94 Ex with brake issues

[Currency]

I was leaving home a week or so ago and I noticed my brakes were going further down than normal.

Long story short I had to push the peddle to the floor, pretty much, to get it to stop and still stopping was a challenge. I have some brakes but not like it use to be, then they were not the best either.

I researched on here about air in the lines, master cylinder, and the hydraulic control unit (HCU).
Purchased a new master cylinder, bench bleed it, put it on the truck, bleed the brakes.... three times and it is still the same.

So, That leaves me to believe that it has to be air in the HCU which leaves me with more questions than answers.

How does air get into the HCU? The fluid was fine, never really used any. So I cannot understand it.

I know how to bleed air from the HCU with the little adapter thing, but how much does it normally cost to pay a shop to do this? That is if they have the tools. Going shop labor rate in my area is around $55 an hour.

Also, if the HCU is bad would that allow air into the lines?

Last question(s).

Is there anything else that could cause this problem? If so how much will that cost to replace?

Hopefully I will have it fixed soon. Had been out of work for awhile and just got a seasonal job a few weeks ago, last day is Christmas eve. So I have to have a ride.

Just another note, I had been using my mothers car. But either the fuel pump went out of it or it jumped time today while I was going Christmas shopping

I have had really bad luck vehicle wise lately

Edit: Brakes are still the same, almost none at all. Taking off work tomorrow and taking it to a local dealer to have the entire braking system bleed. If that doesn't fix it I will just have to park it for some time and see if my work will let me work in my hometown. If not I have to get someone to take me to and from work, 20 miles plus one way. If they can't work with me than I guess I won't be able to work with them anymore.

*Crosses fingers and hopes these UPS'ers understand*

 

[huntman58]

Could be the MC push rod is out of adjustment. not sure of how much it would run to have a shop bleed the system but if that is all it is and you can not get the air out then in the long run what ever it is would be worth it so you have a ride for work and then later for looking again . It also may be the fastest way also unless you can do it all and get it done right. I also take it you checked all the wheel cylinders and calibers? If any of them are leaking pressure that will make the brakes do just like you said also. Also how are the brake booster and its vacuum line and grommet? Any signs of leaking any wear? Best way to check the wheels is to remove them and then look. On the back end also remove the brake drums to look as just looking at the back side you may not see any thing there as it could be in the front. also badly worn brakes will make a peddle go to the floor and if the travel is to much it will be hard to stop unless you give the brakes a fast pump one time more to take up the extra space between the rotor / drum and the pads / shoes.

 

[Currency]

When it first started I put it on a lift and checked all the lines, calipers, and so on. I have no leaks that I am aware of in the breaking system. It just kind of happened that one day.

I will have to check the master cylinder push rod tomorrow and see if that may be it.

When I first got this explorer July 2009, fixed and legal by September 2009, it had major brake issues. I replaced both front calipers, pads, shoes, rotors, and the right rear wheel cylinder.

I do have the rear spring kit that I have not put on yet, and I have to get the adjusters for the rear as well. Normally if I hit a hard bump at a high speed the left rear adjuster will fall out and I will lose brakes on that rear side. So that is why I put it on a lift and checked because I just thought it was that, but it wasn't

So I will check that MC push rod and if that is not it I will take it to the dealer..... Hum... Wonder if a Chevy dealer has the tools, I deliver to a local Chevy dealer and may get a discount from them, that is IF they have the tools.

 

[Currency]

I checked out the MC push rod and that was not it. So I took it to the dealer for a complete braking system flush, $89.99 plus tax. It's all good now and just in time to play in the snow.

Hum... Now what should be fixed or replaced with something better? :

Just joking, Thanks huntman58 for replying, you were the only one.

 

[OneLever]

Good troubleshooting. Thank you for posting that having the HCU bled fixed the problem.

 

[Currency]

Your welcome. I did replace the MC which was replaced sometime ago by a past owner. I'm number three on the owner list I believe and with 197,x.. miles I'm sure in the future I will be glad I replaced it.

I have been debating about replacing all the old rubber brake lines sometime next year, along with new shocks, and replacing a bad radius arm bracket and RA on the passenger side. I may also check into new aftermarket calipers around March too. I'm very picky when it comes to the braking system on my explorer. Go figure, over 4,000 pounds takes some time to stop so it is money well spent

Thanks for the help guys. I will soon be posting a walk through on how to disable the factory alarm on first gen explorers, with pictures. I've already disabled mine due to issues of some sort. It went off for no reason and done so every time it rained. Sucks being stuck on the side of the road and not being able to restart your SUV in the rain

I live in the Midwest so I have to wait until my father fixes his stove pipe in the garage or I will freeze.

lol

 

[OneLever]

I've always said it doesn't matter nearly as much if you can't get going as it does if you can't stop.

Have you looked into using different materials for the flexible brake lines versus rubber? I hear you on the cold. It's in the teens here and I've got the heat cranked up to prevent freezing pipes.

 

[Currency]

I've always said it doesn't matter nearly as much if you can't get going as it does if you can't stop.

Have you looked into using different materials for the flexible brake lines versus rubber? I hear you on the cold. It's in the teens here and I've got the heat cranked up to prevent freezing pipes.

Yes I have, I am currently looking into metal breaded brake lines but may settle for metal/rubber lines as it appears the breaded lines may be hard to come by on a local level.
I've also looked into new calipers and may end up replacing my new rotors with high performance ones.

Even with all the work that I have done to the braking system on my explorer I still don't think they are as good as they should be, or at least not as good as I want them to be. And yes, getting stopped is only part of the problem, getting going is the other part. I've still been putting of the rebuilding of my factory 4.0. My main bearings knock on load, most of the time.

I also need to replace some other drive train related items like the universal joints and not forgetting the ball joints I need to replace. The upper left passenger side has been busted since I got it about 15 months ago. The alignment also needs done.

To much to do with to little time and money. May get more done once I graduate College in November of 2011.