98 AWD, front end turning noise

[storlied]

Turning left only at first I'd hear a noise... it's like "HUFF HUFF HUFF" Took off my torn splash guard... didn't help. I see nowhere the 31" tire is rubbing... uhm... then it started to happen whenever I'm driving... [It's quieter though] doesn't matter weather I'm on the gas or not... it's not a clunk, click, or grind... it's like a hollow.. HUFF HUFF HUFF noise... =\

I feel some vibration too... through the whole vehicle.. but it's not harsh...

Any suggestions? Someone said tie joint or whatever, looked at it... n stuff... everything is solid... had an experienced person check it n stuff... says it's fine.... idk.... help..........

I have been mudding lately... lots of bumps... and it started the other day.... blah... what's going on?

Perhaps I need an alignment? ...=\ meh.. I don't wanna replace something.. =($$$$

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

i've heard it enough times to say that whenever you hear a vibration in the front end, especially on a second generation, check the sway bar bushings. i could be completely and totally wrong, but who knows.

 

[storlied]

Checked and they're fine, even sprayed them down with some WD40... and keep in mind mine's a 98... I think it was either 98 or 97 they revised the sway bar system in the front... or something..

 

[Turdle]

Front wheel hub ( bearing)-most likely the driver side.

 

[storlied]

Forgot to mention, it's coming from the passenger side.

If you are right jt... is it expensive to have replaced?

 

[Turdle]

Yeah-it is kind of high.
And, keep in mind, larger tires will wear them quicker.

We just replaced Bryan's driver side front hub. It is a chore.
I don;t know what a shop would charge for labor-I imagine about 2 hours, though it is a one hour job for a mechanic.
How long has it been since your brakes were gone over?

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/?N=10333+4294967268+1616+9327

 

[storlied]

A month or so, replaced them myself. Rotors are fine.

What would explain it getting louder when turning only left?

 

[gavin]

more pressure between the tire and bearing can cause the noise to get louder during a turn.

it's definately not THAT difficult of a job, imho.

I've done it about 4x on each side.
I can probably replace one in about 30-45 min now.

 

[storlied]

Well dude... help me.... You're sorta close... it's the weekend!!! COME ON!!

Where would I find the part?
Is it expensive?
Would Chevron do it for cheap?
Could you come to Fairbanks? =)
Now that I listen to it more.. it's like a hollow "CHUG CHUG CHUG" noise

Can hear it lightly while driving straight, gets deep when turning left.

Help~!

 

[Dan Whitaker]

The hub assenbly form a parts store will run you $150-200. A shop will charge you at the minimum $300 for the hub assembly plus labor.

I'd say you are looking at $500 to have a shop do it.

 

[storlied]

WHAT!?

I thought it was a simple bearing or something that can just be replaced!?

I don't NEED a whole new Hub assembly, do I???

 

[Dan Whitaker]

WHAT!?

I thought it was a simple bearing or something that can just be replaced!?

I don't NEED a whole new Hub assembly, do I???

You have no choice. You have to buy a complete hub assembly. It is a non serviceable part.

Here is what you are looking at.
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP101547...partType,00894/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

 

[storlied]

Is it for sure definitely it's this that's causing the noise?.....

Could there be Any other possibility?
What can I do myself to know for sure?..

[If anything, I can get one from a junk yard...] Will one from a 4.0L 4x4 be alright?

It looks pretty easy to install...... A few bolts... and maybe some grease?

 

[gavin]

can't say I'd wanna drive to Fairbanks. Especially with gas at the price it is, and the wonderful ~14mpg I get lol.

it is VERY simple.
I thought I saw a thread around here that shows how to do it.

Jack up side of truck to get tire off.
Remove tire.
Remove brake parts.
Remove nut at end of axle shaft.
Remove 3 bolts holding hub/bearing assy.
Pull off.

Unfortunately, yes it is expensive. My mom's 2000'ish Blazer has the same thing, hub/bearing assy, at atleast half the price... doesn't make sense.

But it really is an easy job. Unfortunately, for a mechanic to do it, they would most likely charge "by the book."
meaning, if the book said it was a 2 hour job, you'd get charged for 2 hrs, even if it only took 'em 45 minutes.

and yes, one from a 4.0 will work.
The front end suspension parts are the same on all 2nd gen.

 

[storlied]

Update: I'm stressed and pissed. Ugh, I am now getting clunks and vibrations. It's the CV, right? Are those cheap? To test the hub, my buddy told me to jack the front, spin.. listen for noises... No noises. But driving, on the gas... bad sounds...... Help!!!!!

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Unfortunately, yes it is expensive. My mom's 2000'ish Blazer has the same thing, hub/bearing assy, at atleast half the price... doesn't make sense.

Gavin,
Does her Blazer have ABS? I think reason the hub cost so much for Explorers is due to the ABS sensor.

 

[gavin]

Update: I'm stressed and pissed. Ugh, I am now getting clunks and vibrations. It's the CV, right? Are those cheap? To test the hub, my buddy told me to jack the front, spin.. listen for noises... No noises. But driving, on the gas... bad sounds...... Help!!!!!

best way to check... well, not best, but a better way...
jack one tire off the ground.
hold tire at 10 and 2, push/pull, feel for play.
hold tire at 12 and 6, do the same.

if there's any play, it's bad.

Best way to check? remove possible problem bearing, turn by hand. If bad, it will have a "dry" feel to it.

No, half-shafts are not that cheap either.

B&C Carquest charges ~$60, + $140 or so core charge. That's getting it at their cost, too (I shop there a lot).

how to test the half-shafts?
jack tire off ground, make sure truck is in park (and rear tires chocked). Grab hold of half shaft, and check for any up/down/forward/back play. Even check for in/out play. It should have no movement (except for a slight bit of rotational movement).

Gavin,
Does her Blazer have ABS? I think reason the hub cost so much for Explorers is due to the ABS sensor.

yes, it does have front ABS.


another edit: are you sure it's not coming from the front driveshaft?
You have a 98, so it will have the ball-and-cage style cv-joint'ed d-shaft at the transfer case.
Remove front d-shaft, then test drive.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Update: I'm stressed and pissed. Ugh, I am now getting clunks and vibrations. It's the CV, right? Are those cheap? To test the hub, my buddy told me to jack the front, spin.. listen for noises... No noises. But driving, on the gas... bad sounds...... Help!!!!!

Sounds like the CV joint on the drive shaft where it bolts to the transfer case. Agin not serviceable. You have to replace the whole drive shaft. A remanufactuered drive sahft will run you $250.

If it's a front axle shaft it will run $60-90. You will have to remove every thing Gavin mentioned.

 

[Turdle]

Sounds like the CV joint on the drive shaft where it bolts to the transfer case. Agin not serviceable. You have to replace the whole drive shaft. A remanufactuered drive sahft will run you $250.

If it's a front axle shaft it will run $60-90. You will have to remove every thing Gavin mentioned.

Yup
I was just going to add that to the list.

Without being in the car to listen , or see the parts it could be any of the parts discussed causing a front end noise.
In fact, even experienced guys have a hard time diagnosing this.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Yup
I was just going to add that to the list.

Without being in the car to listen , or see the parts it could be any of the parts discussed causing a front end noise.
In fact, even experienced guys have a hard time diagnosing this.

I fought it for close to 6 months. I thought I was getting bad rebuilt front axle shafts.