5R55e not downshifting

[~X~]

2000 Explorer SOHC 4.o - 5r55e
32” tires- 285/65/18
168,000 miles
Last trans service at 120,000
Trans fluid isn’t burnt but looks clear, not red.
Only codes are: # p0320, b1309, b1352. (why no trans codes?), never has had a blinking OD light, no check engine light either and all bulbs are good.
#6 maxi fuse removed to disable auto FWD.
Checked all fuses, installed missing 5AMP fuse #? for data link connector.

Symptoms: Has always had slight delayed reverse, stalls when put into reverse but very rarely. Slight 2-3 shift flare.

Took it for a 250 mile trip across the Cascades and back, pushed it coming up to the summit of HWY 140, about a 3000 foot climb. Slowed down to turn onto Butte falls HWY, it didn’t downshift, RPMs went to below idle as I took the turn and slowly got to 60 MPH, stayed there for 25 miles till I had to slow to 25 MPH in the town of Butte falls and RPMs went way down again, I knew there was trouble. Went another 16 miles to junction of HWY 62 and had to stop for a stop sign. Car died, I put in park & re started, shift into drive, shutters and dies. Start it again, put in reverse and pull off the road, tried drive again and it dies again. Started it again and cycle through park/reverse, neutral, cycle again and it goes into drive (although I’m not sure if I took off in 1st or 2nd). Drove 8 miles home and dies again, stuck in 4th or OD, I’m not sure.

I parked it and didn’t drive for a few days. Took it to a shop a couple days later and had it scanned, no codes except door locks and alarm! Been parked since then. Talked to another mechanic a couple days ago, an ex Aamco guy who has an excellent reputation. We got on the subject of the TCC solenoid and he said it holds back pressure to the TCC. I guess you know where I’m going with this – hoping to find blown separator plate gasket or broken bracket on TCC solenoid, maybe broken bracket on the other solenoids or something I can put my finger on.

Spoke with Josh at Central valve bodies and was informed theirs comes with new EPC, new TCC and Sonnax upgrades, a matching separator plate and gaskets. I would love to just do the valve body along with a Superior kit & a second cooler along with a drain plug and be done for a few years. Still puzzled as to why it has no flashing OD light, hasn’t stored any pertinent codes.

 

[2000StreetRod]

not locked torque converter

I think when the torque converter stays locked the engine will stall at very low vehicle speeds but still should be able to shift up and down. The brake pedal position switch (BPPS) allows the PCM to determine that the vehicle is braking and if the TPS indicates closed throttle the PCM unlocks the torque converter. An easy way to test the BPPS is to set the cruise control and then tap the brake pedal which should disengage cruise control.

When I had a blown valve body separator plate gasket I had upshift flares but no problems with downshifts.

Does the vehicle operate normally in Manual 1 (1st gear/speed) and Manual 2 (2nd gear/3rd speed)? Can you shift in/out of overdrive using the transmission control switch?

P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
I suggest clearing P0320 before diagnosing possible transmission problems. The PCM may not be reliably determining the engine speed and not know what gear to select. Try cleaning the crankshaft position sensor connector contacts by disconnecting/reconnecting a few times.

 

[~X~]

I think when the torque converter stays locked the engine will stall at very low vehicle speeds but still should be able to shift up and down. The brake pedal position switch (BPPS) allows the PCM to determine that the vehicle is braking and if the TPS indicates closed throttle the PCM unlocks the torque converter. An easy way to test the BPPS is to set the cruise control and then tap the brake pedal which should disengage cruise control.

When I had a blown valve body separator plate gasket I had upshift flares but no problems with downshifts.

Does the vehicle operate normally in Manual 1 (1st gear/speed) and Manual 2 (2nd gear/3rd speed)? Can you shift in/out of overdrive using the transmission control switch?

P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
I suggest clearing P0320 before diagnosing possible transmission problems. The PCM may not be reliably determining the engine speed and not know what gear to select. Try cleaning the crankshaft position sensor connector contacts by disconnecting/reconnecting a few times.

Thank you 2000 Streetrod. Getting to your questions:
As for normal 1st gear, it has never had engine braking in 1st but has always up shifted fine through all gears including overdrive. Manual up shifts work fine. Last time I drove it (2 months ago) I was shifting into neutral when coming to a stop but it would take off in 1st and make it to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and OD without problems.

As for my BPPS, it has always worked, turning off cruise control just fine.
The OD off/on button always works fine.

I wont have the Explorer back here until later this week, possibly Thanksgiving day, but when it is (I'm camped in my motorhome at work which is a huge shop with a lift) I will clear the codes, test drive then clean the crankshaft position sensor as well. I appreciate you steering me in the right direction here.

I'm pretty determined to do a re-manufactured valve body just to see whats in the pan and get that out of the way. New gaskets and EPC will be some peace of mind as well.

Thank you for sharing your experience and helpfulness, Mike.

 

[2000StreetRod]

engine braking

. . . it has never had engine braking in 1st but has always up shifted fine through all gears including overdrive.

According to my ATSG 5R55E manual there is no engine braking in 1st when in Drive. Engine braking occurs in M1, M2, 4th with O/D cancelled and 5th.

. . . I'm pretty determined to do a re-manufactured valve body just to see whats in the pan and get that out of the way. New gaskets and EPC will be some peace of mind as well. . .

I also had a broken solenoid mounting bracket that I replaced. I didn't replace any solenoids since they all passed the resistance test. See this thread: 5R55E shift saga I now have about 160K miles on the odometer and have been running about 6 psi of boost for almost a year. The transmission seems to be holding up fine with no problems.

