them on your SOHC then count the number of links from the link below the timing mark (small circle) in the crankshaft sprocket in both directions to the link above the mark on the camshaft sprocket. The number of links in each direction should be equal for both chains.

 

[mtthompson777]

Count the links on either side of the timing marks. If there are more links on one side, then it's 'jumped.' It can be tricky to count, so do it a couple of times.

I've counted 28 links on both sides, top and bottom. I'm wondering how it could be any differnt though. Since one side is a straight line from gear to gear. How could there be more links or less than what the straight line allows?

 

[2000StreetRod]

when chain slips

When one of the chains slips on a sprocket one of the camshafts will retard relative to the crankshaft. When that happens the mid point of the chain will no longer coincide with timing mark on the sprocket.

 

[Number4]

What he ^^^ said. If off, when counting between the "dots," one side of the chain will have more links than the other.

 

[mtthompson777]

It clicked yesterday afternoon. I'm not sure why I couldn't grasp the idea that if the chain jumped or slipped, the cam position would change along with the timing mark, making the number of links between the marks uneven. It was definately a duh moment.
Picking up the parts today and will be chipping away at it until Saturday when I'll have the whole day to finish it. There are two different timing cover gaskets for my year. A pre 2/22/04 enigine build date and post. The MFD sticker on driver's door is 02/04, so I'm thiniking I should go with the pre 2/22/04 gasket. Thanks again for all your help guys!

 

[Number4]

A trick for the power steering pump to keep you from having to undo the line and drain the fluid.

Remove the two bolts accessible via the wheel well.
Break loose the bolt blocked by the power steering line.
With one hand, support the PS pump so it's not sitting on the bolt, then you should be able to unscrew the bolt with only your finger.
Just keep moving the pump away from the block as the bolt approaches the line.

If the pump sits on the bolt too much (ie not being properly supported at the right angle) then you may need to use a wrench. Just keep pulling the pump away from the block to allow the bolt to come out.

 

[mtthompson777]

Yep, I did that last weekend, it took a minute to figure out. What got me was the washer on the harmonic balancer. I didn't realize there was a washer and thought it was part of the balancer. So for a couple of hours and a couple of pullers I was pulling it against itself until finally when taking a puller off, the washer fell off. Also, on the water pump pully I ended up using a 20" $7 chain wrench from Harbor Freight to remove the fan. Worked great. I did end up fitting the car in my garage, but even with a heater going it's in the 20's in there. Got the new parts put on last night, and dropped the oil filter adaptor since it's been leaking like a siv for months. Seemed like the perfiect time to change that gasket. Planning to have it running by tomorrow.

 

[mtthompson777]

Gasket kit came with a cam hole gasket attached to a metal ring. I'm wondering if I should replace. Is it difficult to press in? Also a small o-ring. Does that go over the crank shaft? I can't think of anywhere else it would go.

 

[mtthompson777]

Got it put back together this afternoon and she started. The knock is gone but it's chugging like it was before I started this. I was almost hoping the chain had jumped a link to explain it running rough. No codes and it sounds kind of like a diesel at idle and a loud tick while driving. Any thoughts? I'll search this site tomorrow for info. Thanks for all the help!

 

[2000StreetRod]

dry lash adjusters?

I don't know about the 4.6L but on my 4.0L the oil can drain out of the hydraulic lash adjusters resulting in valve clatter until the adjusters pressurize. It can take about 30 minutes of driving at engine mid-range for the adjusters to pressurize.

 

[4x4Ex]

This is a great thread. It is long and veers off course a little at times, but it helped me a lot. Also, look at YouTube videos to get an idea of what's up.

I just did this repair and so wanted to share my experience. I wrote it in another thread over here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3382499#post3382499

Thanks to many, and good luck to others!

 

[20EddieBauer02]

Just changed my oil. Metal shavings came out. Motor rips, front loud knock, been there since 70k and has progressively gotten worse over time, I'm at 152k now. Ran penzoil 10w30 for 50k and have ran Mobil 1 10w 30 synthetic the last 50k.

 

[Toucan]

Got back my X yesterday (after 17days )

Aesthetically it looks dam good. The whole engine bay and parts are immaculately clean and the engine block itself looks like it just came from factory, no corrosion, stains etc.


BUT - there is an annoying knocking sound coming from the engine. Like when tappets are bad (which they are not). Once you run the engine for a good 10 to 15 minutes it stops. The mechanic says that if it does not stop doing this to bring it back. Now I could have left it and tell him FIX IT, but decided to take it home less than a mile away. No other sound coming from front or back of engine.

All chains, plastic parts broken or not, were changed on both sides. Water pump and ALL gaskets and externally visible seals were replaced at a cost of Belize $763.18 US$381.59 plus US$275.00 labour cost. Total US$656.59. Not a bad price BUT I did not pay to have my engine start knocking.

He says he did make sure crankshaft "keyway" was properly aligned and that the 1 piston was at TDC highest position.

Can someone throw some light on why this is now happening. Will be much obliged.

How do I get image unto this have not done it in years lol

http://imgur.com/6RkgzEJ

http://imgur.com/M6wILfx

http://imgur.com/kP46PJV

 

[marked man]

I just did the timing chain change.
Both tensioners were being ground down and the guides were both broken loose. It was a disaster in there.
AND there were chain gouges in the OIL pump housing down by the crank. Good thing I got on this. It could have been bad.

Issues: The top idler pulley on power steering side , the boss on the cam cover broke clean off. Now have to fix this. Going to tap it deeper and use a longer bolt as well as put a couple of pins through the old boss to keep it put in its old location. Looks like they machined a stress riser at the base of this boss.
The way they moved the PS pump up (different than a Mustang motor) you cannot just leave those pulleys off and run a Mustang belt, the angles are wrong.

I used a ratcheting box end 10mm to get that bolt under the PS pump line it worked ok.

Thanks for the tips in here. I went in confident I could do this and I did it in one day without too much pain.

Only wish I had thought to get an electric fan kit to put on while I was in there.

 

[drdoom]

Advice Please...

I have my parts on order, a tensioner kit with chains, no sprockets. I am not planning on using the chains, so can I assume that I will not need a crankshaft holding device? And also it is my understanding that the camshaft holding device does not apply to the 16 valve engine? TIA

 

[Number4]

Get the crank holder, it also helps to move it.
Tools don't work for our years I even called OTC. But, I've seen a picture where someone had them installed on the back end of the cams, I'd thought they went up front for some reason.

I called Ford Racing, I was told that 'personally I just pop out the followers with a large screw driver.' Video online shows doing so with the point of the cam lobe facing straight up (DOHC video, but same principle.)

Had i watched the vid on removing the followers, I'd have replaced the gears and chains as well.

Edit: [MENTION=75839]drdoom[/MENTION] If you are near Atlanta, you can use the tools I bought.