4R44E VB Rebuild - Transgo kit?

[Seivad17]

I'm going to order the Transgo kit tomorrow to start rebuilding a 4R44E VB but I'm confused. Do I need the separator plate? Any other special tool or parts besides the Gaskets?

Also if someone could verify that this it the most likely solution to my problem, that would be great.

I have a 99 Ford Ranger. When O/D is on I have a "barely there reverse" and no gears unless I manually put it in 1st or 2nd. When O/D is off every thing works fine except a large flare going into 3rd and "barely there reverse" (meaning if I'm on a flat surface and put it in reverse, I feel it engage but I barely move, however there is some power. any kind of grade is like it is in neutral) after I hit about 50MPH I can re-engage O/D and it shifts into O/D with a large flare. When I drop below 45 - 50MPH its like I'm in neutral until I turn O/D off again. Thanks

 

[BrooklynBay]

It sounds like you have low hydraulic pressure? How many miles do you have? If you have a 5 speed automatic transmission with a 4.0L engine, then you have a 5R55E. It might be the EPC solenoid, and the valve body gaskets. I would recommend doing a pressure test with a 0-300 PSI gauge.

 

[Seivad17]

It's a 3.0L with almost 160,000 miles. It's been doing the 3rd gear flare for about 2 years and no O/D & Reverse for 8 months. Can I rent a 0-300 PSI gauge from autozone or use a compression gauge? Is there any information on how to do this pressure test on this forum?

I am going to become a "Elite" This evening, so you guys can get some support for supporting me. Thanks again.

 

[BrooklynBay]

This thread has information on using a 0-300 PSI transmission pressure gauge: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117998 You could buy one on EBay, or WWW.Eppys.Com.

 

[Glacier991]

It's not 100%, but I think if you follow the 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary you will solve your problem. You may well have a blown out gasket causing the majority of your problem. I'd do the FORD Mod at the same time I rebuilt my VB.

 

[Seivad17]

Glacier, -Are you saying that I should do the Ford Mod and not the Transgo, or should I do both? In the Diary, I was under the impression that the Ford Mod made the Transgo "redundent".

BrooklynBay, -I'll have to order the gauge online because autozone, NAPA and advance only have compression gauges. Will it be worth the wait and the cost to order the gauge if I'm most likly going to rebuild anyway?

Thanks you guys for your help.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The gauge is still a useful tool. You could do a comparison of pressure readings before, and after so it's not a waste to buy it. Which place did you decide to order it from? What brand is it?

 

[Seivad17]

I'm looking at Ebay Item# 330043815725 MAC TOOLS TRANSMISSION & OIL PRESSURE GAUGE SET. Bid at $17 right now with 15 Hours left. It's Used, What do you think?

 

[Glacier991]

My advice is follow the Diary, including the selection of a Superior kit and the FORD mod, including the updated Sep plate. The pressure gauage is up to you.

 

[Seivad17]

The 1999 Ranger Workshop Manual states that I need two Valve Body Guide Pins listed below. Are these necessary? Thanks.

Special Tool(s) Valve Body Guide Pin (.235)
307-333 (T95L-70010-B)
Valve Body Guide Pin (.248)
307-334 (T95L-70010-C

 

[rangerbury]

I have a '95 Ranger with a 3.0 & 4R44E at about 125,000 miles. Last summer (with the great help of the guys on this forum) I did the 5R55e diary as well as the Ford TSB, a Superior shift kit and a new EPC solenoid. I've had a burp or two since then but the result was great; i.e., no more shift flares/slips. I also did a couple of fluid and filter changes in quick succession ( about 3,000 miles) with SeaFoam's Trans-Tune. I'm very happy with the results.

p.s. - I also intsalled a drain plug in the pan so as to avoid the infamous Mercon bath. Also, read the "Stairway to the Diary" thread. Great stuff.

Good luck with your project.

 

[BillJ]

The 1999 Ranger Workshop Manual states that I need two Valve Body Guide Pins listed below. Are these necessary? Thanks.

Special Tool(s) Valve Body Guide Pin (.235)
307-333 (T95L-70010-B)
Valve Body Guide Pin (.248)
307-334 (T95L-70010-C

I used M6x55 (6mm = 0.236", alignment pins are 0.235 & 0.248") stainless steel "shanked" bolts to serve as a poor man's alignment pins. The bolt shank should be longer then the thickness of the valve body. The bolt fits snug in the small pin placement and is loose in the large pin placement. This can be used for installing the VB plate and then the VB assy to the tranny. Just make sure the bolt is centered in the large hole when tightening.

I looked and could not find any one at the time who carried the alignment pins. While I do not think they are 100% necessary, careful attention to the alignment of the separator plate and valve body is important.

The following picture is from my manual on the 5R55E tranny:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32975&stc=1&d=1147212939

Good Luck!

 

[Glacier991]

This board is getting some pretty sophisticated helpers!!!! Impressive.

 

[Seivad17]

HELP!!
Thanks everybody,
I Got it back to gether but now I can't shift out of park. Any Solutions? I didn't want to pull the shifter too hard but there is way more resistance than normal. P.S. I didn't rebuild, I just bought a rebuilt one online $200 w/ EPC minus the headache. I Thought it would be plug and play.

 

[Glacier991]

Relax, and take a deep breath. It is a not uncommon problem to forget to properly place the shift engagement lever in the manual valve on reassembly. Bad news? Another tranny fluid bath. Good news, it's nothing serious.

I'm betting this is what happened. Remember that the linkage inside the tranny has to engage the manual valve AS you install the VB.... making it seem like a 3 handed process.

Careful inspection of the linkage outside and mainly INSIDE, will show you the problem. Let us know how it goes...

Deep breath... deep... in... out... slowly.... you're OK.

 

[Seivad17]

got some extra info if it helps. The shifter goes almost to the "R" position with the brakes pushed before stoping vs. the lock position without the brakes depressed. A very noticable difference.

 

[Seivad17]

Thanks you Glacier,
Does this mean I have to drop the VB again or just the pan and filter?

 

[Glacier991]

if I am right, the VB will need to be dropped.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here is BillJ's picture from the above link:

 

[Seivad17]

Good News & Bad News
Good News:
You were right Glacier it was the shift engagement lever. I can now shift.
Bad News:
Still "barely there reverse" and no "Drive" with O/D engaged. I haven't gotten it out to see about the 2-3 flare. Any Ideas?