4x4

[jeremyd25]

i got my 4x4 working or so the shop says it was in februaray are there ways to test it? also are there routine maint. procedures being as though im in Maryland it wont be snowing for awhile. also dumb question how do I use it properly it has auto hubs and a 4x4 button and low range button thanks in advance FYI to get the system working I had to replace the transfer case motor also i read in other posts about modifying to manual hubs?

 

[Iron Weasel]

There are ways to test it.

With the auto hubs, the easiest thing I can think of is to put it in 4-Hi (push the 4x4 button) and then jack up the front end. Rotate one wheel by hand and the other wheel should rotate in the opposite direction. There are other methods, but that's the only one I can think of right now.

How to use it properly - that's a harder question to answer only because I'm not sure what you mean by that.

Frst off, never engage 4WD while on high traction surfaces (asphalt, concrete, etc). You can cause the driveline to bind which puts stress on the entire driveline, but especially the transfer case. Transfer cases have been known to break as a result of the extra stress.

From 4x4abc.com:

You would select 4WD high on snow and for easy to moderate off-road (dirt roads, easy trails). You would select it to have better use of traction (better than 2WD) to get going and to maintain forward movement with a reduced risk of slipping and spinning wheels.The added lateral stability of 4WD makes it less likely to slip sideways.

When "4-low" is selected the wheels create substantially more torque than in "4-high" - at the same time the vehicle moves at substantially slower speeds.

Important: "4-low" does not create more traction - it creates more torque and that can be detrimental when traction is marginal. Slipping tires are more likely in "4 low" than in "4 high"! For that reason 4 low is not a good choice for snow or ice - and not a good choice for mud either!

On pavement the 4 low setting is an advantage for drivers who need to tow and maneuver a heavy trailer (ideally it would be full time 4WD low for towing) etc. and for drivers who at one point or another may want to negotiate difficult off-road terrain, when more torque and/or slower speed is needed (when off-road, part time 4WD low is best - full time 4WD low will not do well, unless the center differential can be locked).

As for the manual hub conversion:

The "Automatic Hublocks" are adequate provided that they actually work. Over time the aluminum rings inside the hubs can wear down or break, or another common reason they don't work is that someone took them off and packed them with grease which causes the hublock to not be able to engage.
When you do a conversion, you have to buy a set of aftermarket hubs (Warn & Mile Marker are typical brands) and axle nuts that replace the auto hubs.

Auto hubs rely on the rotation of the wheel independent of the axle shafts for a short distance to engage two separate components in the hub - when the two components slip into place, they lock together which causes the axle shaft to turn the wheel. They are prone to breaking under high torque situations and can become unlocked easily.

Manual hubs require you to turn a dial on the end of the hub. Turning the dial has the same effect - you're locking the wheel to the axle shaft. The difference is that once you lock it it's locked until you unlock it again. Of course, if you break the hub itself, it'll unlock but at that point you've got bigger problems. One downside to manual hubs is that you have to actually get out of the vehicle and lock each wheel...if you're already stuck in mud or water, it's not fun to have to mess around with the hubs.

This thread goes into greater detail about auto / manual hubs: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232754

 

[westfield]

Iron, very nice write up !

 

[jeremyd25]

THank you guys for the info I was just wondering if I had to put the truck in nuetral to engage the 4x4 button its a 93 ?

 

[Iron Weasel]

If you're just switching from 2Hi to 4Hi (pushing the 4x4 button) then you don't need to put the transmission in neutral. You can shift into 4Hi while moving at slow speeds. Switching from 4Hi to 4Lo, however, will require to stop, put the transmission in neutral, depress the clutch if you have a manual transmission, and then push the 4x4 Low Range button.

 

[jeremyd25]

is 2hi OD? i was told you had to come to a complete stop before pushing the 4x4 or low range button? also what is a good way to test the hubs lock besides using a jack to life the fron end up and see how the wheels spin when the 4x4 is pushed. DO you have to come to a complete stop before turning off the 4x4 button. my apologizes for the basic questions im new to 4 wheel drive vehicles. I just do not want to destroy anything after I put the money into fixing it and want the truck to last.

 

[Iron Weasel]

OD is Overdrive. 5th gear on a manual or 4th gear on the A4LD (automatic).

2Hi means 2 wheel drive wherein only the rear axle receives power from the engine.

4Hi (4x4) is when power is divided between the front and rear axle by engaging the transfer case. There is no gear reduction when going from 2WD to 4Hi.

4Lo (4x4 Low Range) is the same as 4Hi except that there is a gear reduction. Low range on the Borg Warner 1354 is 2.48:1. That means that the input of the transfer case rotates 2.48 times to turn the output shaft 1 time. What that translates to is more torque being applied to the wheels and a slower top speed for the vehicle (15MPH is about the fastest you'd want to go) but it gives you more "grunt" because the engine isn't having to work as hard. It's good for crawling over large obstacles or if you need to ascend or descend a steep hill.

Testing the 4 wheel drive in the driveway pretty much requires jacking up at least one wheel. For example, back up about 10 feet from where you normally park at, then engage 4x4 (push the 4x4 button) and move forward 10 feet. Jack up the left front wheel and rotate it counterclockwise by hand - if the hublocks are working and are locked, you shouldn't be able to rotate the wheel very far before it stops. You can also verify the engagement of the hublock by looking at the axleshaft going to the wheel. When you rotate the wheel, the axleshaft should rotate along with it.

You don't need to come to a complete stop when shifting into or out of 4Hi (4x4) but if it's possible, you should so you reduce the strain on the drive line. Shifting into or out of 4Lo (4x4 Low Range) does require that you come to a complete stop and put the transmission in neutral, clutch depressed if manual.