93 Ex overheating

[Watchman]

Ok - engine turns over - cannot hear fuel pump start in back - usually when you turn the key on you can hear it whirr before you start cranking. checked fuel pump relay get 11V key off, 9.6V with key on. checked connector at tank - get 7.8V with key on.

I have a bad feeling fuel pump is bad. But it is only 3 yrs old and a bear to replace. Done it once and had shops replace 2 other times. What do you think ??

 

[natenkiki2004]

Have a look and no longer be afraid to replace the pump:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182160

 

[Watchman]

Sorry - I've seen this thread - just going to replace fuel pump - checked fuel conn at fuel rail - dry as abone. starter just fried turning over - it's under warranty so going to get a replacement and fuel pump. This job is getting beyond.

 

[Maniak]

I don't like those low voltages you had going "to" the pump. The voltage to the pump should be higher..

Check the voltage at the rollover (inertia switch) that is under the carpet, on the firewall by the trans tunnel (passenger side). It's job is to stop voltage from going back to the pump in case of a roll over or hard hit..

Also, double check you got all the hot and ground wires back on the battery. When I had the trans changed/rebuilt last year they missed 1 ground wire (was lying on the battery box, under the battery) All kinds of things were going on until I hooked it back up..

~Mark

 

[Watchman]

Ok - inertia swithch reads 9.8v but battery is down to 11.9v after all the cranking - I know feel that batt voltage is low so starter won't turn over. By the way does the inertia switch button need to be depressed ?? It was out - so I pushed it in.

 

[Watchman]

BTW - I had these same voltages the last time the fuel pump went bad.

 

[Maniak]

Ok - inertia swithch reads 9.8v but battery is down to 11.9v after all the cranking - I know feel that batt voltage is low so starter won't turn over. By the way does the inertia switch button need to be depressed ?? It was out - so I pushed it in.

Yes, it has to be depressed.. If if was up, it would turn off the fuel pump.. Might as well make sure the voltage going in is the same going out now (it should be).

~Mark

 

[Watchman]

I can now hear the fuel pump !!! The switch needed to be pushed in - battery is down but with jump only click - going to get free replacement starter - may get starter switch relay at same time

 

[Watchman]

Also, I found that a spade wire came loose on the starter - just before I was going to take off the starter - I connected it and tried starting .. AND THE ENGINE CRANKED UP GREAT - NO SHAKING !! But - rockers sound a little noisy (ticking) and there is exh smoke coming from the Y connection of the drivers side - need to tighten that up a little.

Any advice on the ticking ?? It is on the pass side only.

Thanks to all for your help !! You guys really helped me stay with this.

John

 

[Watchman]

I'm also getting a few drops of coolant - cannot tell where it is coming from - checked water pump, thermostat, water temp sensor on manifold.

 

[Watchman]

Also still have smoke coming from pipe to exh manifold on drivers side - tightened both bolts together carefully - cannot tightening anymore - looks like a fix at the local muffler shop. Also - any advice on ticking - would like to find a thread on that fix - is it detrimental to the engine performance

 

[natenkiki2004]

For what it's worth, I did some binge-reading last night about valvetrain ticking. Is it only when you first start it or is it there even when the engine is warm? From what I understand, cold only ticking is lifters (should have been done when you had the heads off) but ticking all the time is rocker arms and pushrods. The latter should have been checked when you had the valve covers off.

However, I've seen many posts where people say it doesn't hurt anything and won't kill the engine. But, I can't help but wonder about excessive tolerances in the valvetrain affecting load or high RPM performance since opening of the valves would take longer.

 

[Watchman]

Thank you 2004 for your research.

I found out that the smoke issue was from the torn insulation from the egr pipe from the drivers side exh manifold. I bought this ex new in CA so it has egr.

Also, on the passenger side exh manifold at the front is a two piece heat shield that protects two large elec connectors. I broke the studs off and I cannot see how it attaches back to the engine. Any thoughts here ??? - tried to use a not and bolt - but it needs to be secured to the engine to keep from clanging around... ??

BTW- have driven 100 miles so far and staying cool. Good to be back on the road.