92 Dead on side of road

[Random250]

I'm a horrible person. Been coming here for years (since at least 2003), but hadn't joined up yet. Now that I have it's cuz I have a problem that I can't beat on my own. I've gotten alot of good info from this forum, but so far I'm striking out here.

I have a 92 Eddie Bauer 4x4. Got her for $300 after the storm. No storm damage. Little problems like the leaking fuel were easily fixed with reference to this site. Fixed the brake lines. Changed the plugs and wires just for the heck of it. Radius arm bushings (made a shortcut. You're not gonna like it, but I swear they're holding up like champs). Still have a coolant leak and the a/c blower motor resistor went goofy. A/C only on high setting and all.

This problem has me grounded. Truck on the side of the road 20 miles away style.

A friend borrowed my truck the other day. He's a dirtbag, but he's my friend. Being a dirtbag, he returned it to me with about a 10th of a tank of gas. At the last minute he needed a ride to the airport. He had to put $20 in the tank. Drove him to the airport pushing her rather hard so I could get to work on time. Dropped him off. While driving away I hit a small bump. The dip and upswell for an onramp. As soon as I did the dash lights dimmed a bit and I lost power. Brakes went wooden. Power steering went away and no acceleration. Coasted up the ramp, then down the other side. No start. Starter would turn. Just wouldn't "catch". Listened. That neat noise from the fuel pump wasn't there. It used to be quite noticeable. Nothing. Tried the fuses in the distribution box. Tried the shut-off switch. (Didn't even know we had one of those til I was searching here this morning.) No dice. Unhooked the fuel line at the engine and turned ignition. Not a dribble. Not even a bubble. Replaced the fuel pump sending unit maybe 9 months ago. No problems til now.
Plugs and plug wires were 2 weeks ago and it was running well.

$300 on a truck that ran for 2 years isn't bad, but now I like the stupid thing and I don't want her to die.

 

[Tbars4]

...i would change both battery cables first just to eliminate the short from corrosion inside the cables....i am thinking your battery is about drained and a cable short is not enough power to run everything...when you hit that bump, something shorted big time or broke....just my guess?...:scratch:

 

[cjones101812]

what is the fuel pressure?? if 0, then check for power at the Inertia Fuel Cutoff Swt. if power, then check for power at the fuel pump (POS and ground)

 

[IZwack]

Definitely check the electrical wiring around the battery and starter. Remove the battery clamps and give them a good cleaning and re-install. If a + wire did come off the starter, it could have caused a short so you may also want to bring a spare battery with you when you go back to the vehicle.

 

[Fordmandan87]

some thing shorted out 4 sure your new best friend is going to be a digital multimeter

 

[awood]

Engine cranks, but no start...and no noise from the pump? Battery cables are an issue, but I don't think they apply here. If you have zero fuel pressure you'll have all the above symptoms. The lights dimming, etc could just be because the engine quit. Even though the pump is relatively new, it could still be bad. But first check all the wiring and connectors back at the tank. Then find your EEC test terminal. On my 92 it's next to the air filter box, aft side. As you're looking at the terminal, there's six connectors. Four big ones in the middle and two smaller ones on either side. Put a jumper wire to ground on the small connector on the right hand side (as you're looking at it) and the fuel pump should operate. (I can't remember, but I think the key needs to be "on") This connector is there to test the fuel pump pressure without needing to start the engine. If you don't hear the pump, I'd suspect it's bad...as long as your wiring to it is okay.

Also, check the power distribution box (where the big relays and fuses are, including the fuel pump relay) in the engine compartment. Make sure everything is seated good and tight. I've heard of connections coming loose UNDERNEATH the box. Maybe have someone try to start while you wiggle the wires around it. A fuel pump relay is a good, cheap part to shotgun it with too.

 

[Random250]

Jeez, please read this

AAAhhhh. I'm an idiot. Just remembered something I didn't put in my original post. A friend borrowed my car last week and left the ignition on, draining the battery. I attempted to use a portable jumpstarter twice with no success. Took a minimal charge, but nowhere near enough to turn over. I recharged the jumpstarter and tried again. The second time it even smoked a little at the battery. Now, I'm not a stupid person. I just do ALOT of REALLY stupid things. Didn't find out til I had a friend drive over to jumpstart car to car. We argued for a while about him attaching the cables incorrectly before I remembered that I'm colorblind. No joke. And a little dyslexic. I never thought twice about which was the positive terminal. I WAS SURE. I was wrong. I let him hook it up his way and the truck started and held the charge. Now I'm wondering what kind of damage that could have done. Possibly the cause of my current situation? Anybody?

