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5R55W/S transmission tuning
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Limited02
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I asked him after I took it back if they put Mercon V in or Mercon III, he said Mercon V. I have thought about doing a Amsoil fluid change to see if it helps, but I don't know. Also when I took it back, he said he changed the solenoid pack and turned something to firm up the pressure? Kinda helped but not really. (BTW, this was all a few months ago.)
Jakee
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I see what you're talking about now and it does appear to be the torque convertor being open and then locking up in the middle of the gear. Mine did the same until I got set right.
This is a tough problem but at least the guy actually did something when you took it back. If it were me, I’d change the fluid first. Then data log and get everything set right.
jah81592
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If it was smooth before the rebuild the I wouldn't attribute it to he tune. If you are getting a shutter on the shift what is your band adjusted to? please remember you can not tune out a problem. Also remember you will want the truck to shift 1st to 2nd relatively lower than the rest of the gear contrary to what Jake is stating. There are reasons why I do this, The truck will be faster, if you look at a dyno graph these trucks don't make power after 5500-5600 rpm anyway so spinning them higher won't speed the vehicle up. If you tune around a problem you still have that a problem, please ensure that the problem is rectified before tuning takes place. Finally you don't want the converter locking and unlocking between shifts, you want to lock it midway through the pull on the top side of 3rd or 4th to eliminate the slip AFTER the vehicle has started moving from the dead stop. A lot of vehicles don't even command lockup at wot due to potential breakage, this trans can handle it but it isn't recommended especially locking and unlocking between gears. I understand there are some trying to help in this thread but they don't understand my reasoning for doing the things I do, my actions are simply stated as that is a typical "Henson tune". I have tested and tested these actions with solid foundations backing them up.
I would like to state that please remember this is amail order tune also, if you had a Pro Racer package such as Jake you could finess even deeper than the end user adjustments allow. I can firm the shifts & raise the 1-2 if you would like. These are parameters which are being brought up the end user will never even be able to see. I hope this helps, to all who have replied thanks for the asistance in this thread God bless-j
I would like to state that please remember this is amail order tune also, if you had a Pro Racer package such as Jake you could finess even deeper than the end user adjustments allow. I can firm the shifts & raise the 1-2 if you would like. These are parameters which are being brought up the end user will never even be able to see. I hope this helps, to all who have replied thanks for the asistance in this thread God bless-j
jah81592
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Btw- this was no means a call out or anything like that so let's keep this civilized,please. There has been some incredible info in this thread. Another thing to remember is step back and take a deep breath, we can get wrapped up in too much techno info blinding us from the obvious. I am known to do this myself. Since my wreck I have learned to relax a lot, believe it or not I am blessed to be here. I really don't want to spend my time arguing with my fellow forum members.
jah81592
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I would like to add is that the base N/V is NOT as important on the newer vehicles as it was on the earlier vehicles and the MPH & RPM shifts should be matched! This sounds as a surefire torque converter shutter problem, I have seen this on many vehicles after the converter has been replaced. Try some Lucas to see if it helps. Again, I don't recommend locking and unlocking the converter between gears. Especially just after the shift because you need the torque multiplication to recover the shifts. If this is what you would like to do we can do this-j
Limited02
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James-You are thinking I have a torque converter shutter? That could be possible because I have done some research that said it could be the problem and when the tranny was rebuilt, they said it had a new trq converter? When you are saying to use some Lucas, do you mean a friction modifier additive? So if I add it and the problem is cured, then what was the problem? If problem not cured, then what does that mean?
Just to clarify, I never meant it was your tune causing the problem, it's if I upped the shift pressure that the problem would go away.
Thanks for everything!!!
Just to clarify, I never meant it was your tune causing the problem, it's if I upped the shift pressure that the problem would go away.
Thanks for everything!!!Jakee
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James - Sorry man, I didn't mean it the way it sounded. I did re-read what I typed and can see how it sounds like I'm saying your tune is the problem. "Typical Henson tune"
I never thought your tune was the problem but feel there are things that can help the problem. The tranny is one big mechanical pc that if everything is not working in sync you get these types of issues that can be called "small, noticeable something is not right, frustrating quirks". I don't feel this is a huge problem that if not address the tranny will blow up. With that said, I feel there can be an adjustment to the tune to help this. The other option is to tear down the tranny. This is something we’re trying to prevent. I fully agree with, you shouldn’t band-aid a problem by tuning, but I feel the tune can do the same exact thing that adding mystery oil can. In other words, this case is an exception to the standard rule. One thing to note is he says when upping the pressure the problem goes away.
