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96 V8 has no AWD

DeCaff2007

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Ford Explorer AWD
Just as the title says, but:

We had 5" of snow last night so this was the perfect time to try the AWD. Yeah... I'm stuck in 2wd somehow. Then I was trying to back into my driveway and I heard a loud POP from the front driver side wheel and now no matter forward or reverse I hear POP, POP, POP, POP and it feels like the brakes are on in reverse.

I've already done a search to no avail. I've also read somewhere on here about some kind of contraption in the front differential that has to "warm up" for the AWD to take effect? Wrong answer!

Anyway, before I start tearing into this, anyone have some ideas they can throw at me?

Thanks for any replies.
 



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Sounds like a CV axle broke?
 












Sounds like a CV axle broke?

Would that cause AWD to be inoperable?

Turdle, funny you should post that. The drivers side caliper had that same problem when I bought the damn thing. I had to torch both bolts to get them loose (in fact, one broke), yet the caliper was completely loose.....

I won't get a chance to check this today but thanks for the replies.
 






If the CV broke, the axle won't turn under power, so no AWD.

MT


Would that cause AWD to be inoperable?

Turdle, funny you should post that. The drivers side caliper had that same problem when I bought the damn thing. I had to torch both bolts to get them loose (in fact, one broke), yet the caliper was completely loose.....

I won't get a chance to check this today but thanks for the replies.
 






If the CV broke, the axle won't turn under power, so no AWD.
MT
Not true. Central and rear have LS, it will work even with a front CV broken. Even with both front CV broken. Even with front shaft missing.
However, in his case it not completely broken (like disconnected), it just can't take the torque. I would guess the inner part of CV is faulty because he didn't say nothing about turning noises.
 






Not true. Central and rear have LS, it will work even with a front CV broken. Even with both front CV broken. Even with front shaft missing.
However, in his case it not completely broken (like disconnected), it just can't take the torque. I would guess the inner part of CV is faulty because he didn't say nothing about turning noises.

I didn't take it far enough, nor listen for turning noises. That will be a good thing to listen for this afternoon.

One thing: If the CV boot ISN'T torn, how do I know if the joint inside is bad?
 






My front drive shaft CV went bad. No cracks in the boot, but it was making loud noises all the time, in sync with tire revolutions. Replaced it and all is good - sometimes it is the only way to check...
 






My front drive shaft CV went bad. No cracks in the boot, but it was making loud noises all the time, in sync with tire revolutions. Replaced it and all is good - sometimes it is the only way to check...

I appreciate the insight. If that is in fact my problem, it's not a difficult repair from what I see.

I didn't get around to pulling the old beast in the garage tonight. Hopefully sometime tomorrow.
 






FINALLY got some time to mess around today.

I pulled the front driver side tire and immediately saw the problem.

20141128_145319_zps4949651c.jpg


I then went to the only place I thought would have hardware so late in the afternoon. They gave me this:

20141128_155441_zps5d411889.jpg


Not only is that bolt too short, but it's also SAE as opposed to Metric. The threads fit, but they are really tight.

It will work for now. Still doesn't solve my AWD problem.

Also, I'm tearing into the top of the engine tomorrow to see why I have quirky oil pressure and a MEAN tap/rattle sound. I'd actually be happy to have AWD and not running 100% At least then I could sell the damned thing pretty easily.

The entire reason I bought this rolling heap was to have a winter vehicle. Now I have 2 pieces of junk sitting in my driveway (the other POS is a 2000 Toyota Camry with 256K. Runs excellent but the body is falling apart around it.)
 






At least that control arm won't rust in a hurry.
 






The load popping under load and not going anywhere In deep snow sounds like a stretched out T-Case Chain to me.. Happened to my Expedition.
 






At least that control arm won't rust in a hurry.

LOL! Yeah there's a lot of oil pretty much everywhere on the under carriage. I've been monitoring the oil level and it's dead on. I DO, however, need a rear main seal. That much is obvious.

I didn't get a chance today to check anything out as to why AWD doesn't work.

First thing tomorrow morning, the "Sploder", as I've nicknamed it, goes up on jack stands.
 






The load popping under load and not going anywhere In deep snow sounds like a stretched out T-Case Chain to me.. Happened to my Expedition.

I think you're on to something there.
 






Well I FINALLY got around to putting this beast on jackstands. Threw it in drive and the rear wheels spun free. Nothing from the front.

I gave it some gas and the front turned maybe 1/2 turn and stopped.

I guess next is to check the T-case fluid... Not sure where to go from there.

EDIT: The fluid level in the T-case was actually low. I put probably 3/4 of a quart in there, until the fluid was dripping out of the fill hole.

Ok front tires are spinning w/out putting my foot on the gas, but not much. Gave it some gas and oh yeah they are spinning. So... I took it out for a test drive in what little snow we have here. Seems.... just ok. I mean it will go through an inch of snow easily but then I tried going over a mound. No dice. I got completely stuck and had to rock it out.

I might try the 4wd swap if I can find the time and $$ to do it.
 






If both front wheels stopped, it is between front differential and central one.
Take the front shaft out (see the sticky thread) and check rotation of front wheels by hand.
Without front shaft I advise not to drive the truck more than a few feet - I think that doing that there is a big chance of damaging the central Viscous Coupling.
 






Not Necessarily true about the front drive shaft absence. My son drove his AWD v8mounty 1000's of miles before we stuck a good front shaft back in with no effect at all.


However, do check to see if the CV axles are not binding at droop. If they do, then place the jack stands under the front tabs on the lower control arms, this put weight on the components to bring the cv's more in line ( less angle) while still keeping the tire off the ground for free wheel testing.

Removal of the front drive shaft is a good start to find the binding.
 






Not Necessarily true about the front drive shaft absence. My son drove his AWD v8mounty 1000's of miles before we stuck a good front shaft back in with no effect at all.


However, do check to see if the CV axles are not binding at droop. If they do, then place the jack stands under the front tabs on the lower control arms, this put weight on the components to bring the cv's more in line ( less angle) while still keeping the tire off the ground for free wheel testing.

Removal of the front drive shaft is a good start to find the binding.

That's how I checked them both before and after trans fluid top off. Are you saying I should place the jackstands somewhere else and see what the effect is?

Actually, that would be kind of hard right now considering I've decided to tear into the engine and see what's causing it to run so poorly. My vote (and others votes) are leaning toward a bent pushrod.

Intake manifold comes off tonight.
 






Not Necessarily true about the front drive shaft absence. My son drove his AWD v8mounty 1000's of miles before we stuck a good front shaft back in with no effect at all.

This was my experience too, it seems the VC is fairly robust, I was driving mine without a front shaft for a couple thousand miles and it still works fine.

Are you getting noises when trying to "go over a mound"? Maybe the VC is already weak, or the chain is stretched?
 



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