93 Ex overheating

[Mike451]

The rocker arm assemblies should be removed before the head. They would just be in the way and you might damage the pushrods removing the head. In any case the rocker arm assemblies must be off when installing the heads.

As noted they are easy to take off. They come off as an assembly with 3 bolts. back them off evenly, the book suggests 2 turns on each bolt at a time.

 

[cloaked_chaos]

Being in Arizona, I don't have to use spray lube to get bolts off but I highly recommend spraying the bolts and letting it soak in for a while.

Then just use a couple feet of extensions and a breaker bar from below. They designed the exhaust to have line of sight from below for this very reason.

 

[Watchman]

Mike451 - Thanks for the help - I will remove the upper air intake - then remove rocker arm assys and arrange in a box like I've seen in another thread.

Cloaked - I have removed the drivers side wheel well splash shield and now have better access to the manifold bolts on that side. On the pass side wheel well splash shield the three upper vertical bolts and nuts are totally merged in rust, but I was able to try one manifold bolt with a 1/2" ratchet and breaker bar and it won't budge - no rust on the bolt but just very tight. I'm going to borrow a high impact DC tool (350 ft-lbs) and try that. If the bolts brake off - do they go into the head ? That way I can at least remove the exh manifolds - get the heads off - get them to a machine shop where the exh manifold bolts can be drilled out ?? I'm hoping the manifold bolts don't break off - just trying to look at alternatives in case.

 

[cloaked_chaos]

Don't bother unbolting the manifolds from the head, just unbolt the Y-pipe. The Y-pipe bolts are the ones I was referring to.

You shouldn't have to remove the manifold unless you are replacing the head. Plus, if you don't remove them you don't have to worry about re-seating them. There is plenty of space to take the head and manifold out as one unit.

 

[Watchman]

Can the shop still pressure test the head with the exh manifold on ? Also, the bolts from the Y pipe to the manifold are really rusted.

 

[Watchman]

Drivers side splash shield off, that was very difiicult - can't see access from underneath- you must have to get splash shield off ?? So, I was able to break loose all exh manifold bolts except one - maybe rounding off on me - getting a special socket from advance to get it off - Found a shop that will pressure test, if head or heads are cracked, then I'm going to replace.

1. Is there a gasket kit that you can buy that has all the gaskets for head, LIM, Valve covers ?
2. I know I need new head bolts, but Rock Auto lists Fel Pro and Sealed Power, they don't look different but SP 2x price of Fel Pro. Any recommendations ?

3. Should I get new exhaust manifold bolts also ? Who has them ?

Thanks for the help here.

 

[Watchman]

Need help !!! I rounded off the front lower drivers side exh manifold bolt. You can only use a wobble to get it off. Going to have to try to remove at the exh pipe - if that fails - will have to resort to cutting tools to remove pipe at exh manifold

I came very close to throwing in the towel and haul it to the junk yard - but - there has to be a way to get around one 10 mm bolt. I am going to borrow DC impact and get another couple long 1/2" extensions.
Any other advice ?? Please help guys ? I am not mechanic - replaced brakes, small mechanical repairs, changed oil but this is new ground - I want to see this thru.

 

[cloaked_chaos]

It is way easier to take the exhaust manifold off if you just remove the Y pipe bolts and take the head off the motor first.

 

[Watchman]

Ok - I looked at that. The drivers side Y pipe outboard bolt I can see accessing, but what about the inboard bolt. You can't see it and to access it you have to use another wobble - any ideas ?

 

[cloaked_chaos]

I have done this on a few explorers. I am able to access all four bolts from the bottom. I have never had to use a wobble, only about 2 feet of extensions to get the breaker bar down far enough to get enough torque and not hit your knuckles on anything when they break free.

Be warned - even in the near zero rust of arizona and with the help of an 18" breaker bar, I still had difficulty breaking the bolts free. I highly recommend using spray lube in advance.

 

[Watchman]

Ok - but the outside bolt of the driver's side pipe does need a wobble - also believe I may have rounded this one - still working on this - tried last night and still couldn't move these bolts. Going to try to get a power tool - maybe even a grinder. I may try to grind exh manifold bolt under EGR pipe. Bought another can of PB blaster -constantly spraying..... keep trying .... Amazing ... this is the only thing holding up head removal on driver side.

 

[Watchman]

Took off LIM - was very wet. I wonder if this was the problem - bolts were all tight though.

Ok - removed drivers side exhaust at flange - had to grind off out side bolt - this side is NOT accessible with a straight extension - broke 2 wobbles. Got inside bolt out because I had a straight shot with a DC impact. Any how got drivers head out along with exh manifold - cut rounded bolt on exh manifold, and then separated manifold from head- then used pipe wrench to twist out stud from head - I will have to take drivers side exh manifold to a shop to remove cut off bolt. I don't have those tools.

