911 Brake caliper not retracting

[wheiss71]

My caliper won't retract. Seems like it wants to but no joy. I have the tool to push it back in but the caliper is extended to far to get the backing plate in place

Ideas and solutions needed ASAP.

 

[JE]

You need a big C clamp (or an F-style clamp maybe) that can allow you to push it back in using the back of the caliper as leverage.

 

[wheiss71]

Broke the one I had, did loan a tool. Got it fixed but DANG!!!!!

 

[dco43054]

You need a big C clamp (or an F-style clamp maybe) that can allow you to push it back in using the back of the caliper as leverage.

NOT IF IT IS THE REAR CALIPER!

You must rotate the rear piston while compressing. The caliper tools you can borrow from most auto parts stores will allow you to do that. You rotate the handle while keeping tension on the nut. I think I initially had to use a wrench to gently apply pressure to the nut while rotating the handle.

From the looks of the bend in the handle on the tool I borrowed, either some calipers require more force than mine, or the tool was being used wrong. Mine did not take an excessive amount of force to rotate the handle to retract the piston while gently following it with the nut on the device..

As for the fronts, they are dual pistons and you have to push them back in together. I just used a short piece of thick home show giveaway yard stick to span them and gently pushed them back in with a C clamp.

 

[wheiss71]

Same thing here, was a pain in the butt.

NOT IF IT IS THE REAR CALIPER!

You must rotate the rear piston while compressing. The caliper tools you can borrow from most auto parts stores will allow you to do that. You rotate the handle while keeping tension on the nut. I think I initially had to use a wrench to gently apply pressure to the nut while rotating the handle.

From the looks of the bend in the handle on the tool I borrowed, either some calipers require more force than mine, or the tool was being used wrong. Mine did not take an excessive amount of force to rotate the handle to retract the piston while gently following it with the nut on the device..

As for the fronts, they are dual pistons and you have to push them back in together. I just used a short piece of thick home show giveaway yard stick to span them and gently pushed them back in with a C clamp.

 

[JE]

Ah, yeah, didn't realize the Ex is using the type that needs to be twisted. I have done it before (on a VW) using a short piece of wood between the clamp and the piston. Put a little pressure on with the clamp and twist with the wood. Then you have to loosen it up and move the wood back and repeat the process. It's slower going than with the tool, but can be done.

For what it's worth, I bought a K-D caliper tool set for something like $50 or $60. It is really solid and has worked on everything I've used it on (but for double piston you do need a small piece of scrap wood as mentioned above.)

 

[96EXXLTinCO]

I normally use the old brake pad to span the two pistons. If you do not have a c-clamp to use, you can also use a small pry bar between the rotor and pad while the caliper is still bolted on, just apply some pressure and loosen the bleeder. Be ready to catch the brake fluid because it's coming out the bleeder. Also, pry with the end of the pry bar pressing against the old brake pad and using the outer edge of the rotor as the leverage point so as not to mar up your rotor if you're not replacing it.