5.0L Water Pump

[koda2000]

I'm beginning my '00 5.0 water pump replacement this evening. I'm sure not looking forward to it.

 

[XLTrunner]

I think we've all had that feeling on one project or another. Personally, I usually find that all the hand-wringing over the "what ifs" that could go wrong was for nothing once I got into the project. Good luck...and, report back.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
Well, things were going smoothly. I managed to get 7 of the 9 w/p bolts out no problem. The remaining 2 were the long ones (of course) by the alternator and p/s pump. I started with the one by the alternator. I could get it to move just a tiny bit. I heated it up and worked it back and forth for a half hour, but it wouldn't turn. Someone here suggested drilling holes in the timing cover, where the bolts pass through, and spraying penetrant (every time I type that word I think of the Indiana Jones movie where he's searching for the Holy Grail... "a penitent man shall pass") into the holes. I couldn't get at the timing cover easily, but I was able to drill a 1/8" hole through the water pump where the bolt went through. I sprayed WD40 into the hole and worked the bolt back and forth and it slowly began to loosen. I kept spraying and turning and the bolt came out quite easily.

The news on the power steering pump side was not so good. I heated the bolt up good but it wouldn't budge. I can't get at the w/p or timing cover on that side. It looks like I'll have to remove the p/s and a/c bracket in order to drill a hole, like I did on the alt side. What a PITA. To make matter's worse, the bolt head is beginning to strip. I suppose I can jam two 13MM nuts together on the studded part of the bolt, but that will only be helpful if I can get some holes drilled for the WD40 to soak in.

This sucks. All but one bolt out. I'll sleep on it and see if I come up with a plan tomorrow.

BTW, I also discovered that the lower idler pulley (one of those damn plastic ones) is shot. The bearing is spinning inside the plastic. So at least I'll prevent a future disaster. Off to the auto parts store and hardware store tomorrow morning.

Anybody know how difficult it is to take off the p/s bracket? I see 2 large bolts on the front.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
I got the p/s & a/c bracket loose (3 bolts) but still not loose enough to get it out of my way. Enough for today. I'll resume my efforts tomorrow. If I have to take the p/s pump and a/c compressor off the bracket, that's what I'll have to do I guess.

 

[supermidget]

You are still at the easy part. The real fun starts when you put it all back together and hope there are no leaks. When i did the wp on my 99 5.0 i put it all together to be greated by water spraying out behind the timing cover.

Someone in the past had from best i can tell installed a new chain but used no gasket behind the cover on install. Just a bead of rtv around the water ports and slapped it back on. I hope you have better luck.

Also dont forget where each wp bolt goes as they are pretty much all different. I took this while mine was off.

 

[imp]

If ya think this is a tough application, try doing a WP on a 370 Industrial Eng., (the 429-460 block) in a 28-foot box F-700 truck!

Jesus Christ! I did it off I-40 buried somewhere in New Mexico. My wife, who was present, said I never swore so much before! imp

 

[koda2000]

supermidget & IMP

Not helpful and frankly depressing. Additional anxiety on this job was not what I was looking for.

I've gotten the p/s bracket out of my way and will start drilling some holes for penetrant if/when my drill battery recharges.

 

[koda2000]

I got my drill battery charged and was able to drill four 1/8" holes through the water pump housing and timing cover along the path of the stuck bolt. I've been filling the holes with WD40 and it eventually seems to disappear to somewhere, so I guess that's promising. I also installed my jam nuts, but while they didn't help me to turn the bolt, I found that threading one nut on all the way and placing it against the thin bolt head does help me keep my deep socket planted squarely on the bolt head though.

So I guess I'll just keep filling the holes with WD40 and periodically try turning the bolt. I've got time. This job doesn't need to get finished any particular time soon. I'm so glad I purchased the "spare truck" last year. It's really come in handy.

I wish I could get my impact in there, but there's just not enough room. Maybe I'll buy a air hammer tool and try beating on the tip of the stud to shake things up. I refuse to be denied.

 

[SWIGIN]

WD-40 is a horrible product to use for that. It is better than nothing at all but that's about it.

The best thing I have found for rusted bolts is PB Blaster but even some kerosene or ATF will work better then WD-40.

 

[radman]

Amen

2X on the PB Blaster, it's the best.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
*50/50 mix

Found this googling best penetrant for rusty bolts. Supposedly, the data is from "scientific" testing. Take it for what it's worth to you. We use Kano aerokroil at work (large chemical manufacturing facility)and the mechanics swear by it as being the best, the data seems to confirm that.