Well, at least I'm not on the side of the road anymore. Had a friend tow me to my firehouse. Been trouble shooting between rolls. Was hoping it was something as simple as the fuel pump relay, but that hasn't panned out. Disconnected the fuel line at the motor and place paper towels under it hoping for a sign that the pump was receiving the signal and pushing fuel. Tried to replace the old inline fuel filter, but I can't get the ******* off short of breaking the line itself. Not so sure that I'd get a complete blockage that abruptly with no lagging of the engine preceding it.




I hated changing out that fuel pump a few months back. The truck was from up north and has a good amount of rust and stubborn bolts. Haven't seen any indication, but gotta ask. Do we have access to the fuel pump from the rear of the inside cab, or must it be taken from under the truck?

It's a 24hr shift. I'm here til 0700 anyway so if anyone comes up with any ideas throw 'em out there. I'm not going anywhere. Now I'm gonna take a look at that EEC Test Terminal.

 

[Tbars4]

...now how does that work...i was going to be a fireman, but they had seven eye color test and i could not even pass the one with the colored circles, lol...:scratch:

 

[Random250]

Hey man, I can't pass that test either. Luckily not all Fire Depts. test color vision. And many acknowledge that not seeing the numbers in the circles doesn't really apply to everyday firefighting. We just put the wet stuff on the hot stuff. I did install my keyless entry myself. Blew 4 fuses trying to discern pink from purple from tan from red. So, I just won't apply for the bomb squad.

By the by, I jumpered the fuel pump from the EEC tester and got the same old click with no "whirring" noise and no fuel visible when I disconnect the fuel line from where it enters the motor. Still dreading taking this tank off to get to this pump and its wires.

 

[Tbars4]

...check all your fuses...you might have burnt up a couple relays too...:scratch:

 

[awood]

When you talk of your "old filter" that sends up a red flag too (or is that a green flag?) Sorry, I shouldn't make fun of your colorblindness. That could be quite a challenge to deal with sometimes. The bomb squad comment is very funny, by the way !!! Anyway, I would definitely revisit your filter. A good place to see if you have output from the pump would be where you would seperate the filter from its inlet hose. It shouldn't be too difficult to remove, except you'll expect to get gas on you. Do you have a Haynes or a Chilton manual? They are sufficient enough for this kind of work, and should run about 15 bucks at your local autoparts store.

With extra info brings more ideas. You definitely need a good battery. Make sure you have a good one in there, even if it's borrowed from another vehicle.

I hope this helps....

 

[Random250]

Ugghh. I'm trying my damndest not to have to drop this tank. (The truck would have to be removed from the firehouse, and I just plain hate doing it)

Replaced the fuel pump relay. Swapped out the battery. Triple checked the fuses and relays. Cleaned the terminals. Tested the fuel pump from the EEC test and got the click with no "whirring" or fuel. Changed out the fuel filter. Tried testing the voltage at the connector next to and just to the rear of the tank. Got readings with the ignition on and the EEC jumpered (12) and un-jumpered (6). I'm just not smart enough to know if that means anything. Tried wiggling every connection, relay, and wiring harness with it jumpered and could never get the fuel pump to actuate.

Now I'm stepping out for some new battery cables and a crankshaft position sensor (I know it's a longshot, but they're cheap and it makes it FEEL like I'm doing something productive). If my truck hasn't decided to act right once I put those in I'm giving it a 2 week execution date. If it won't get me to and from work it will have to serve as a practical demonstration of the penetration abilities of the 10mm pistol round.

 

[marragtop]

Check the connector wire on the bottom of the inertia switch. It may have come loose when you hit the bump. If the wire is off, it won't 'trip' the switch, but you won't get any juice to the fuel pump. If that checks ok, see if you can verify that you are getting power to the fuel pump. If so, then the problem is going to be the fuel pump.