$725 to replace fuel pump?

[bullnerd]

Yeah i think i'll do that,maybe a couple tanks worth.
Actually when i pulled the filter from the car and dumped the fuel out,the side towards the engine was clear gas,the side towards the tank looked like mud.

Also i think i jumped the gun on the stuttering thing,its better now,i think it must have still been working out the sea foam.

Side note,i also bought a standard brand FP relay just in case mine was bad...says made in CHINA on it.

 

[bullnerd]

WooHoo!,more than a week and the truck still runs fine!

 

[Ernestoglz_78]

Although its old, nice write up, helped me find a good pump for my 01 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0, this is the third time Im lowering the tank for pump replacement, I got an Airtex from ebay for around $145 lasted like six months then got a free replacement, lasted 2 months, those are crappy pumps wont depend on them no more, think I will go with Walbro (Delphi), thanks!!

 

[roboron13]

lol, yeah 4 hours is BS. I had to replace the fuel pump on mine. After getting familiar with it, I had that tank dropped in 5 minutes! Its relatively easy to drop and putting the pump in the assemble is cake.

Im an experienced mechanic and it took me over 6hrs in my driveway to do it cuz every bolt and screw or clamp was severly rusted. So its all in the condition of the vehicle. The one i did was at 178k and o.e.pump so it was pretty bad shape.

 

[lorraine1]

fuel pump

you have a link to the carter pump?

 

[bullnerd]

Still going strong on the walbro at 230k.

Rest of the truck is getting rickety!

 

[Fiophill]

Hi the electrical connection/block on the top of the fuel pump assembly is that just a connector? I've got voltage on the pink and black from inertia and wondering can I just run that straight to the pump or does it have to go through that electrical block?

 

[koda2000]

I'm not sure what you're trying to do. Are you trying to replace the existing power and ground wire to the fuel pump? If so, are you sure they're bad? You'll still need to keep the fuel gauge sender wire(s) and you will need to retain the plug to the fuel tank as it seals the top of the tank.

 

[Fiophill]

Well the fuel pump wasn't running I have 12V on the pink and black from the inertia cut off switch but nothing going down to the pump on the red and white wire from that electrical block on the top. And just don't know what's in that block and as it's spot welded or riveted on I didn't fancy ripping it off to have a look so figured I'd ask

 

[koda2000]

Well the fuel pump wasn't running I have 12V on the pink and black from the inertia cut off switch but nothing going down to the pump on the red and white wire from that electrical block on the top. And just don't know what's in that block and as it's spot welded or riveted on I didn't fancy ripping it off to have a look so figured I'd ask

I've had the tank and pump out of my '97 (should be the same as a '98 I think). Other than having the return fuel line, and the absence of the in-tank FPR like my 2000's and 2001's have, I found very little difference in the assemblies/wiring. I don't know what "block" you are referring to. There's really no magic associated with the fuel pump wiring. Just some electrical connectors.

When testing for power at the pump, you are aware that the fuel pump only receives 12V power for 2-3 seconds when the key is turned to the ON position?

 

[Fiophill]

I've had the tank and pump out of my '97 (should be the same as a '98 I think). Other than having the return fuel line, and the absence of the in-tank FPR like my 2000's and 2001's have, I found very little difference in the assemblies/wiring. I don't know what "block" you are referring to. There's really no magic associated with the fuel pump wiring. Just some electrical connectors.

When testing for power at the pump, you are aware that the fuel pump only receives 12V power for 2-3 seconds when the key is turned to the ON position?

I've tried to upload a photo onto photobucket but all I get is adds and prize wins so that's not an option. But yes I am aware it only runs for 2-3seconds which is why I by passed the relay... Although I'm assuming that's where the 3 seconds comes from? I thought I could see the block in the picture already on this thread but on second look I can't could UK models be different?

 

[Fiophill]

I've had the tank and pump out of my '97 (should be the same as a '98 I think). Other than having the return fuel line, and the absence of the in-tank FPR like my 2000's and 2001's have, I found very little difference in the assemblies/wiring. I don't know what "block" you are referring to. There's really no magic associated with the fuel pump wiring. Just some electrical connectors.

When testing for power at the pump, you are aware that the fuel pump only receives 12V power for 2-3 seconds when the key is turned to the ON position?

I've tried to upload a photo onto photobucket but all I get is adds and prize wins so that's not an option. But yes I am aware it only runs for 2-3seconds which is why I by passed the relay... Although I'm assuming that's where the 3 seconds comes from? I thought I could see it in the picture already on this thread but on second look I can't could UK models be different?

 

[Fiophill]

(dead link)
I tried instagram... Same profile name.

 

[meyek91974]

How do you remove the quick disconnect fuel line at the top of the gas tank if the fuel link just won't release??? I am using a disconnect tool.it's loose enough to wiggle or rotate but will NOT let go of the fuel line - HELP

Sooo.
I checked the voltage at the connector before the pump-momentary 12v ,then it drops to 6v.,hopefully thats right because i dont know.

Pull the pump ,fuel line at the top of the tank was the most time consuming part,that thing just did not want to release.

Remove the pump from hangar,bench test pump-it runs!

Rehang the pump,connect the plug to the truck,turn the key-it runs!

Is this common?Is it only running because i banged it around it just happens to be in the right spot on the brushes?Is there something else i should check?

Hate to replace it and have a different problem,although i dont see what else it could be.

Thanks again guys,i really need your help.

 

[koda2000]

How do you remove the quick disconnect fuel line at the top of the gas tank if the fuel link just won't release??? I am using a disconnect tool.it's loose enough to wiggle or rotate but will NOT let go of the fuel line - HELP

I don't bother to remove the fuel line from the top of the tank anymore. You can remove the assembly from the tank w/out disconnecting the fuel line. Then just drape the assembly over the leaf spring to work on replacing the pump. There's no reason to replace the FP assembly unless your fuel gauge is not working.

Trying to release the fuel line from the assembly is a major PITA. Worse than replacing the fuel filter, mainly because you have no way to stop things from moving around. I've done it with a 3/8's metal disconnect tool, but it wasn't easy. Probably took me 2 hours, before I found the right tool.