5R55W Solenoid Block Replacement | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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5R55W Solenoid Block Replacement

I have purchased a solenoid block which was advertised as new, however, it was not in a sealed package. It was wrapped inside of a transparent plastic bag. Marked as Bosch, while the one that came out is marked as FoMoCo.
Had it replaced, but bump in engaging reverse from D is still there. Sometimes still shifts with bumps.

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Hi, I write from Venezuela, and I know how much money it costs the body of the box solenoid explorer 5R55W to 2005

Just replaced my solenoid block with a brand new one...also changed the filter while I was in there.

Refill took a little over 5 quarts.

Great writeup!

Edit: After driving for 2 days I have no more intermittent flaring during shifts and no more hard engagement when switching from D to R and vice versa! Problems solved!

I have to say gentlemen, this is one of the best written and updated tech threads I've seen in about 9 years of posting on auto forums. Awesome job!

I used the original posters procedure to do the solenoid pack replacement today (actually my brother did the work as I'm 3 weeks removed from shoulder surgery). Did the whole thing stem to stern as written. Unfortunately it did not help my problems. My symptoms are very similar but slightly different than most here. My '04 4.0 is not shifting into 2nd until 3000 or more RPM's regardless of throttle pressure. I have the "O/D OFF" light flashing and a recurring P0745 code locked in. Also, it will not go into 5th at all under any circumstances, even if the "O/D OFF" light is not flashing. Thus far I have done:

Fluid flush and fill
Band adjustment
Solenoid pack replacement

One thing that I have been doing that I have not read of anyone else doing is manually shifting with the column shifter. From a dead stop I pull it all the way to first, then at ~2500RPM I move to second and let off the gas and it shifts reasonably smooth, again around 2500 RPM, I move to 3rd...and then into Drive. Each shift is fairly smooth with little slippage. But the MIL and O/D lights still do their thing.

I have not tried having the ECU flashed by the Ford dealership, but I plan on giving that a try Monday morning.

I am just about ready to chuck this trans and buy another one because I'm at my wits end with it. However after shelling out about a grand for out of pocket surgery expenses plus the $400 for the solenoid pack, I'm a little short on cash at the moment. Do these symptoms sound like I'm a candidate for a valve body rebuild if the ECU flash doesn't work? I have little issue with dropping the pan and yanking that thing off to fix it IF I have reasonable expectation that it will fix the problem.

Oh yes, and my wife is just about tired of driving my POS Hyundai beater now. She wants the Explorer back.

One more thing, pumping fluid back into the transmission was a piece of cake with the hand pump that was mentioned in an earlier post. I used it along with a 1/4" hose X 1/8NPT male fitting to screw into the center plug of the drain bolt. Whoever dug up that gem of knowledge deserves a damn medal! The last time I did a transmission fluid change I spent 2 hours squeezing fluid back in via a trans cooler soft line near the radiator.

I have these identical issues with an 04 Mountaineer. Would love to know if you found a resolution.

Good evening all. My buddy sent me this link so I could take a look before I do this repair on his car, but I have a quick question. Why are you pumping the oil up into the pain from the drain? Why not just fill from up top? Is there a specific reason? Thanks for the help!

I was wondering if that was the case.....why any company ever designed things that way I have no idea :( Is the fill device mentioned readily available at a Ford Dealer, or is that a special order type of thing?

Thanks very much for your quick response. Just trying to help my buddy out, he got raped at the dealership recently and I'm doing my best to help a newly married military buddy save some cash! LOL

Thanks again.

R/R Ford Solenoid Body

Explorer Forum/Members,


O/D light blinking.
Code P0796-Solenoid stuck open.
Shifting hard/banging to 3rd gear.

Solution to problem:

Removed and replaced with new Ford Solenoid Body with “Borland” incredible instructions and now shifting smooth and O/D light is off.

Thank you “Bosland” and the rest of the Explorer Forum/Members!!!

2002 Ford Explorer XLT
5R55W Transmission

had code p0775 solenoid b failed. solenoid ran for $290 plus new filter and 5 quarts of fluid. ecerything was roughly $400. took about 2 hours to replace everything thanks to this great post. I have been driving it for two days now. od is not flashing, service engine light is gone. car shifts so much better now. no more jerking from reverse to drive and other way around. only down side is this money was supposed to go for upper control arms for my spacers lift. now i have to postpond it for another week. Sorry Brandon:)

Hey guys, I'm hoping a few members can chime in....

My O/D light is flashing, no Check Engine light, it shifts fine though rpms are high when in OD at highway speeds....

1) Should i attempt to replace the solenoid pack?

2) the instructions on the thread are awesome thanks for the thread OP. does the solenoid pack just unbolt and bolt the new one into place? is there anything that your transfer from the old pack to the new one?

3) do i have to watch out for anything falling out when i unbolt it?

Thanks guys....

The flashing O/D light indicates that there's a code since that's the equivalent of a check transmission light. You will need to use a scanner capable of reading manufacturer specific transmission codes.

i checked and the code read P0741 any thoughts....

I'm reading that it could be the torque converter as well so it sounds like a complete overhaul....

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From what i'm gathering reading every thread on this board for 2 days sounds like a torque converter & transmission overhaul......