4WD or AWD

[BobWiersema]

4WD or AWD / Major Front End Work

I need to order Hub Bearings from Rock Auto and Moog list 2 different ones.

How do I know? :scratch:

Also, Is there a discount code for Rock?

Thanks,
Bob

 

[DjDom]

4WD and AWD use the same front hub.

There's a code on the forum that gets updated monthly for Rock Auto. Just use the search bar.

 

[koda2000]

same-o same-o

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Should be hub assembly number 515052. Timken makes the OEM Ford part. Is probably a better choice than Moog for this application.

Discount code:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2931123&postcount=1

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Most important part of swapping out that hub is getting the axle nut properly torqued back on. I've see specs of anywhere from 150 to 185 ft-pounds.

If you don't already have one, should pick up torque wrench. Best deal I have run across in quite some time:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...pcyI6IjExLjk5IiwicHJvZHVjdF9pZCI6 IjgifQ==

 

[BobWiersema]

Dont know why moog would list 2 different part numbers. Only difference I see is price. Looks like the correct part is 515052.

 

[BobWiersema]

Ball Joints

Im also replacing ball joints and this just is confusing the snot out of me.
The left side upper includes new bushings but the right side is a two part upper that does not. Well take a look at this from Moog and give me some advice.

Moog Technical Bullitan

If I use the one piece replacement how do I adjust Caster?
Looks like its eliminated. Should I stick with the two piece setup and just replace the bushings?

This is getting out of hand. Looks like every front end part will get replaced.

 

[koda2000]

the driver's side upper control arm is one piece. the original equipment upper control arm's ball joint can't be changed, so you have to get the whole arm.

the passenger side control upper arm is a 2 piece design to allow for additional caster adjustment. you can replace the 2 piece design with a one piece upper control arm if you want to replace the p/s bushings, or you can buy a replacement outer piece (easier to change if your bushings are still ok).

the lower ball joints press out of the lower control arms. if the arms and bushings are okay you just need the ball joint.

the upper control arms (w/ball joints) and the lower ball joints are all the same, regardless if you have a v6, v8, 2wd, 4wd or AWD.

i replaced my upper and lower ball joints last Oct with Moog's from RockAuto for about $150.

 

[DjDom]

I just did my ball joints from Rock Auto last weekend.

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
1997 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 OHV
MOOG K8695T Ball Joint (8708.80.9900) CAD$ 25.66 CAD$ 0.00 2 CAD$ 51.32
MOOG ES3302RL Tie Rod End (8708.94.9910) CAD$ 27.73 CAD$ 0.00 2 CAD$ 55.46
MOOG K8710T Control Arm (8708.80.9900) CAD$ 50.51 CAD$ 0.00 1 CAD$ 50.51
MOOG K8708T Control Arm (8708.80.9900) CAD$ 50.51 CAD$ 0.00 1 CAD$ 50.51

 

[BobWiersema]

Tearing this down today. I just dont understand if its ok to use the one piece control arm or not. What adjustment will be lost? This will need to be re-aligned. If I keep it a 2 piece design can I buy the upper arm with the bushing in it? Did not see the part listed on Rockauto.com

If it doesnt stop raining, I'm walking to work on Monday.

 

[koda2000]

Tearing this down today. I just dont understand if its ok to use the one piece control arm or not. What adjustment will be lost? This will need to be re-aligned. If I keep it a 2 piece design can I buy the upper arm with the bushing in it? Did not see the part listed on Rockauto.com

If it doesnt stop raining, I'm walking to work on Monday.

as i already told you. the 2 piece upper control arm on the passenger side provides for additional caster adjustment. i have not seen the piece with the bushings for sale anywhere (through Ford maybe?). you should be okay to use the one piece style uca on the passenger side if your truck doesn't have a lift kit.

 

[BobWiersema]

I guess I just don't understand why it was built like that. And only on one side. I have always had a problem with the alignment, from the day I bought it new it pulled right, took it back 5 times and they could not fix it. So what I was thinking, perhaps I should change to a aftermarket alignment kit. I saw it on our forum somewhere. If I remember correctly it replaces the upper control arm bolts and cams to give additional adjustment. With all this work and money, I would love to have it go down the road correctly for the first time in its life. I'll search for that latter, I'm on my garage computer and its as old as the Ex.

 

[koda2000]

i don't know why Ford designed the control arms to be different. but as they make & sell a one piece passenger side UCA (and many here have used them) they must work. caster keeps your wheels going straight and prevents the vehicle from wandering on the road. it also allows the front wheels and steering wheel to return to center after a turn. i suggest you get the Moog alignment bolt kits for both sides.

 

[BobWiersema]

i don't know why Ford designed the control arms to be different. but as they make & sell a one piece passenger side UCA (and many here have used them) they must work. caster keeps your wheels going straight and prevents the vehicle from wandering on the road. it also allows the front wheels and steering wheel to return to center after a turn. i suggest you get the Moog alignment bolt kits for both sides.

Thanks, I found this Alignment Kit, is it overkill? Truck is stock, no lift. But like I said, they could never align it.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks, I found this Alignment Kit, is it overkill? Truck is stock, no lift. But like I said, they could never align it.

no it's not overkill. personally i buy the Moog alignment kits, but i guess they accomplish the same thing. it's your call.

 

[DjDom]

Thanks, I found this Alignment Kit, is it overkill? Truck is stock, no lift. But like I said, they could never align it.

That's odd that you can't align it.

You know what it could be. You're front torsion bars may have drooped/loosened over time and your tires sit at an angle.
Measure your front ride height, compare it with stock height and see if it's lower. If it is, crank the torsion bars a bit.

Also, my truck couldn't be aligned because the ball joints were bad. It would just drop right back to the tires looking like: / \

The camber kit shouldn't really be needed on a stock truck..
After changing my ball joints, I got the camber spot on with the stock plates. The guy at the alignment shop was even shocked at how accurate it was.

 

[Dave 1955]

Guy above makes excellent points....I concur.
Check the front end height and ball joints.
My 95 had the non adjustable upper control arms and my tires wore fast till I replaced the drivers side upper.
All was good afterwards without even doing anything else.

 

[BobWiersema]

I started taking thing apart over the weekend. Drivers side is all torn down. Looks like I need everything.

Quick question, is this a seal over the end of the CV joint or part of the hub bearing that got stuck on it?

 

[koda2000]

yes, there's supposed to be a seal there to keep crap out of the hub bearing. i looked for one when replacing my front axle seals a few weeks ago, but couldn't find any one that listed one locally. i ended up just going w/out it (the old one wasn't doing it's job anyway and it is a sealed bearing). i would assume a new/reman axle would come with one.

 

[BobWiersema]

yes, there's supposed to be a seal there to keep crap out of the hub bearing. i looked for one when replacing my front axle seals a few weeks ago, but couldn't find any one that listed one locally. i ended up just going w/out it (the old one wasn't doing it's job anyway and it is a sealed bearing). i would assume a new/reman axle would come with one.

Ya, I cant find it anywhere. If you look at this picture from RockAuto you can see it.

In this picture it says "Does Not Include ABS Ring", so could that be what its called?

I need to start ordering parts asap.