55k miles, rotors need replacing. Anything else I should do?

[doogz]

My front rotors are presumably warped. When applying the brakes at high speeds, you can feel a shutter in the pedal and throughout the car. When coming to a stop on the brakes, the car will "pulse" as the brakes grab on the warped portion of the rotor(s). You can feel it heavily and most of my passengers have asked what it is.

Anyways.. I'm going to replace the front rotors and brakes and was wondering if there's anything else I can do, maintenance-wise.

It's a 2001 Explorer Sport 4x4, 55k miles, original everything (besides oil, of course). It runs exactly like the day I bought it. No abnormal ticking, stuttering, shuddering, shaking, idling, etc.. Gas mileage hit 24MPG on a 5 hour, 65 degree, flat trip through south carolina last weekend.

Now that I think about it, under certain conditions when I start the car, it will take a little while to start up, 3-6 seconds of the key being in the start position. Immediately after startup, it will idle rough and the car feels like it's going to stall until the computer catches it and the RPMs shoot up to 2k, then it idles fine. The car has been in for a Check Engine light 2 summers ago which ended up being a faulty computer that was replaced.

Should I wait until 75k or it shows signs that parts need to be replaced? Like I said, it runs great, but I do plan on keeping it for awhile. I had a '96 Cobra before this one and it literally required nothing other than gas and oil changes.

 

[410Fortune]

Dont be so quick to assume its the rotors, the ball joints and or tires out of balance are also common causes of brake surging.

 

[Silver X]

Phil,
I'm glad to hear you've had good luck with your Explorer so far.

My Explorer is at 65k now and I've had to replace all 4 of my rotors already and the pads several times. If you decide to do a brake job, don't get the Murray's "premium" pads unless you like to replace them every 500 miles. My pad material just kept crumbling off the backing plates. Spend the few extra bucks and get some high quality name brand pads the first time.

Another thing that made a huge improvement in drivability was new shocks. The stock ones are junk. If you want it to handle better, get the Explorer Express rear stabilizer bar. It made a big difference even when I had blown stock shocks.

-Mike

 

[ExplorerDMB]

Look into a transmission service (dropping the pan and replacing the 5 quarts of fluid and replacing the filter) and possibly a transmission flush (extract the old fluid while putting new in). It is a great thing to do. Also, you all sure do go through brakes like nothing else. I suggest you either start machining your rotors everytime you do a brake job, or stop braking so darn late and hard. Good luck.

-Drew

 

[Silver X]

My rotors get measured and machined or replaced every time I change the pads. I just had a few sets of junk pads. One random pad would fall apart while the rest looked new. I found out a friend of mine had the same problem several times with his Explorer and he dumped his Murray's pads for some Wagners. So I changed to Wagner pads the last time and they look and work great after 15k miles so far. The brake dust problem is almost completely eliminated too. Bendix pads were also recommended to me and I'll probably try them next time I need a brake job. I am a pretty aggressive driver and should probably change my habits, but what fun would that be? I do all my own work on non-warrantee stuff, so the occasional maintenance is no big deal.

 

[aldive]

A rotor upgrade is another option.

Powerslot rotors ( http://www.powerslot.com/ ) made a world of difference in stopping power on my '99. They are well worth the price.

Good luck .....

 

[CDW6212R]

Always buy the best pads possible. It's better to pay double what the cheap pads cost, and get twice as much life out of the pads, or more. I bought my 98 Mountaineer in November of 2002. I installed new EBC rotors and EBC pads in January of 2003. After 43,000 miles, my front pads have 1/4 pad left.

I installed aftermarket drilled and slotted Sport Trac rotors, and spindles, on my 99 chassis recently. This chassis will be going under my 93 Limited mail vehicle soon. I am a Rural carrier, and I am harder on brakes than anyone that you have ever heard of.

My 93 mail vehicle currently has Autozone bought Performance Friction pads on it. They are my third set in less than two years. They are only lasting me about 6-7k, while the first(Ford) set that I installed lasted 20,000 miles.

Again, don't waste the time with cheap brake pads. Always buy the best pads that you have time and money to get. I will be using the EBC pads on my mail vehicle when I need service again. There are many very good aftermarket companies to choose pads from. Generally you can't buy them at discount auto parts stores. Look to the internet for brake parts dealers, or even Ebay. Good luck,
Don

 

[doogz]

Dont be so quick to assume its the rotors, the ball joints and or tires out of balance are also common causes of brake surging.

I rotated the tires twice to see if the surge moved to the rear of the car or either side and the shudder felt identical. Is there a way to check the ball joints? I'll search the forums a bit more and see if I can't find something.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

or stop braking so darn late and hard

Maybe after I get new ones. I blame the previous owner for any and all problems associated with my X. I couldn't possibly have caused them

 

[CDW6212R]

Good luck with your Explorer. To check the ball joints, lift the front end up, and tug on a tire up and down, side to side. Pull one side towards you, while pushing the opposite side of the tire away. Very ball joints can be seen or felt without looking at the actual ball joint. Ideally you need a second person to watch each ball joint while the first person tugs on the tire. Any visual movement of a ball joint would mean that it is bad.
Don