5R55W Solenoid Block Replacement

[BrooklynBay]

Did that place contact you at any point? I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't.

 

[Blackexplorer06]

Did that place contact you at any point? I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't.

Nope. Never responded to my emails. never answered the phone, part never arrived. He also never responded to Paypal. So the refund was made.

 

[hacksaw]

OK, 02 XLT 4.6. Have had it since 04. Was wife's dd, kept it for 2nd car and for son's to use. Oldest is almost 17. 259000, replaced original transmission at 100K and engine at 150K.
Just dealt with a couple of bad fuel injectors, drive belt pulleys, fan clutch, heater valve.
Trying to get the emissions inspection done when the O/D light started blinking and CEL came on.
P0745 code.
I didn't drive it alot once the CEL came on but it did not shift hard, did seem to hunt for 2/3rd or maybe 3/4 once going uphill.
Looking for some advice.
If I check the band adjustment, I should be able to get a pretty good idea if a band is broken?
If the bands are ok, next likely culprit is the solenoid pack?
I'm not adverse to changing the pack but that would be where I stop.
Don't want to put a re manufactured trans in some thing that might be worth 3K on a good day.
Also, no garage so it's blocks, ramps and jack stands in the driveway on my back and although I enjoy the tremendous amount of knowledge on this site I don't need a hobby car.
Thanks.

 

[Blackexplorer06]

No expert but from reading and working on my Explorer 3 things. Solenoid block. Servo bore wear, valvebody gasket, they blow out.
I replaced my solenoid block and it was a waste of time. It can be tested with a meter. If you can torque the OD band to 10 ft lbs then it's not broken. 10 ft lbs and then back out two turns is the adjustment.
Youtube videos on all of these. The valve body gaskets fail as well as springs wear out. If the band is good. Check the solenoid block, if it tests good investigate the valve body.

 

[jyates]

i have a 2002 xlt 4.0 v6, about 198000 miles. i have a harsh thump when put in reverse or drive, a thump when i make a quick stop and the transmission shifts down, occasional slip in first from a stop, and i have to let off the gas peddle to shift from second to third gear. no check engine light or flashing od light. i have checked the fluid level and it trickles out when the motor is running. anybody have any idea where to start?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check the band adjustment to see if you have a broken band.

 

[Blackexplorer06]

i have a 2002 xlt 4.0 v6, about 198000 miles. i have a harsh thump when put in reverse or drive, a thump when i make a quick stop and the transmission shifts down, occasional slip in first from a stop, and i have to let off the gas peddle to shift from second to third gear. no check engine light or flashing od light. i have checked the fluid level and it trickles out when the motor is running. anybody have any idea where to start?

Where to start? Drop the pan. Look for metal.

 

[bdashill]

Did solenoid pack change and now no shifting at all.

Thanks for posting this, it was well done and very helpful.

Unfortunately I ran into an issue after the solenoid replacement and was hoping someone might have an idea of what may have went wrong or what I can check.

Quick background of car/issues and why I attempted the solenoid replacement:

O/D light started months ago, followed a few months later by slipping going from 2nd to 3rd causing me to have to release/reapply gas pedal for it to shift.
Went and got codes read: P0733, P0741, P0745
Milage: 185,000
Explorer 2002 XLT
I realize that the servo bore fix is likely needed as well, but I wanted to do this first and then that fix second.


I reviewed the steps here and watched the youtube video countless times before attempting the replacement myself yesterday. I am very meticulous and followed each step perfectly(or so I thought) and didn't run into any trouble except for one snapped pan bold upon removal. I cleared the PCM, and began to proceed with the shift "learning" process. I started her up to back it out of the garage. The shifter moved fine though every gear (P,R,N,D,3,2,1) however I didn't feel or hear any shifting going on and the car will not move. It revs and purrs great, just no shifting whatsoever. I can press the O/D switch on and off and it illuminates as normal now.

