94 Explorer Eddie Bauder 4d/4wd head/valve cover issues

[csturner92]

I'm inheriting a '94 explorer 4d/4wd Eddie Bauer from a co-worker, but before I can even do anything to it I had to get it running, here is the story.

The explorer has over 200k on it, but it had been running good until about 1.5~2 years ago. It started losing large amounts of oil. I'm talking almost all of the oil in 30 minutes to an hour. Instead of working on his baby, he parked it and never drove it again recently, when I asked if I could have it.

So far all I have discovered is that:

1. Needed a new battery (duh) - DONE
2. Oil leak seems to be coming from left (if you're in the driver seat) valve cover and is pretty bad. Bolts are tight, so I assume it's a gasket as it is coming from between the cover and where it sits.
3. The oil that is on the ground is the color of coffee with too much cream in it.

As far as the valve covers go, I'm going to be pulling them off and inspect them for damage, and changing the gaskets.

The color of the oil worries me, as I think it could be a head gasket issue.

I've decided to take on the task of disassemling the engine down to the heads, and changing every gasket/seal back up to the valve covers.I'm using the Haynes Repair Manual for the truck and following it step by step, unless of course the forum has an easier method.

What I want to know is:

What else should I be checking for when I'm doing this?

The truck has been parked for a long time, through two winters. Should I be concerned about the color of the oil, or can I just write it off as sitting there too long?

What can I use to clean the inside of the valve covers and so on, to remove any gunk that may be in there? I do not have access to a pressure washer, only my own two hands and a lot of time.


Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. This is my first time undertaking a project of this size, and I'm pretty excited to get started.

 

[vq5speed]

If your oil it creamy looking you got water in the oil which mean you have a cracked head. When my X cracked the heads last time I didn't fix her for few years. When I finally got the heads off water had filled the cylinder from the cracked head and rusted the cylinder walls really badly. After cleaning all the moisture out I filled my rusted cylinders with tranny fluid and let it soak for couple weeks to break down all the rust enough to rotate the crank. My motors been running fine now but I think I may have wore my rings some from the rust pitted walls. I get some smoke out my exhaust from oil blowby after sitting at a light.

 

[csturner92]

If your oil it creamy looking you got water in the oil which mean you have a cracked head. When my X cracked the heads last time I didn't fix her for few years. When I finally got the heads off water had filled the cylinder from the cracked head and rusted the cylinder walls really badly. After cleaning all the moisture out I filled my rusted cylinders with tranny fluid and let it soak for couple weeks to break down all the rust enough to rotate the crank. My motors been running fine now but I think I may have wore my rings some from the rust pitted walls. I get some smoke out my exhaust from oil blowby after sitting at a light.

Thank you for the reply. Based on that I think I'll just fix the oil leak for now. If I can get it to last two years then I'll look at replacing the heads with new.

Thank you for telling me it was a cracked head instead of a bad head gasket!

EDIT:

Random thought. Could I patch the crack with some JB Weld?

 

[SuperKirby]

I just changed my heads for new. The inside of my valve covers looked like the had Biden coast in old mayo. The worst part of the job was the exhaust manifold bolts. Otherwise it was it was 400 for the new manufacture heads, 100 for the gasket set, 25 for the head bolts, an another 100 for rockers and last was just a long couple days. In other words, the worst part of the entire project is the cost by its not overly difficult she well worth it when you're done. Personally i wouldn't drive it with a crack has for very long or very far. Too get of a chance of failure among betting stranded.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Take the heads off and get them to a machine shop. Don't worry about cracked heads until it's confirmed and if they aren't cracked just have a valve job, pressure check, and decking done to get them ready for reinstallation. The machine shop can also run it through their cleaner to get sludge and deposits out (it'll look like a million bucks once they're done). Then just focus on reinstallation. These are great motors, my 93 I used to have had 300k on it, burned oil like a sonofabitch, but ran like a top. Get it back to running right and keep good oil in it and you'll be good to go.

 

[csturner92]

Well I was out there working on getting those valve covers off... man they were a pain!

I only managed to get the right (if you're sitting inside) one off, and half of the bolts were such a pain to get to even after removing the alternator, ignition coil pack, and all the wires and hoses. Then I had to maneuver it out wish some magic dust. The right cover seems fine. I looked at the rocker arms and they didn't have any gouges or anything worrisome inn there.