By reviewing the vid posted, I noticed the “stagnant” spot in the rpm’s and quickly related to this from when I was tuning. I fixed this by locking the convertor at the right spots. It’s trial and error and is next to impossible to send out a “canned tune” and have it perfect because of every vehicle being a little different. One canned tune will work perfect for my vehicle, and not so perfect on the next. Keep in mind this “stagnant” RPM problem is not the shudder problem being described, which we didn’t see on the vid.
What I meant by the low shift from 1st to 2nd is I had your tranny tunes and I remember them shifting real early out from first to second. At first, it made the vehicle seem faster just because the owner will not be used to their truck shifting this fast. But like you, I started timing things and found improvements. The reason I feel holding the RPM’s longer in first helps, is not where it shifts from doing this, but where the RPM’s land after the shift. You may have it right with the canned tune where the vehicle will be in the best optimal power range thru the gear, but I did find improvement here.
As far as the locking and unlocking the torque convertor goes, my view may be different. I’ve found that, keeping the torque convertor locked as much as possible, helps reduce times. Really, I shouldn’t have to prove this one bit. When a torque convertor is not locked, it’s slipping. When it’s locked, it’s not slipping. Further more, slipping causes friction and friction causes heat. Heat is the number one reason for transmission failure, so for me it’s very easy. We’re working with 5 speed trannies here so we don’t have the problem of “bog” from locking the convertor too fast. On other transmissions, locking the convertor too fast may result in a “bog”. Then, and only then is where I would keep the convertor open a bit longer. If you’re concerned about the tranny breaking then I would experiment with the torque reduction tables and not the convertor tables.
These are my experiences only, and the bottom line is trail and error with the particular transmission being tuned. James probably has three times more experience than I do so his views shouldn't be taken lightly. I would like to see more information in this thread.
I never thought your tune was the problem but feel there are things that can help the problem. The tranny is one big mechanical pc that if everything is not working in sync you get these types of issues that can be called "small, noticeable something is not right, frustrating quirks". I don't feel this is a huge problem that if not address the tranny will blow up. With that said, I feel there can be an adjustment to the tune to help this. The other option is to tear down the tranny. This is something we’re trying to prevent. I fully agree with, you shouldn’t band-aid a problem by tuning, but I feel the tune can do the same exact thing that adding mystery oil can. In other words, this case is an exception to the standard rule. One thing to note is he says when upping the pressure the problem goes away.
By reviewing the vid posted, I noticed the “stagnant” spot in the rpm’s and quickly related to this from when I was tuning. I fixed this by locking the convertor at the right spots. It’s trial and error and is next to impossible to send out a “canned tune” and have it perfect because of every vehicle being a little different. One canned tune will work perfect for my vehicle, and not so perfect on the next. Keep in mind this “stagnant” RPM problem is not the shudder problem being described, which we didn’t see on the vid.
What I meant by the low shift from 1st to 2nd is I had your tranny tunes and I remember them shifting real early out from first to second. At first, it made the vehicle seem faster just because the owner will not be used to their truck shifting this fast. But like you, I started timing things and found improvements. The reason I feel holding the RPM’s longer in first helps, is not where it shifts from doing this, but where the RPM’s land after the shift. You may have it right with the canned tune where the vehicle will be in the best optimal power range thru the gear, but I did find improvement here.
As far as the locking and unlocking the torque convertor goes, my view may be different. I’ve found that, keeping the torque convertor locked as much as possible, helps reduce times. Really, I shouldn’t have to prove this one bit. When a torque convertor is not locked, it’s slipping. When it’s locked, it’s not slipping. Further more, slipping causes friction and friction causes heat. Heat is the number one reason for transmission failure, so for me it’s very easy. We’re working with 5 speed trannies here so we don’t have the problem of “bog” from locking the convertor too fast. On other transmissions, locking the convertor too fast may result in a “bog”. Then, and only then is where I would keep the convertor open a bit longer. If you’re concerned about the tranny breaking then I would experiment with the torque reduction tables and not the convertor tables.
These are my experiences only, and the bottom line is trail and error with the particular transmission being tuned. James probably has three times more experience than I do so his views shouldn't be taken lightly. I would like to see more information in this thread.
jah81592
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Agreed! The main way to tell if the convertor locking will yield improved times is to make a change and see if the results are positive or negative. It is impossible to be able to massage the shifts remotely as it would be if you (the person tuning0 were able sit in the vehicle. Any type of Slick 50 trans or something similar.
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