93 explorer lower intake gasket failure

[pnstr]

Gents (and ladies as applicable):

I am trying to salvage my 93 EB with 153k on the odometer...many bbaaadd things have happened in the past 3 weeks whilest trying to do the lower intake gasket...following the Haynes manual, of course.

Just so I am clear on other posts, and to gather opinion - with new gaskets DO NOT use RTV anywhere except on the block itself and where the head meet the block...NOT around the water ports as indicated in the manual.

I have judiciously used the supplied RTV with the Fel-pro gaskets and have had 3 failures where I ended up with antifreeze in the oil.

Ideas?

 

[Hotweels]

apply black hi-temp permatex silicone directly to all gasket mating surfaces both on top and under the gasket, torque all bolts in sequence to spec makeing sure to apply blue locktite to all thread's.
the #1 cause of leaks and failures with intake gaskets is the intake not being set down straight on the gasket and then slid into position thus disturbing the gasket's seal, this can be a real b!t^& but you can thank yer lucky stars its not an old Ford FE motor with a cast steel intake that weighs around 65lb's... been there done that.

I have never seen a case where putting silicone around the cooling jacket ports has caused a failure and i have done 4 explorer 4.0's and several other motor's.

 

[pnstr]

I concur that the manual has indicated what you have replied, though other threads have stated that you do not use RTV with the new gaskets.

And, darn, I am getting good at replacing these things, if I could just keep them from failing.

 

[pnstr]

Oh, and yes I agree that logically RTV should not have caused a repetitive failure in this case, though the milkshake-like oil leads me to believe otherwise..

Also, intake was machined to make sure perfectly flat, shop said they took off .003.

 

[Hotweels]

do your felpro gaskets have a thin rubber type line running thru them? these are the only gaskets i can think of that would not need silicone.
try dry fitting the intake on with only a small film of silicone on the intake only then pull the intake back off and see where the silicone has touched the block that will tell you if there is something wrong with the machine work...... just cause a shop does the work that does not mean they do it very well.

 

[Fhantazm]

Originally posted by pnstr


And, darn, I am getting good at replacing these things, if I could just keep them from failing.

I hear ya man!!

 

[Brett]

Put the gasket on. Dab some sealer on the corners where the head meets the block and bolt it back together in a torque sequence. No need for more sealer than that (why do you think the gasket sets come with a tube the size of my pinky) I think you may be cranking down on the bolts right away. You need to use a 3/8" rachet and keep going over the bolts in a torque sequence until they are tight. It'll take about 4 or 5 passes.

BTW, I've done several of these. Never once had a problem. The problem is your technique, not the gaskets.

 

[pnstr]

Brett,

I agree with you 100%, and I thank you for your feedback.

However, riddle me this, if you want to spectulate...why does the haynes, as well as the chilton manual, CLEARLY state placing sealer around the water ports. The bolts were torqued with an in-lb torque wrench in the specified pattern and torque.

It doesn't make sense at all, and I probably should have ignored it, but I assume from this that the book is wrong.

 

[have2goski]

maybe you can clarify if you are using the torque sequence.

Like said above you have to tighten each bolt several times and gradually work your way up to the specified torque.

You can't just tighten them in the sequence one at a time and be done. several passes are required increasing the torque on each pass as you go.

Basically you are trying to tighten the entire peice evenly. Not tighten one side and have the other completely loose

 

[pnstr]

Affirmative, torqued specifically in 4 steps per the manual.

By the way, got Ford gasket for this machine, assuming that it must ahve been the Fel=pro....WHAT a difference!!!!!! I suggest paying the little extra for the factory part.

That said, machine is dead; still passing copious amounts of antifreeze into the block; could possible lose a gallon of coolant that fast into the oil via a gasket leak. I assume either cracked blocked or head.

Comtemplating a new engine or the junkyard at this point.

 

[Micheal_21]

this is the only place i found to post this but ive got a 1994 ford explorer and it's leaking water in the back of the motor i was told it was the freeze plug's come to fine out it aint and then i get told it's the intake gasest's i don't know what it is can anyone help please? it in the back of the motor where it's leaking water i need the alot of help i can get on this ill take a pic of it tomorrow with my cell.but other then that it run's good and shift's good.it's just right wen i put water in it...it run's out as fast as i put it in even if i put water in it slow it still leak's even wen drving it please help.My E-Mail Is Micheal_aka_DjMike@windstream.net Thank You All.