93 EB Abs/hcu bypass

[backshot]

I have a 1993 EB explorer & need to bypass the ABS/pump/HCU. It does have abs sensors on the front wheels & the HCU is leaking fluid. I can't find a new or used HCU & never liked the ABS on this vehicle to start with. How do I go about bypassing this unit? Is there a proportioning valve in this system or can I just use a "T" fitting to connect both front calipers together? Or can I use a proportioning valve from a non-ABS Explorer? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. I plan on replacing all the brake lines with NicCop when I do this. Thanks!

 

[Roadrunner777]

I did some research on this... a couple of things:
1. This is a common mod done by owners of this general age of Mustang. They are enthusiasts and want to get rid of the weight and bulk. I'd take a look there for exact parts and procedures.
2. It looks to me like the Aerostar might not have had standard ABS, so if you wanted to get as close as possible, you might research those parts.
3. This might not be a bad time to do a rear diff exchange to go to rear discs. I know that sounds like a much larger job, but you might want to read other threads here, it's pretty common, and not at all expensive.

All that said... if the HCU is leaking from a threaded part or port, I might just try to seal it, but that's just me. I['m an old fart and my Explorer is not long for this world due to rust.

Good Luck!

 

[backshot]

Thanks for the reply. My explorer runs great but like yours it's rusting away & just used as a beater for fishing/hunting so a rear diff is a stretch. I'm also an old fart & thought I remembered reading about a bypass on this forum. But when I do a search I get everything but the thread as I remember it. If I remember correctly is was a step by step procedure & listed all the parts needed. Maybe I just had a brain fart & was mistaken. I guess I'll have to dig deeper or go with the Aerostar angle. Thanks!

 

[Roadrunner777]

You're going to be under the truck for many hours doing those new lines... Ibuprofen may be your best friend on this project. The only reason I still drive mine is snow. I have a long driveway and if my wife or I need to get out before our plow guy shows up, it's the only way to go. But, parts are literally falling off the truck. My jack fell out somewhere in town, and my gas filler cover is nowhere to be found. If I could find a low-rust 1st gen explorer, I'd buy it. This truck is so perfect for me, I'd be happy driving them for the rest of my life.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

When I did my solid axle swap, I removed everything to do with the abs. I ran a new hard line from the master to a tee, then to both front brakes. I did the same for the rear too. It should work the same for your situation.

 

[TDG]

If I could find a low-rust 1st gen explorer, I'd buy it. This truck is so perfect for me, I'd be happy driving them for the rest of my life.

You want to tow a 92 (project) Explorer from California?

 

[Roadrunner777]

Oh, that's a bit far, I'm in the mid-west, almost on the Canadian border.... thank you though!

 

[Four0Sport]

When I did my solid axle swap, I removed everything to do with the abs. I ran a new hard line from the master to a tee, then to both front brakes. I did the same for the rear too. It should work the same for your situation.

so you're not running a prop valve at all? just fr line to a t and rear line to a t? hmm.. ive seen it work. guess im overthinking my build

 

[yostyexplorer94]

so you're not running a prop valve at all? just fr line to a t and rear line to a t? hmm.. ive seen it work. guess im overthinking my build

Correct. No prop valve. Brake plumbing is exactly as you described. Stock 1994 Explorer master cylinder. 1979 f150 dana 44 disk brakes front and 1989 8.8 f150 drum brakes on the rear. It stops good imho on 37's. I never felt the need to change anything. I always have wondered if I put a larger master cylinder in it what difference in braking it would make.
You might need a larger master running 1 tons, but I am curious how well it would do on the stock one.

 

[Four0Sport]

Correct. No prop valve. Brake plumbing is exactly as you described. Stock 1994 Explorer master cylinder. 1979 f150 dana 44 disk brakes front and 1989 8.8 f150 drum brakes on the rear. It stops good imho on 37's. I never felt the need to change anything. I always have wondered if I put a larger master cylinder in it what difference in braking it would make.
You might need a larger master running 1 tons, but I am curious how well it would do on the stock one.

I'm running a gas ram2500 master. Fittings same as stock ex fyi.