 

[~X~]

OK, I'm referring to engine braking in manual 1st.
I have seen pictures here of a broken bracket on the TCC solenoid, it is built into the body of the solenoid.....yeah, that's what I'm hoping for. I have read the entire valve body rebuild diary as well as most of your posts including the "5r55e shift saga" and your posts on timing chain tensioners. Started before I even bought this thing a year ago, you guys are amazing.

 

[~X~]

OK a quick update on this. Got the Explorer here the day before Christmas, put it on the lift and cleaned my CKP. Took it for a 20 mile test drive, all was fine until I was almost home & it decided to die at the last stoplight. I put it in neutral, re-started, went into reverse then into drive and got home. Been driving it the last 3 days with no problems so the problem seems intermittent. I called Central valve bodies and talked to Josh, went ahead and ordered a re-manufactured valve body, should be here on Tuesday. While I had him on the phone I described the problem and he said its probably a solenoid. I'm inclined to believe this is true.

 

[~X~]

Ok, I got my valve body. I pulled the pan & found some goodies. Lots of metal, mostly fine particles and a tiny bit of brass. Dropped the valve body and found blown gasket in two places, near a shift solenoid and behind the reverse servo. I was thinking "great", something I can put my finger on. When I looked around in my filter I found lots of tiny roller bearings, so it looks like a thrust bearing is history.

I went ahead and put the new valve body on, finished up and topped off with ATF and it shifts great. But I know some section of this tranny has catastrophic failure and Im not going in there to fix it. I found a tranny and transfer case from a 98 with 112K on it so I would like to put it in along with a new torque converter and my new valve body.

Will this tranny work in my 2000? I'll pull the pan on it before I pay the guy just to be safe, just not sure if it will be happy in my later model.

 

[2000StreetRod]

vehicle speed sensor

The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on your 2000 is the rear axle sensor that feeds the 4 wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS). The 4WABS modifies the signal and sends it to the PCM and other modules. On the 1998 it looks that's also the configuration. The 1998 5R55E has an output shaft speed sensor and a turbine shaft speed sensor as does the 2000. So as far as I can tell if they're both RWD or both 4WD they should be interchangeable but I'm no transmission expert.

 

[~X~]

Hey, thanks 2000 Streetrod. I thought I read somewhere on here that it would be OK. I was hoping someone would be able to identify those roller bearings. Not like Im going to go into this transmission but Im just curious.

I think the PO abused it while towing, all the indicators are there. FML, I would just sell it and buy another car but this is the only car I want.

 

[2000StreetRod]

needle bearings

Starting with 1997 needle bearings replaced thrust washers for "increased durability". I guess they didn't help much because I think Ford went back to thrust washers on the 5R55S/W.

 

[ProjectAviator]

Looking at the other threads listed in this post. Is there a better transmission to replace the 5r55 in a 98 Ex XLT 4.0 OHC.

Thanks

Tim

 

[Flash]

The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on your 2000 is the rear axle sensor that feeds the 4 wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS). The 4WABS modifies the signal and sends it to the PCM and other modules. On the 1998 it looks that's also the configuration. The 1998 5R55E has an output shaft speed sensor and a turbine shaft speed sensor as does the 2000. So as far as I can tell if they're both RWD or both 4WD they should be interchangeable but I'm no transmission expert.

Pretty sure '98 has the rear axle VSS, the '98 transfer case I have does.
I think that was the changeover year so there might be some of each.

Only have to look.

 

[~X~]

A bump to the top since I'm set to pick up this used trans tomorrow at 1:00. The seller says it came out of a good running Expolrer that was wrecked when a tree fell on it. If no guts fall out of the pan I'll get it. It looks like you guys are giving it the thumbs up?

 

[Robman]

Hmm, now I know what those little rollers were in the pan of the trans that died on me awhile back.. it was a 98 5r55e...

 

[~X~]

A bump to the top since I'm set to pick up this used trans tomorrow at 1:00. The seller says it came out of a good running Expolrer that was wrecked when a tree fell on it. If no guts fall out of the pan I'll get it. It looks like you guys are giving it the thumbs up?

So I sent my son to pick up this trans, he did good. Looks like I now own a clean 5r55s and transfer case that was mated to a 4.6 ........guess I'm on my way towards a rebuild of my original trans. I hope I can re-sell the 5r55s.

 

[Robman]

I gather there's simply no way to make the S work? You could put paddle shifters in your Explorer!, lol

 

[~X~]

I gather there's simply no way to make the S work? You could put paddle shifters in your Explorer!, lol

Yeah, paddle shifter for my grocery getter/fly fishing rig! Lets do this!!!

Or not.

I found a good local tranny guy, I'll see if he'll give me any credit in exchange for the 5r55s and have him do a proper rebuild. I'll keep the valve body from Central valve bodies, pull the trans and transfer case myself and re-install it (with a rebuilt transfer case since I was a gonad and pulled the Explorer here on a dolly, something in there HAS to be toasted). New torque converter of course, got any suggestions on a good one?

Oh, guys, Central valve bodies is so easy to deal with. For the small amount you pay its worth it to just have the re-manufactured body at hand and just do a swap. Cant say enough about these guys, awesome to do business with them.

I actually thought about doing the rebuild myself but Im too old and tired of workin on cars. Thanks to all that pitched in here, appreciate you guys. Mike.

 

[j---]

You said you cleaned your crankshaft position sensor connector contacts. Where is this sensor/contacts located? I would like to do the same for mine to rule out problems. Thank you.

 

[~X~]

From under the vehicle its on the top left of the pulley on your crankshaft. I cleaned with brake cleaner.

 

[j---]

Did you clean the connectors or take the sensor out and clean that too? I wouldn't think you would use brake cleaner on the connectors, you must have used the brake cleaner on the actual sensor right?