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'96 Sound Setup Instruction

BeautiFORD

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September 6, 2013
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City, State
Oklahoma
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 Explorer EB ed. 5.0 L
I have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer v8. With only 74,000 original miles!
I was wondering about the audio system. I just bought the whole setup, speakers, wires, amp, sub, new internal antenna (Hate the power one since it's off the push-up mechanism). I'm trying to just disconnect the power one and leave it in the mast. i want unplug the antenna motor as well.
I will be receiving my system via mail very shortly and i want to do it all myself.

Did any of you use a certain guide on how to install it all properly? i got a 5 ch. amp so i'm hooking EVERYTHING up through it. so im trying to figure out the best way to do this. All i have is the haynes manual. Just wondered who used what for theirs and the location of their amp....etc.

Pioneer 6x8's (4 of them)
Kenwood 5 ch. amp
Rockford fosgate 10in sub
Pioneer Double DIN sized Hu
Rockford Fosgate amp wiring kit
Battery terminal cover
new speaker wire

Thanks, Chad

1996 Explorer v8 Eddie Bauer-all stock.....for now!
 



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Put the headunit in first, then run the outs of the headunit into the amp, then the amp to the speakers.
If you've never done anything like it before, you'll run into snags.
In terms of instructions, what would you like to know?
 






i would do it all at once. the speakers are the easiest as there is no wiring involved. take each door panel off each door has like two screws then pulls straight out with those anchor things all around the border. then install the head unit but leave it loose in there because you will have to run rcas and remote turn on from the back of the head unit and to wherever you mount the amp. i would suggest under the rear seat, or attached to your sub box. (thats where mine is but it makes it an easier steal for thieves) then you wilol have to run speaker wire from your amp to either each speaker individually (like i did) or run all 4 speakers worth of wire to the back of your head unit and tap into the existing speaker wire for each speaker. then run your ground from your amp to a bolt that connects to the frame. i used the rear seat bolt in the middle. then run power wire from your battery up front to your amp. this will be the hardest part as you will have to find a grommet in the firewall or drill your own hole (i drilled my own beacuse i had massive wire, i drilled it right above the brake pedal) then you have your sub left which idk how you plan on hooking that up. i would take a stab but im rusty and would have to look up exactly how to do that (its been a while) and im not sure which ohms your running and how many voice coils your sub has im guessing its a single 4 ohm? which only gives you one wiring option. my sub is dual 2 ohm so i can run at either 1 ohm or 4 ohms :)
 






Put the headunit in first, then run the outs of the headunit into the amp, then the amp to the speakers.
If you've never done anything like it before, you'll run into snags.
In terms of instructions, what would you like to know?

What is the easiest way to run my speaker wire from amplifier to front of vehicle? Obviously i have to cut into the floorliner, so did you use a wire pulley to pull/push the speaker wire through?
My amp will be installed right behind the rear seat by my sub, if not on the box. so im running all my wiring from rear of vehicle.
 






pbnj22,

How did you pull the new speaker wire through the door jam? would i attach with electrical tape and just pull factory wire through with the new? I think for quality purposes the factory speaker wiring should just be tossed.
Did you use a capacitor for your sub?
I'm not worried about theft since i have the cargo cover plus i don't live in a bad part of town, im in the country.
so would you say amp on the sub box or floor?

what is the easiest way to get wires from the rear cargo to behind HU? is the floor liner loose enough around center console to push it on through along the center hump?
When you remove the factory unit is the access room large ebough where i don't have to remove any panels from the dash?
 






What is the easiest way to run my speaker wire from amplifier to front of vehicle? Obviously i have to cut into the floorliner, so did you use a wire pulley to pull/push the speaker wire through?
My amp will be installed right behind the rear seat by my sub, if not on the box. so im running all my wiring from rear of vehicle.

i wouldnt cut a hole. i would pull the trim by the door jam and then "peel"back the carpet until you can run it where you want. for my job i pulled the backseats out completely which was actually pretty easy (and i could still drive it since its my daily), then pulled all the door panels (still could still drive it since its my daily) then got everything set up and planned. then pulled the trim pieces by the door jams. then peeled back the carpet and pulled both front seats and then could easily run wire under carpet and up under the dash and get the wire up behind the dash to the head unit. you can run all 4 sets up speaker wire next to each other and then just tap into their corresponding factory wires behind the dash that run into each speaker.
 






pbnj22,

How did you pull the new speaker wire through the door jam? would i attach with electrical tape and just pull factory wire through with the new? I think for quality purposes the factory speaker wiring should just be tossed.
Did you use a capacitor for your sub?
I'm not worried about theft since i have the cargo cover plus i don't live in a bad part of town, im in the country.
so would you say amp on the sub box or floor?

what is the easiest way to get wires from the rear cargo to behind HU? is the floor liner loose enough around center console to push it on through along the center hump?
When you remove the factory unit is the access room large ebough where i don't have to remove any panels from the dash?

i left old wire in place and just disconnected it at both ends.. you cant use your electrical tape and pull that through trick here because it it tied together with other factory wires.. i ran wire from under rear passenger seat (thats where my 4 channel speaker amp is mounted) i have a sub amp in the rear cargo area as well. but from under the rear passenger seat i ran 4 separate runs to the base of each door. then went through that " rubber grommet" thing that the door swings open on. I believe there is two per door. that is where the factory wires run that go to the door for factory power windows and power unlocks and stuff.. you have to pry both ends "inward" and out of the door then fish the new speaker wire through then you can feed it up to your speaker location.. if that makes sense.

for ease of space i would have your amp on the backside of your sub box. so it is "sandwhiched" between the rear seat and the box. that is how mine is so it is hidden so to speak and if i open the truck you cant see it at all. plus it hides the wires nicely because all wires can go right down the rear seats kinda where the tire iron sits. but rear seat is good to mount it under too..if you can come up with a mounting system so it doesn't just slide around.