Took pass side head out - much easier - actually this side looked good - can't see any gasket issues. Anyhow - taking heads and LIM to local racing shop to test heads and check LIM. Taking the exh manifold to different shop who will charge less for removing cut off bolt. Ordering head gaskets. head bolts, LIM and upper instake, and exh manifold gaskets. Taking exh manifold bolts to Fastenal and see if they can duplicate.

If I forgot anything please let me know so I can order it. Sorry for the long saga.

 

[cloaked_chaos]

I may have some extra manifold to head bolts from a recent trip to the junk yard. I'll have a look when I get home.

 

[Watchman]

Thanks anyway Cloak - I just ordered all manifold bolts from the dealer. The heads are at the machine shop - hopefully finished today - Then the re-assemble starts.

 

[Watchman]

Heads are back !!! The heads were warped - shop machined 9 thousands off each head. Now waiting to get exh manifold back from muffler shop to remove cut off bolt where Y pipe attaches. Gaskets, head bolts here tomorrow. Fastenal had replacement exh manifold bolts fro both sides - 12 bolts total for $16 (grade 8). Ford dealer wanted $13 each !!! Hopefully start putting things back together tomorrow.

 

[larrydd999]

Sounds interesting, keep us posted.
Did you find a specific location that was leaking coolant or are you still looking? I just found a coolant leak in our '92 Ex timing cover gasket, so my July 4th holiday is also committed to auto repairs. Not as substantial as yours, however...

 

[Watchman]

The whole issue to this problem started when I had a shop replace all the seals in the engine almost yrs ago with 278K miles on the truck - I bought this ex new in 93 and wanted to keep it - It now has 320K on it. The main issue in 2010 was coolant that was building up on the drivers side of the engine. The shop in 2010 replaced all gaskets, including the head gaskets and water pump, timing chain, oil pump, hoses etc. However, they did not check the heads, ie pressure test - of all things that should have been on the top of the list with this kind of work . Yesterday I took the heads to a small performance racing shop because they had same day turnaround. The racing shop owner that machined my heads told me the issue probably revolved around the original water pump. He stated that these heads were warped most likely caused by a weakening original water pump over the years. The impellars wear over time and thus do not move the fluid necessary to maintain proper cooling temp. He mentioned you need to watch your water temp gauge also - but as all ex owners know these sensors can be defective when replaced another thing to wathc for. This was a big learning lesson for me. The heads were probably warped in 2010 and the new gaskets could only hold that gap for a short period of time. The head gaskets that were replaced in 2010 actually looked pretty good ! The shop yesterday pressured tested the heads and they were fine, no cracks - but warped !!
Say - I would appreciate any help from the experienced folks here on correctly installing the head gaskets, RTV'ing in the right places, and direct me to any threads, post ?? I don't want to mess up this critical process.

I am putting it back together this afternoon, Southwest Virginia time. Any PMs or posts welcomed. Thanks to all !!

 

[natenkiki2004]

I've been watching this thread, it's quite interesting but I haven't had anything to say until now I don't think the head gaskets use any RTV on them, you need a clean all-metal seal due to the pressures and heat. You DO put RTV in some places on the lower intake manifold. I've been following this guide and it seems to be spot-on from all the info I've seen:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/40LIntakeGasketReplacement.pdf

Also, looking through my files, I found this:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u...er/cylinder-head-removal-and-installation.pdf
It looks pretty detailed but I would just use it as a guide and get a consensus from people who have actually been in there before.

Hope this helps

 

[L.A.X]

Overall question about this thread and overheating. I am pretty much a do it yourself guy when it comes to vehicle repair but I still have a lot to learn. Would it be correct to state that a head gasket or head failure due to overheating is the result of improper cooling or blockage? What I am basically trying to say is that if someone continues to run their car or truck hot, this is the end result right? Or is it possible for your truck to run perfectly and cool then one day overheat and damage a head/head gasket?

 

[Maniak]

Overall question about this thread and overheating. I am pretty much a do it yourself guy when it comes to vehicle repair but I still have a lot to learn. Would it be correct to state that a head gasket or head failure due to overheating is the result of improper cooling or blockage? What I am basically trying to say is that if someone continues to run their car or truck hot, this is the end result right? Or is it possible for your truck to run perfectly and cool then one day overheat and damage a head/head gasket?

I cracked my first set of heads thanks to a radiator split. The coolant came out but I didn't see smoke etc. while heading down the freeway at 75mph.. I actually smelled the truck being hot but the temp gauge was still reading normal/low because there wasn't any coolant left in there..

~Mark