98 ford explorer issues

[Homersipes]

I recently got an explorer and the engine light was on, had it checked and was an evap code, guy at garage told me it wasnt a huge deal, probably have a pinhole in one of the lines and not to really worry about it. It has ran fine up to 2 days ago. I got out of work headed home and the engine light started flashing, so I pulled over didnt hear anything strange or skipping, so I contined on. the light went back to solid, made it another 10 mins or so and the engine light started flashing again and had a huge power loss, then the power would come back kind of surging then it would go back to normal. I made it to within about a mile of my house and had to pull a hill, well I was doing about 3 mph when I got to the top, pulled over and thats where it sat. turn it over and it acted like it was out of fuel, I had just filled up that morning, but it would act as if it wanted tostart and run. figured the fuel pump was the issue. Well I got it home pulled it in the garage and got the heat to it, turn the key on and can hear fuel pump, check up on the rail has fuel to the port its kinda milky so I think I got some water and it froze up in lines and pump(full stream when key is turned on and cranked, not sure of psi) still no start and now it doesnt even pop or anything. So I pulled plugs out, has plenty of fire and no start. so I squirted a touch of starting fluid in throttle body, it popped back out of throttle body, just like an old carbed truck would do when its out of time. I have not scanned it yet, going to tomorrow night. It doesnt make any strange noises or anything. It is the ohv engine so it has a chain not belt. but it does act like it jumped time, would a stupid sensor do this??

 

[R1dd1cK]

Is it a v6 or v8?

 

[Homersipes]

4.0 overhead valves v6

 

[arco777]

Evap code is pretty easy to fix. True that it isn't a big deal but it is worth taking care of. Usually the solenoid fails but depends on what code you got specifically.

Could have a cam position sensor failure. Check for codes if you can, see what is stored. The flashing CEL was indicating misfires and the solid is indicating another issue. This is why it's a good idea to fix things like that evap issue early, because the light was already on you couldn't tell that another thing was failing until it was too late.

I would start by finding what code came up and go from there. The motor is not likely to go out of time, but if the cam position sensor has failed the PCM will not know when exactly to fire injectors and plugs. However you may find from what codes are stored a better idea of what failed.

 

[Homersipes]

scanned it yesterday and got 2 codes, an evap code, which I think I found the cause(rotted filler neck) and a misfire on cyl 2. all the plugs seem ok they were gapped around 60 thou so I regapped to 54 thou. got all junk gas out added 5 gals still no start. this is what I know.... it has spark, it has fuel, the plugs all fire, I dont have a compression gauge but it seems to have plenty according to my finger tester I checked the back 2 cylinders for for compression. the theft light DOES come on the goes off with all other lights when key is turned on, then it goes out when cranking. It seems to want to start. what seems wierd to me is the fact that it lost all power and only came up with 1 misfire, I thought for sure it was skipping on more than that.

 

[arco777]

If the fuel froze or had contamination, some Heet in the lines can help "dry out" the fuel. It will take a bit to work its way through the lines, which is a hassle involving letting it do its thing in the tank and then cranking long enough to work it all the way to fuel rail, but if you truly have contaminated fuel you might want to try that. Some gas stations are not well outfitted for the cold weather and their fuel supplies get contaminated with water.

If the misfire on 2 is consistent, check the plug wire for that cylinder. Perhaps it is damaged or has high internal resistance. Check the spark plug. I have had problems with plugs developing hairline cracks in the porcelain, which causes misfires. They can be hard to see. You may even want to check with a test light that the fuel injector for that cylinder is getting power pulses. The injector itself should be clicking as the engine runs, which can be verified with a mechanics stethoscope.

 

[Homersipes]

thats the deal it wont start at all and I have no clue where to start looking. I am assuming if the crank or cam sensor was bad it would have showed up when I scanned it?? I hate sensors, lol. In my experience if the timing chain broke, it would have thrown the cam and /or crank sensor codes, I had another car break timing belt and this happened, and just happened to my friends moms subaru. I mean everything that a gasoline engine needs to run it has spark fuel air and compression. Is there a way to test the timing like the older rigs, bring the #1 cyl to TDC and check position of rotor, although this doesnt have a rotor???? I am completely confused and I AM NOT going to start just throwing parts at it until I have a good idea of what it is.

 

[arco777]

Timing is probably fine. The OHV is known for the longevity of its timing chain.

Start with checking the #2 spark plug and wire as I mentioned. You don't have to throw parts at it, just check them out. Multimeter and visual inspection for both.

You can check the crank position sensor with a multimeter as well. Do a search for the format it outputs; most crank sensors are a simple hall effect unit and at some point in the rotation you should see something that can be observed on a multimeter. The cam position sensor is a similar setup, do a search on how to test that. Many Ford engines use the same sensors or sensors that operate the same internally, so a testing procedure for a different engine's sensor may apply.

If you do end up trying swapping parts, try junkyard bits. Sometimes small stuff like the crank position sensor can be had with the five finger discount, and other parts can be cheap too. It will give you an idea of how hard an item is to remove as well (like the cam sensor) without worrying about damaging your own vehicle.

 

[Homersipes]

okay was doing some reading, and found that while cranking engine ( one of those things I have never paid any attention to)the engine light should go out, well mine stays on, from what I read that would be the crank position sensor. I am going to go check the voltage to it, says it should be 1 volt. I swapped the #2 plug and wire with the #1 and no change.

