Yeah, I couldn't find it either. I may have done it on another forum.
In any case, it is super easy.
You will need to pull the wheel, remove any sheet-metal clips that may be over the wheel studs (throw them away -- only there for factory assembly), then slide the hub off of the studs.
Next, remove the "aw-****" clip (a c-clip that is called that because when you try to remove it, the next words out of your mouth are generally...). Use two same-sized screwdrivers to do that - one on each leg, then give them a pop -- gently -- so that the clip moves far enough to grab with a pliers and be removed. Remove the splined washer behind it.
Then, remove the outer spindle nut. It will be made of pressed sheetmetal, and I don't know what size it is. I use a punch and a hammer myself. Lefty-loosey, tap on the edge of a flat and loosen the nut. You can also use a big channel lock pliers. Then, with a pick and/or a magnet, pull out the little wedge from the splines (holds the inner nut in place!). You may have to rock the inner nut a tad just to get it loose enough to slide out. Make sure you remove it, or you will destroy the spindle nut. Remove the inner nut.
This is a GREAT time to inspect your wheel bearings and also to inspect the axle bearing which fits inside the back of the spindle. To do that, you will have several additional steps -- pull the brake calipers, pull the caliper brackets, then remove the rotor by pulling it straight off the spindle. Catch the front bearing as it slides out (in a clean towel). Remove the back grease seal from the rotor and replace it with a new one. Pull the back bearing. Re-pack the bearings with quality grease. (I use a bearing packer and just force out the old grease and wipe it off with a rag. I don't like to dunk bearings in the solvent tank. Seems to cause more problems down the road with grit, which acts like sandpaper inside the bearings!) Pull the spindle nuts - stick a spindle nut back onto the spindle threads - give the NUT a sharp rap to the side with a mallet (don't hit the spindle directly -- or the threads! The spindles can get real stubborn, but generally come off after a few hits.) Look inside the back of the spindle. This is where the axle bearing rides. It is a short needle bearing. If it is rusty or gone, replace it with a new one -- most are gone!
Replace the parts removed in the same order -
(if you pulled the spindle - that goes first, then the rear bearing gets greased and stuck back inside the rotor, the grease seal tapped into place, and the entire rotor assembly stuck back over the spindle -- insert the greased front bearing).
The new nuts WILL require a special tool that you can get at almost any auto parts store. The one from a DANA 44 will fit the nuts - which is a common 4x4 spindle nut size - almost all Ford F 150s, Broncos, etc., used this size.
The INNER nut will have a small peg sticking out of it -- make sure it faces OUT (toward you) -- don't damage it. Tighten the inner nut with the tool until it is snug and the rotor turns somewhat hard. Spin the rotor a few times by hand. This sets the bearings into place. Then, back off the inner nut until it just becomes loose -- then tighten it again just until it just snugs - not tight! The rotor should spin freely, but not wobble. You can "feel" this as you tighten the inner nut.
Then, slide the new washer with the holes over the spindle, lining up the slot in the spindle with the tab on the washer -- AND -- make sure that you get the peg to fit inside one of the holes. You can flip the washer over and the holes will be in a slightly different place, which may help you to find a locating hole. If it still doesn't allow the peg to go into a hole, slightly move the inner nut a tad tighter - do this until the washer lines up with the slot AND the peg.
Now screw on the outer nut. Have one person hold the tool against the nut, while the other gets on the end of the longest bar you have and begins tightening. Just about right is when you lift the truck off the jack stands (you ARE using jacks stands --right?) I may be exaggerating just a bit, but I've found that getting the outer nut tight is the best assurance of keeping the bearing tension where I want it.
Now, you will make sure that the axle shaft is poking out as far as it can (stick a screwdriver into the u-joint behind the spindle and give it a pop outward to seat it into the spindle) and install the splined washer. If everything is right, there will be JUST enough room for the as-**** clip. Tap it into place. Then slide your new hub over the spindle (Don't pack the hub full of grease! Grease is your enemy inside the lock-out! You can add a few drops of motor oil if you like, but that is it.) The hub MUST bottom out against the rotor, if it doesn't, check the aw-**** clip to make sure it is fully seated in its groove. It is held in place by a perfectly-sized hole in the hub, so it must fit correctly.
Stick your wheel back on and test the hubs. Of course, they will work -- that's what manual hubs do...
Just don't forget to lock them in and out when the time is right. Oh, and on snowy days, it won't hurt to lock them in before hand. Then, if you need 4x4, just shift the t-case in when you need it. It will spin the front axle (good for it once in a while - I do it once a month on a rainy day, just to keep everything lubed up in the axle.)