 

[WncLee]

Simple way to remove bolts

When I went to get the bolts out the one at the ps pump the head snapped off & didn't want to have to cut/drill my timing cover & add something else to buy. I took off my alternator & ps pump brackets to get access to the cover. Took a torch to the timing cover to heat up where the bolt runs through it & the bolt came right out,don't heat the bolt up just the timing cover. Irwin makes some sockets for removing damaged/broken bolts & their smaller kit fits the broken bolts,hammered the smallest one onto the broken bolt & heated up the timing cover & it came right out. If you heat up the bolt it will expand & still be stuck,heating the timing cover will give more room for the bolt & also take care of the corrosion. Hopefully this will help someone else out, never had such troubles on a simple water pump job, I got so frustrated I parked it for a long time & finally got back on it with a fresh head & was so simple.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

WD40 sucks. Use PB blaster that works pretty well. Then as said heat the ever living hell out of it. I snapped both my bolts that you are attempting to get out. Once snapped I got my timing cover off by beating it with a hammer after heating the thing around the guide pins. Once I got it off I heated and sprayed the broken bolts and finally twisted them out with vice grips and got replacement bolts. I wish you better luck than I had, but at least my engine was out of the truck when I was doing this.

 

[imp]

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
*50/50 mix

Found this googling best penetrant for rusty bolts. Supposedly, the data is from "scientific" testing. Take it for what it's worth to you. We use Kano aerokroil at work (large chemical manufacturing facility)and the mechanics swear by it as being the best, the data seems to confirm that.

Interesting data! Thanks! So, having used plain old ATF all those years was a good idea after all. Lots of guys disagreed, worried about "detergents", anti-foaming agents in it, etc. All B.S. imp

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I'm not sure I believe all that data. Take it with a grain of salt. IMO PB blaster works 10x better than WD40 but according to that "scientific data", it's really not much better. There are a ton of factors that would come into play in the real world to make one better than the other, so this controlled test probably wasn't the greatest but may be a good guide.

 

[imp]

1997, I agree there's room to dispute such data. All I'll say about any of it is that I've found WD-40 to be the most highly over-rated, and least useful product. Why? Because when I sprayed it on the "ways" of my lathe and milling machine (machined surfaces), after a time, the surfaces became sticky as though coated with sap. Parts would no longer move easily or smoothly.

Plus, it's over-priced, IMO. imp

 

[jay1028]

After reading all this so far, I am convinced that even though the dealer cost me a real lot to do this job, I am glad that I didn't even think of tackling it. They got all my bolts out in one piece at 140k miles, but they advised me that if bolts broke, it would be $100 each to replace them!

Hope you get them all out in one piece.

 

[BobH]

I just tackled a water pump replacement on my 2000 Eddie Bauer Explorer (pump shaft was wobbling, causing serpentine belt to run onto the crank pulley flange).
I managed to get all but one of the bolts out without too much trouble, but that last one was a bear! It was one of the long stud/bolt combination things, and the bolt head rounded off without it budging (luckily it didn't break, though). I put three jam nuts on the outer stud portion and fired up my Dad's oxy/acetylene torch to finally get it out.

There's a really good video on YouTube at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EwWbzXk_Kg that was very helpful with a lot of great info (the mechanic there had to torch out three bolts, but he kind of glossed over that part).

Thanks for sharing all of the great suggestions and expertise on this forum--- it's been a great help!

 

[Mountinheer]

Sooooo... just bought a 2001 5.0 mounty. It's been great, until today it started puking water.

Looks like the pump to me, so I run and buy 1. As I go to install, I notice the one on there looks recently installed.... I use the new pump to help locate the bolts, and realize the top right bolt in above pic is missing.... I grab a pick, and sure enough, ... not missing. Broke.

Now thanks to this thread I know it's a FKNG 12" stud.... Wth.

I just got took a break from trying to get the fan off... Anyone got a trick for me?

Do I need to get the stud out? Or can I drill/tap and bolt?

 

[koda2000]

The fan nut unscrews counter-clock wise. It takes a bit of a shock to break it loose. Some say a pipe wrench and a smack with a hammer (leave the belt on) will work, but never tried that. I go to O'Reilly's and rent there fan clutch removal kit. Don't bother with AutoZone or Advance's lend -a-tools. They stretch and slip off the nut.

That 12" W/P bolts usually breaks because it rusts inside the timing cover and W/P. Some here have left it off, put sealant in the hole and say it hasn't leaked. It's a pain to get it out.

Be sure to verify that it's actually the W/P that's leaking first.