No i do not use a capacitor as i do not believe in them. google that and its kinda a hot topic weather your for or against them. i believe they just cause extra strain on your electrical system. im running about about 10,000 watts peak and about 3000 rms which is the correct way to measure (not peak) but anyway i have that on stock electrical with "big 3" upgraded under the hood and i do not get voltage drops at all.


yes when you take out factory head unit you will have plenty of room behind there to look down and see where wires are coming from and gong to..


as far as the easiest way to run wire from rear to front would just be anywhere under the dloor and in the door jams. when you pop off the trim for the door jams you will actually see a nice "creves" or tunnel that other factory wires run in that you can easily stuff more wire into.. just make sure your "power wire" that is the big probably red wire that goes from amp to you battery is away from your "patch" or rca cables that are going to your head unit. if those two wires are run close to each other then you run the risk of getting interference and will hear your engine through your speakers so to speak. so i ran my remote turn on with my rcas right up the middle of the car from rear to front under the carpet and up by where the guy who rides shotguns feet would go and up into the dash. then run the power wire away from that and in that crevice on the drivers side door jam. i would snap some pics of what im talking about but my car is in the shop. so maybe when it gets back tomorro or the next day ill snap some good ones for ya!
 






No i do not use a capacitor as i do not believe in them. google that and its kinda a hot topic weather your for or against them. i believe they just cause extra strain on your electrical system. im running about about 10,000 watts peak and about 3000 rms which is the correct way to measure (not peak) but anyway i have that on stock electrical with "big 3" upgraded under the hood and i do not get voltage drops at all.

so maybe when it gets back tomorro or the next day ill snap some good ones for ya!

Awesome man, you are helping me greatly! Now to the "big 3" did you use 0 gauge wires? what kind of battery do you run now?
 






i used 0 gauge for big 3. then i used 0 gauge into a "distro block" which is basically a splitter. and then from that thing i have 0 gauge out to my sub amp and 4 gauge out to my speaker amp. as far as battery, it is just a stock replacement.. nothing special. i coudlnt even tell you the brand as i haven't had to replace it or any trouble with it. for the amount of power you are running i am sure you will be fine with a stock battery though.
 













Thanks for the pics! They are very helpful. So one final question is. I have two rca inputs on my new receiver. One is for the rear speakers, one is for the front. But the sub input is where the rear input is....its like you are going to substitute the rear connection for the subwoofer... well what do I do for my rca sub cable if there is no input for it?
 






Thanks for the pics! They are very helpful. So one final question is. I have two rca inputs on my new receiver. One is for the rear speakers, one is for the front. But the sub input is where the rear input is....its like you are going to substitute the rear connection for the subwoofer... well what do I do for my rca sub cable if there is no input for it?

meh.. I do not know lol.. buy a better head unit with an extra output?

otherwise you could probably get an rca splitter and use the rear speaker output for your sub. i think that would work.. sounds right in my head anyway
 






Hey, if im wiring everything through my amp, do I not connect any of the speaker wires on the harness in the back of HU? Would I just use theother wires not any greens whites or purples?
 






Hey, if im wiring everything through my amp, do I not connect any of the speaker wires on the harness in the back of HU? Would I just use theother wires not any greens whites or purples?

nope. because you are "bypassing" your head units internal amp. so you just leave those speakers wires there behind the dash, unless you can unhook them because i believe its just a plug.. many high end head units are called "dead" head units because they have no speaker wires because they assume you will be running an external amp anyway so they do not bother putting one inter their head units. do you have a model number of your head unit and amp?
 






After two long days of securing everything, I'm done! Everything worked on my first test! I ran my 4ga amp power cord on the left side of the vehicle along the channel. I drilled a hole in the fire wall and placed a rubber grommet in there with it. I than ran it between the wheel well under the hood and into my new + terminal header. I covered with flame retardant coil. All the other wires I ran between the channel on the right side. I cable tied all of them in the back to the amp which I mounted on the backside of my sub. I placed the ground under the back left hook bolt. Because I wired everything my self I did not use any speaker wire harnesses. I installed everything with a spade terminal. Lastly to bypass power antenna I didn't power it and placed internal antenna between dash and top of center vent inside the dash. My system sounds like a champ and the sub box is small enough to conceal it under my cargo privacy cover thing you pull and lock in place. It is also hidden behind my 3 % tint on the back windows.

Thanks for all the help.
 






well lets see some pics!!
 






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