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92 brake (or should i say BREAK)s

Adam Foote

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Joined
December 9, 2001
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City, State
Katy, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XLT
Hey does anyone have an idea of how much a new front rotor and brake pad may cost for a 92 explorer? this could mean the life or death of my truck, parents think its a money pit and want to sell! if i have to sell im hoping for a broncho but wish me luck
thanks
 



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JC Whitney sells cross drilled rotors (both) for like 62 bucks, and a pair of pads for like 28.

how will the one brake be the deciding factor if your rents sell the X or not?
 






my parents

my parents think that i spend to much money on it and they spend some to and they think its a money pit, almost all of my probs are with my engine, and im going to try to talk them into putting a 5.0 in it
thanks for your help.
Happy Wheelin
 






labor

is it hard to do these yourself? is there any way my stepdad and i could do it ourselves, we just want to save that money
thanks, what about a new caliper, not sure if we need one
 






It is a pretty easy job.

Here is an install article I wrote on installing ART rotors. This will give you an idea of what you are doing. I didn't go into installing the pads, since that is the really easy part.

http://mark.legendz.com/explorer/art/art1.htm

~Mark
 






I got my newest set of rotors at Napa for less than $40 each. Pads range anywhere from $15 to $50 a set. Whatever you do, don't buy the performance friction pads at Autozone...they're stronger than the rotor and therefore the rotor will wear before the pads do.

Pads are simple to change.

-Jack up front wheel
-Remove wheel
-Use a punch or larger screwdriver and hammer to drive out the two pins on the caliper. It's fairly easy to see how this works...there are two little bumps on each end of the pins to hold them in place. Just angle the punch or screwdriver the right direction, pop them a couple times with the hammer and they will slide right out the back.
-Remove the caliper...you may have to tap it with the hammer, but it'll slide off pretty easy.
-Set the caliper on top of the shock mount or wire it up to the spring or something...don't let it hang.
-Take a large c-clamp or clamp of some sorts to press the caliper piston back into the caliper...stop just before it becomes flush with the caliper. Use an old brake pad or piece of steel across the caliper to ensure the piston goes back in straight.
-Take off the old pads and then put the new rear one in on the back of the rotor and the new front one on the caliper...it should have clips to hold it in place. (rear being the back of the rotor, front being towards you..)
-Replace the caliper, pins, wheel, lower the vehicle, tighten lug nuts again, and REPEAT on other side.

My advice is to go ahead and replace the rotors and then plan on changing the pads about every six to eight months. 92's have horrible brake systems....I've went through several rotors and too many sets of pads to even count. Don't tell your parents this of course...cause the explorer is an awesome vehicle...and not really that hard to work on.

Randy
 






We used to go through rotors about every 6 months or so.. Which is why we went to the ART rotors. We now have close to 100k miles on these rotors.. Never had them turned.. and are on our 2nd set of pads and they are still Flat.

Since going to the ART rotors with Performance Friction pads the braking of our X is much better and the wear is great.

ART rotors are about $300ish a set (with pads) but are worth the extra money.

~Mark
 






about what is the cost of labor on rotors and pads though? thanks
 






do it your self. its not a hard thing to do. just takes a bit of time, maybe an hour or hour and a half per wheel if you do it alone. if you decide to get new calipers ( www.ssbrakes.com ), then you'll need a brake bleed kit. that reminds me to check my DOT 3 tomorrow, thanks...

i still dont know what is better though, Cross Drilled rotors or Vented Rotors.

once i get the Jeep i will be doing the Stillen Disc brake upgrade (stock ZJ rotors are 2 peice and they warp very easily, the stillen's are one peice and are very good)

glad i could help.

tip: when you jack the car up and take the wheel off, place it under the frame. that way, if one of your jack stands fails, the frame will hit the wheel, and not drop all the way to the ground. at the most, you would need to use your spare rim/tire and replace the damaged one (4k LBs of car falling on a rim might damage it. if its damaged, get it replaced)
 






HEY MANIAK

Hey maniak, how much did it cost for the ART( by the way what does that stand for) rotors, the pads, and having them installed, and how long did it take them to do it
thanks
 






i still dont know what is better though, Cross Drilled rotors or Vented Rotors.

well they dont offer cross drilled for 4wd anyways so thats outta the question, atleast they didnt in jcwhitney when i looked
 






just found this site....perfect for you....

Dead Link Removed
 






in the cross-drilled/vented/slotted rotor debate....

all i know is that slotted rotors "sweep" the pad clean of brake dust and fling it out (hence the curved shape). the less dust, the more contact the pad will have with the rotor, and the better the braking. also, it will be able to withstand higher temperatures.

just a nugget of information.
 






Adam,
A set of Rotors with Pads, last I heard, was about $325. Dean @ ART is great to talk to, will take the time to explain something and is responsive to calls/emails etc..

ART stands for Applied rotor Technology. I think Rick has a set on his Dana 44 (on the great pumpkin)

Their web site is http://www.appliedrotortechnology.com/
Their phone number is (805)583-4624

the contact name I have written down is Dean.

Weebo,
The article you found at www.ford-trucks.com is actually my article (see higher in the thread).. I have a few on their site..

The ford-trucks.com site is a good site for ford vehicles.. Not quite as good as this site is for the X, but much better than I've seen for most other types of vehicles.

~Mark
 






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