 

[arco777]

I swapped the #2 plug and wire with the #1 and no change.

Well to be fair, that would move the misfire from one cylinder to another and be noticeable by codes only if the engine was running first

Let us know what happens on the crank sensor.

 

[Homersipes]

okay so tested the sensor, I cant even find the site that I found the info on now, daughter closed pages down on internet so this is what I got, it produced .54 volts ac with meter set on the 20 on VAc, and .356 ohms set at 2k. so that would bea half volt and 3.5 ohms correct? now if I am thinking right (wish I could find the page again) there is no plug connector for this so I probed the wires right off of the back of the senso so my reading are probably faulty anyways sick of it for the night, garage is full of water, gotta pull it out tomorrow sweep out the water and turn it around lol

 

[arco777]

okay so tested the sensor, I cant even find the site that I found the info on now, daughter closed pages down on internet so this is what I got, it produced .54 volts ac with meter set on the 20 on VAc, and .356 ohms set at 2k. so that would bea half volt and 3.5 ohms correct? now if I am thinking right (wish I could find the page again) there is no plug connector for this so I probed the wires right off of the back of the senso so my reading are probably faulty anyways

From a little quick research it would seem that the 4.0 uses a variable reluctance sensor which generates AC voltage as you said. The AC reading you mentioned seems to be within specifications. The crank sensor is probably fine.

Next I am thinking verify your Cam Position Sensor with multimeter testing. I hope it has not failed, as it is not super convenient to replace (or cheap) but they do last quite a while. Also I hear they can develop shaft play which causes issues.

Cold weather has been causing a few people's ignition control modules to fail recently but I think it was an all or nothing thing. Just a thought.

 

[Homersipes]

okay changed plugs, had orange fire, now it starts but floods itself out, disconnect fuel pump crank it over and dry cylinders, starts back up, runs about 15 seconds idling rough and dies:fire: I know its way rich, can smell fuel in exhaust, unplugged the coolant temp sensor, no change, not sure where to go now

 

[arco777]

Try unplugging the MAF while it's running.

 

[Homersipes]

I unplugged everything but that, the #2 cylinder is still dead, with it running I can pull the plug wire off of the coil and there is no change o the engine, if I pull any others off it obviously starts skipping. I pulled the # 2 plug out turned it over and it has plenty of compression, according to my trusty finger gauge again:biggthump SOOOOOOOO, I unplugged the fuel pump turned it over until all fuel was burned off, and had the wife start it as I sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body, and to my surprise IT RAN SMOOTHLY!! so I am uessing I got a plugged injector. I have never dealt with a fuel injector, can I take it out and clean it like a jet in a carb, or throw it away, or take it to a dealer to have cleaned?? would your diagnosis be the same?

 

[arco777]

Fuel injectors are not a common failure point but anything is possible. How many miles on that thing anyways?

On my 180k Explorer I grabbed a few 140K injectors from the junkyard. Took the seals off and pintle caps. Soaked all my old injectors and the new ones in Berryman's fuel injector cleaner for 3 days. Used an old tupperware container so I could agitate the solution. So much gunk came out. Made an adapter with a momentary switch/gator clips/injector plug to pulse 12v to an injector while I blasted air through it. Ohm tested each injector. Installed them with new seals and pintle caps. Installed the best injectors. Engine idled much smoother afterwards, better throttle response too.

In your case I would check that injector out. Listen while the engine runs using a mechanics stethoscope or screwdriver held to your ear to try to hear if it is clicking like the other injectors. Also use a noid light or test light to check that the PCM is pulsing power to it. Depending on your intake configuration you may be able to access the connector to ohm test it without removing the injector. If you do need to remove the injector it's usually not too difficult. I know on my first gen I had to pull the intake manifold off but on second gens there were a couple different manifold setups so I'm not sure about those. If you can get that injector working again with a soak in injector cleaner that's fine but you might have to install a junkyard or new one in its place if it has truly failed.

 

[Homersipes]

it has 150k on it, it had sat for almost 2 years before I got it, the price was right hahahaha free so far put a serp belt, brakes, and a starter. So I have to take the upper manifold off to get to the injectors? as I said, I have never dealt with them before. everything seems to be buried under everything else, kid hands to work on the damn thing lol. I could be wrong, but seems to lead to the injector being plugged, or not working when it runs smooth with carb cleaner, or am I missing something else?

 

[arco777]

In your case I would check that injector out. Listen while the engine runs using a mechanics stethoscope or screwdriver held to your ear to try to hear if it is clicking like the other injectors. Also use a noid light or test light to check that the PCM is pulsing power to it. Depending on your intake configuration you may be able to access the connector to ohm test it without removing the injector. If you do need to remove the injector it's usually not too difficult. I know on my first gen I had to pull the intake manifold off but on second gens there were a couple different manifold setups so I'm not sure about those. If you can get that injector working again with a soak in injector cleaner that's fine but you might have to install a junkyard or new one in its place if it has truly failed.

I don't know for sure on your model but would bet that you have to take the manifold off to replace injectors. They are usually sandwiched between the fuel rail and lower intake.

Before pulling everything apart, verify that injector is getting power, and see if you can hear it cycling/clicking.