I was not able to get off the left valve cover, though. While trying to remove the 4 bolts that hold the A/C compressor in, 1 of them rounded off. The other 3 were on there so freaking tight I think I popped a blood vessel getting them off. I should have just stopped there and used some penetrating oil but I'm stubborn.

Going to get some penetrating oil later on tonight, and whipping out the good ol' vice grips.

Worst case I'll just cut off the bolt and deal with that later.

I'm still torn about the heads. I see the T55 bits holding the valves on to the heads, and they all look pretty easy to get to. The exhaust manifold is also pretty easy to get to, but I noticed it has a bolt missing (center bolt). I don't have a great deal of money to put in to getting the heads re-done or buying new/reman at the moment.

Decisions, decisions!

Take the heads off and get them to a machine shop. Don't worry about cracked heads until it's confirmed and if they aren't cracked just have a valve job, pressure check, and decking done to get them ready for reinstallation. The machine shop can also run it through their cleaner to get sludge and deposits out (it'll look like a million bucks once they're done). Then just focus on reinstallation. These are great motors, my 93 I used to have had 300k on it, burned oil like a sonofabitch, but ran like a top. Get it back to running right and keep good oil in it and you'll be good to go.

How do I remove the heads themselves? I know how to get to them, but how do I remove them? Also, how much do you think it would run me to have them (assuming no cracks or major damage) tested, resurfaced, and cleaned?

I'm confusing myself. The heads are what I will be removing with the T55 bits, yes? I'm thinking about the block... lol. If those are the section that would be cracked, can you link me to some good new/reman heads? I'll just replace them if that's the case.

 

[vq5speed]

Thank you for the reply. Based on that I think I'll just fix the oil leak for now. If I can get it to last two years then I'll look at replacing the heads with new.

Thank you for telling me it was a cracked head instead of a bad head gasket!

EDIT:

Random thought. Could I patch the crack with some JB Weld?

You say the oil looks like creamed coffee that is water mixing with the oil. Your going to keep driving her like this. I don't think it will last long but its your truck good luck with that..

 

[SuperKirby]

The heads are held on by 6 bolts - the T55. I bought mine from Odessa Cylinder Head through ebay. They were $400 shipped, and are new manufacture. You can get reman for less, but I figured for a $60 difference I would rather go brand new. Just search explorer cylinder heads on ebay. There's a bunch of them. You do have to send yours back as cores or they'll charge you $200, but you have 30 days to do it and they pay return shipping.
All total I think I spent about 22 hours changing mine, plus rebuilding rocker assemblies and a couple other small things. If I had to do it again I think I could save a few hours and it's good to know that now I have a lot of new parts so it should last a long time.

 

[csturner92]

The heads are held on by 6 bolts - the T55. I bought mine from Odessa Cylinder Head through ebay. They were $400 shipped, and are new manufacture. You can get reman for less, but I figured for a $60 difference I would rather go brand new. Just search explorer cylinder heads on ebay. There's a bunch of them. You do have to send yours back as cores or they'll charge you $200, but you have 30 days to do it and they pay return shipping.
All total I think I spent about 22 hours changing mine, plus rebuilding rocker assemblies and a couple other small things. If I had to do it again I think I could save a few hours and it's good to know that now I have a lot of new parts so it should last a long time.

Thanks for clarifying. This is my first time doing any major work on a vehicle and clearly I have a lot to learn. Every time I hear cracked head I always thought it was on the block, and that was the head. Now I know that the heads are what actually come off with the T55 bolts. This makes things easier for me.

I'm just going to find a place that will test them, clean them, ect.

Worst case I'll just buy new.


EDIT:

Found the Odessa cylinder heads on ebay that you were referring to. $400 and some change for the set, with free shipping and no up-front core charge (but cores are required to be sent in with PREPAID shipping)

Great deal if it comes to it!

 

[SuperKirby]

I had planned on taking mine in to have them checked, cleaned, etc. But then when I started looking at costs and the added time to have it done I decided to just spend the money. As a daily driver I couldn't really go an extra week without a vehicle while I waited for a shop to get to them.
This was the first time I did any major work. It will work out fine. It's just taking off a bunch of bolts and reinstalling them a little later.

 

[jd4242]

X50 on having the heads checked..