Anything I can check or any idea of what might have happened during the solenoid swap that may cause this? Bad solenoid pack? Something fouling the solenoid pack connector? A fuse? I also replaced the trans filter, and used Mercon V.

Thanks any suggestions.
-Bill

 

[BrooklynBay]

Maybe the O ring seals on the filter aren't good or the filter is for a 2WD instead of a 4WD (short sump instead of a long sump). It's possible that the replacement solenoid block might be bad. Connect a 0 - 300 PSI test gauge to check the main pressure, and the EPC pressure. Double check the fluid level.

 

[bdashill]

Thanks for the suggestions. The filter appeared completely identical to the one I took out. The o-rings looked good too. I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...Code=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=DQINBACM77DCJGFK

I'll have to look up testing the pressure as you suggested.

Luckily I was basically waiting for the car to die as we are soon getting another, so it's not vital I get it running.

That being said, out of curiosity I decided to swap back the solenoid packs to see if it was indeed the new solenoid that was faulty. An interesting thing happened. We got it all back together, filled the fluid, etc. Started her up, I went through the gears and she shifted once again as normal. I did not move it, put her back in park and turned off the car. Then the next time we started it up a few minutes later, no shifting again (shifter moves, but no sound/action happening in trans). So I'm at a loss. Perhaps I should take the new filter back out and put the old one back in as that is the only other new part. Fun stuff.

 

[JethroBodine]

Sounds like it might be mechanical. You sure linkage is working right? (the shift lever is actually doing anything down at the transmission?)

 

[bdashill]

Well it just gets more confusing.

After verifying the linkage is fine and double checking the electrical connector, we decided to test the theory that the fluid level is just not high enough to allow shifting. (even though I followed the steps of adding 5-6qts, starting, shifting then adding more, until hot enough, then let drain until it drips, etc).

So I pumped in a couple more quarts without letting it drain, sure enough it shifted fine.

So now that this showed me it wasn't a bad solenoid, I decided to put the new solenoid back in since I already paid for it and because it's new. Followed the solenoid swap steps again. Put in all new fluid again. Waited for the stream to change to drips (which was at least 2 quarts of solid stream until the dripping), capped it. AGAIN no shifting. So pumped 2 quarts back into it and even though when I removed the hose it started a solid stream again... I didn't wait this time and just capped it. It shifts again.

So not sure what in the heck is going on. Apparently on my car, waiting until the stream slows is too low for my trans to function.

I verified I do have the standpipe. I also verified that the sump is as long on the new filter as on the old. Is there some way I could've installed the new filter too high? I made sure the old filter o-rings were removed from the hole and that the new filter had new o-rings. We are stumped.

 

[JK080]

Are you doing the fluid fill with the engine running?

The engine must be running to fill the transmission to the correct level.

 

[Dan East]

I'm just beginning down the path of (maybe) fixing this issue on my Eddie Bauer 2005 Explorer (140k miles). It has gotten to where it has trouble shifting from 2nd to 3rd if any torque is on the transmission. If I'm going downhill then it shifts smooth, but if I'm accelerating or going up a grade, it can't shift. O/D light starts flashing and "Check Transmission" shows when this happens.

My first question is how can I determine if I have the 5R55W or the 5R55S, or does it even make any difference as far as the solenoid goes?

I have read that training the MCU is usually needed. An instructional video online said to disconnect the battery cables, then connect them together for a few minutes to discharge the capacitor and reset the MCU. Is there any point at all in doing this first to see if it fixes the problem?

My plan is:
1) Drain and remove pan from transmission and inspect for any loose parts.
2) Check the band adjustment to see if band is broken. Do I have to remove the solenoid block for this? If the band is broken can I replace it with the transmission on the vehicle?
3) Inspect the solenoid, particularly the wiring and connections, check for any metal debris.
4) If #1 , #2 and #3 look good, then order a new solenoid block.

Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Dan East]

Here's what I found. The intermediate band anchor was lying in the bottom of the pan. I can't tell if anything is wrong with the intermediate band itself. Here's a video:
http://youtu.be/L22Vt1FrCQ0

The question I ask in the video is if the anchor (if that's what it's called) can be put back in place if the band is not broken with the transmission in the vehicle? Or it is impossible that the anchor has come loose without the band breaking?

Thanks!

 

[JK080]

Here's what I found. The intermediate band anchor was lying in the bottom of the pan. I can't tell if anything is wrong with the intermediate band itself. Here's a video:
http://youtu.be/L22Vt1FrCQ0

The question I ask in the video is if the anchor (if that's what it's called) can be put back in place if the band is not broken with the transmission in the vehicle? Or it is impossible that the anchor has come loose without the band breaking?

Thanks!

That anchor in your video can be installed back on the band without removing the tranny. That is if the other anchor on the servo side hasn't fallen off as well, or if the band is not broken on the other side. The side of the band that we can see in the video appears to still be intact.

I have never seen a case where the band anchors have fell out and there not be a problem with the band, other than the adjustment screw or servo being removed before the issue.

I personally think the band is broken on the other end and you will have to remove the tranny to at least replace the band.

 

[bdashill]

Well it just gets more confusing.

After verifying the linkage is fine and double checking the electrical connector, we decided to test the theory that the fluid level is just not high enough to allow shifting. (even though I followed the steps of adding 5-6qts, starting, shifting then adding more, until hot enough, then let drain until it drips, etc).

So I pumped in a couple more quarts without letting it drain, sure enough it shifted fine.

So now that this showed me it wasn't a bad solenoid, I decided to put the new solenoid back in since I already paid for it and because it's new. Followed the solenoid swap steps again. Put in all new fluid again. Waited for the stream to change to drips (which was at least 2 quarts of solid stream until the dripping), capped it. AGAIN no shifting. So pumped 2 quarts back into it and even though when I removed the hose it started a solid stream again... I didn't wait this time and just capped it. It shifts again.

So not sure what in the heck is going on. Apparently on my car, waiting until the stream slows is too low for my trans to function.

I verified I do have the standpipe. I also verified that the sump is as long on the new filter as on the old. Is there some way I could've installed the new filter too high? I made sure the old filter o-rings were removed from the hole and that the new filter had new o-rings. We are stumped.

Just wanted to provide an update to my issues. I also realize I probably should've originally started my own thread for my post. My mistake.

Anyways, the reason my car wouldn't budge when I thought I had the right amount of fluid in, turned out to be a faulty trans filter. The "new" one I bought on Amazon must have had a hole somewhere above the standpipe. After buying another filter, that issue was resolved. However my trans adventure was only just getting started. Those details can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430634

Thanks.

 

[chickencheese2]

where is this located

Which is the f37 fuse? Thanks!

Problem solved. First I replaced the solenoid block with the one from the original transmission. There was no change...still not shifting. Then I decided to check the fuses...The F37 fuse needed to be replaced.

 

[mall]

Which is the f37 fuse? Thanks!

It is under the hood, I think it is on the drivers side. When you take the cover off of the fuse box it will be labled F37

 

[Joemoris]

2004 Explorer 5R55s

Long time reader here-great forums have already saved me time and money!

On the P0775/p0795 code I have read about 200 posts on, but still am unsure if I need the replacement plunger or solenoid pack. I felt the inside of the bores and they felt smooth. 04 Explorer 2wd 110K miles 2nd 3rd shift issue O/D blinking etc. Reverse delayed /engages hard. Just started revving higher and not shifting etc. last 200 miles or so.

Servo bores felt smooth and even, had minor metallic flakes in pan. I have picture gallery uploaded. My question before I drop the $ into solenoid pack is-do I have the bore issue?

Thanks in advance-this forum worth its weight in gold!