94 exp 4.o with cam sensor stuck ?

[smegun]

im stuck I got the retaining clamp and bolt out the synchro I can rotate left or right but I cant get it to rise out the hole ..

im trying at tdc and atdc


p.s
does the lower manifold have to be off looks tight regarding some tutorials want you to start perpendicular then the unit rotates as its going down hence setting the vane on the first MARK on the window before dropping but will it pass with the lower manifold on ??? not prolifically questioning timing but is lower manifold being in place possible ?

excerpts:


Agreed, but just a note: You can't rely on the timing marks alone... You can be at TDC according to the marks, but actually be 360 degrees OFF TDC. You need to make sure you're on the compression stroke, either by visually seeing that the valves are closed, or by using you finger to feel the air being pushed out as CollisionTech mentioned.​

 

[410Fortune]

You can remove the cam synchro with the engine in any position
To RE install and align the timing is when you need to be at TDC cyl #1 on compression stroke.

You need to pull straight up just a little harder.
We had one that fought us big time, my friend Brett ended up making a puller tool from a piece of scrap steel that we were able to screw into the synchro body and use a small puller/slide hammer to yank it out of the engine.

 

[smegun]

thanks for confidence pool a tool out the truck he ha …. I used trimmer string and a plank to get my injectors out once he ha what about the lower manifold on installation ?

 

[410Fortune]

you do not have to remove the lower intake to drop the cam synchronizer and sensor in place no
You really should have the upper intake plenum off it makes access much easier, you do not have to remove the fuel rail or lower intake.
You can also unbolt the transmission mount (two nuts) and with a floor jack press up on the transfer case a couple of inches, this will raise the back of the engine and give you a much better angle for working back there
There are several threads on here recently about installing the cam synchro on the 94-95 trucks including pictures and info

 

[smegun]

you do not have to remove the lower intake to drop the cam synchronizer and sensor in place no
You really should have the upper intake plenum off it makes access much easier, you do not have to remove the fuel rail or lower intake.
You can also unbolt the transmission mount (two nuts) and with a floor jack press up on the transfer case a couple of inches, this will raise the back of the engine and give you a much better angle for working back there
There are several threads on here recently about installing the cam synchro on the 94-95 trucks including pictures and info

now your talking he ha yea upper I just put the heads on and lower got it running but out of time I think im a rotation out after chain tensioner job the gear slipped and turned the cam thought I rotated it back but..? when it came back bad I took the heads off to find a recessed valve and extra's thinking that was it parked for a year got it together again after machine shop rods and lifters rockers but it runs out of time ...sits in a pocket of protrusions

 

[smegun]

yea finally came out with a few taps on the slide hamma think its defective or now defective I back probe tested it and it give me 12 volts no mater what position its in …:/ if I ohms test it its 1280 ohms from center to positive and open center to neg and open neg to pos im looking for what its supposed to be something in the plastic ? diode or ? simple enough design like the sensor could be a separate part hard to find should of made it all one metal plate broke some plastic had to solder a wire

used a computer power supply think I curled reed ? looking for the right impedance pretty sure it gone


turn the sharp side twards bottom of syncro light taps ... viola I was looking at pics of syncros with messed up splines thinking my mesh was mush