Here are the heads I run..you can reuse your valves..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170434742301?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[csturner92]

Just a small update. Turns out one of the heads is actually new, less then 50k on it, whereas the other is a reman, also less than 50k on it. I'm really hopefuly that it's just a head gasket. I cut off the one bolt I rounded off on the compressor so I'l be able to get to the left valve cover now. The right valve cover was actually pretty clean, no gunk or funky colors inside, only oil. The head also looks pretty good. No crud buildup, just a bit of oil everywhere


Hope the left goes just as well! lol

X50 on having the heads checked..

Here are the heads I run..you can reuse your valves..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170434742301?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Thanks for the link, I'll keep these in mind because all the valves, rockers, and pushrods so far are in great shape (being what I'm guessing is the head that is brand new).

 

[jd4242]

What makes you think they are new?? What cast marks does it have??

 

[csturner92]

What makes you think they are new?? What cast marks does it have??

Co-worker told me one is new, one is reman. He is a good, honest man.

I don't know what cast marks are. Can you elaborate so I can answer your question?

If it requires the heads to be out to answer, I haven't gotten that far yet.


EDIT:

If you're talking about these things (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=649329728496593) which I assume are on the sides of each head, maybe I can get my phone in there a snap a picture for you, would that help?

is there something specific I should be looking for?

 

[jd4242]

Co-worker told me one is new, one is reman. He is a good, honest man.

I don't know what cast marks are. Can you elaborate so I can answer your question?

If it requires the heads to be out to answer, I haven't gotten that far yet.

Yea but how does he know? Did he replace them or knew they were replaced? ? Just wondering because beside cast marks, port and cc, you cant tell.

It should have a stamp on it like 90tm..93tm..tells what year they are.

But honestly it doesnt sound like a cracked head or gasket.is the oil lose being burnt or spilling out anywhere? Dumb questions but help tell whats going on..thats ALOT of oil being lost fast..

 

[csturner92]

Yea but how does he know? Did he replace them or knew they were replaced? ? Just wondering because beside cast marks, port and cc, you cant tell.

It should have a stamp on it like 90tm..93tm..tells what year they are.

But honestly it doesnt sound like a cracked head or gasket.is the oil lose being burnt or spilling out anywhere? Dumb questions but help tell whats going on..thats ALOT of oil being lost fast..

He had the heads replaced at a shop in the past.

He got the truck for $400 because it wouldn't start, replaced the fuel rail and injector's and it fired right up.

Since then he's done all the regular maintenance on it, regular oil changes, coolant, ect.

He said he also had the heads replaced.

The oil was literally pouring out of the left valve cover. I could see where the gasket seemed to be "spilling" out of the cover, and that's where the oil was leaking out of. That's the only oil leak I know of, and that's why I started the project. Once I saw the color of the oil I immediately thought it was off and did some research, and came to a conclusion that it was the heads, or the head gasket. I was thinking it could be because of the water from the 50/50 coolant had been sitting in the engine for a few years, but I don't want to take all this apart and replace the cover gaskets only to find that it is the head/head gaskets and start all over again.

 

[jd4242]

Was the valve covers cork?? Did the covers have metal wings under the bolts? You would know if it was a head or gasket, there would be a creamy milky paste on the inside of the valve covers or all inside the radiator, both oil cap or radiator cap would be covered. .

 

[csturner92]

Was the valve covers cork?? Did the covers have metal wings under the bolts? You would know if it was a head or gasket, there would be a creamy milky paste on the inside of the valve covers or all inside the radiator, both oil cap or radiator cap would be covered. .

I'm not sure if they were cork. The right valve cover is the only one I got off so far, had to deal with a rounded compressor bolt first, which was dealt with today. The right valve cover did not have metal wings, but washers instead.

The left cover however, has metal wings under most of the bolts. Others have just a washer.

The right cover gasket seemed like rubber though, but there was the red paste stuff all over it too. Inside of the left cover seemed normal, just a... well... oily color. No cream or milk inside of it. I'll update on the right one if I get it off tomorrow.

Both the oil cap and rad cap were bone dry.

 

[jd4242]

Without the wings it dents the bolts holes and it wont seal, even if it has washers...also the cork is the WORSE gasket in history, they never seal.you would know if its the new type of gaskets, they dont use rtv at all..personally I think your wasting your time and money..just get wings and new type of gaskets and be good..but your already pretty deep into it so just make sure to use new type gaskets, head bolts and wings.also check the covers for being TOTALLY flat.I use a ball ping hammer to tap the bolt holes from the bottom side to flatten them back out..

 

[csturner92]

Will these hold downs work? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...25xw?itemIdentifier=154533&_requestid=8080161