5r55e slips in drive and reverse but still have manual 1st and 2nd

[markmonty]

I recently rebuilt the 5r55e in my wife's 1998 explorer. I did all the mods and have been using this site for addional info. This is a Great site!!! It was shifting fine for a while, but then it started to go into neutral when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I pulled the pan, replaced the epc, re-checked all the solenoids, re-adjusted the bands, and checked the valvebody gaskets. On the first day it was shifting perfect. When I was driving the 2nd day, it was good until I came to a stop and attempted to take off and it was slipping in drive and reverse. I still have manual 1 and 2. I am a experienced technician but I am really starting to get frustrated with this thing!! I appreciate any help I can get!!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Did you install a shift correction kit? If so, which one? It might be a sticking spool or you might have a slightly warped valve body causing it to bind. Did you ever notice if this problem only occurs at certain temperatures? Did you use a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench on the valve body bolts?

 

[markmonty]

Thanks for the reply. I installed the Trans-go kit. I did use a 1/4" inch pound torque wrench. It would do it most the time before I installed the EPC, after replacing it, it started acting up when warm. Now it slips in drive and reverse, it is partially engaging ll the time. I do have a couple extra valve bodies here. Maybe it's time to drop the pan again. Thanks again!!

 

[markmonty]

This AM I changed out valvebodies, still the same. There is no warpage in either one. Thanks for the help. I am starting to think something failed internally.

 

[markmonty]

Does anyone have any ideas before I pull this transmission? I have tried everything to the best of my knowledge. Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[joey0514]

Hey, guy sounds like the v-body was not rebuild correctly. You might want to purchase a new or use (if use make sure it was taken-off from a working tranny) they run form $95 to $140 for a used or $250 for a new one @ E-bay (Don’t know if you trust them). But I can hook you up with a buddy of mine here in El Paso, TX for around $75 or so just let me know, ok.
I was having a problem with my ST2001 Tranny back in Dec.2007 had to remove it myself and rebuild the whole thing (it was a nice experience). By the way I was a newbie to this Tranny rebuild stuff, yet my knowledge has expanded, thanks to this forum and other research I have done, by the way my ST is runny smooth and working perfectly.

Hey I also found out about a place down at Arizona that sells tranny (all types) around $950 (rebuild of course) plus the core fees (450). But you’ll get your money back once you return your tranny. Sounds like a deal!!!

Here are some prices:
T-Converter $95
Oil Filter $6
Gasket and seal $65 (all of them)
Servos ($12 Inter-Mid or $8 Overdrive)
Bands $18 Originals $9 Generic
Planet gear $85 (I had to change this one)
Shift Solenoids (al l4) are $27 each
Torque Converter Solenoids @ $55
EPC solenoid $94
V-body gaskets $4 each (u need two)
Clutch plates $4 each you need 14 (3 OD, 5 Inter-Mid, 6 Forward)
Tran-oil $2.97 @ Walmart
Vaseline $2

Then again I can get you the use V-body’s for $75 includes all parts except the gaskets.

 

[markmonty]

Thanks, I suppose I could have sticking valves in both of the valve bodies I used. I did not disassemble them, just cleaned them and did the mods. I have taken a break from it as I was tired of messing with it. I have a 3rd one I may try. I appreciate your offer though. My trans was working perfectly after the rebuild until it started having these symtoms so I tried a different valvebody. So I am not sure it will fix it, but I will try again. This is a great resource (this site). Thanks again for the help

 

[joey0514]

Sure no problem, by the way use brake clearner to clean the V-body it cleans very well. Don't use gas

 

[BrooklynBay]

You have to use either WD-40 or ATF while assembling the parts of the valve body after using brake cleaner. The brake cleaner removes the lubricating film which is left on the inside.

 

[markmonty]

I just brake cleaned the valve body fully assembled and poured some atf in in. Isn't the fluid circulating through it enough?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The parts might bind from the dry bores inside of the valve body without first priming it with a lubricant. The fluid in the pan might not get to all of the parts when you first start it up.

 

[markmonty]

I just pulled the valve body and found aluminum shavings or flakes on the seperator plate near the front. I am wondering if the front one-way clutch went out. Would this any make sense with my symptoms?

 

[Glacier991]

Shavings are clearly not a good sign, and can cause spools to bind... a complete failure of a one way clutch will result of loss of forawrd or reverse motion, or both. I am guessing that in spite of your good efforts with the VB, you have an internal failure either underway or *done*... most likely underway. I fear my best advice is rebuild time.

 

[markmonty]

That's what I was starting to think. I just wonder what went wrong, I just rebuilt it and was very careful in inspecting everything. I appreciate your respose. I will update once it is pulled. Would I still have manual 1st and 2nd if the front one-way clutch was out? Thanks again!!!

 

[markmonty]

Would I still have manual 1st and 2nd if the front one-way clutch was bad?

 

[joey0514]

Well you could have 1 and probably 2 but APMS would be skyhigh. So your better off replaceing the first band or might as well both. Check servos they might need a change too.

 

[markmonty]

The bands and servos are new. What is APMS? Thanks for the reply.

 

[BrooklynBay]

He means RPMs.

 

[markmonty]

Thanks, I was a little confused.

 

[joey0514]

hahhaha, sorry guys Mr. Bay is right, misspell

Did you upgrade your value body by the way. Maybe you misplace something and about the EPC and the rest of the s-noilds as long the frequency are normal they are good to go.

Reading more on ur post I assume its your planet gear. Its made of alum., metal and copper, google it so you know what I'm talking about