98 front brake pad replacment

[mjmarchitto]

Does anyone have step-by-step instructions on replacing the front brakes on a 1998 Explorer Sport and rotor removal?

Time to do it and I don't have the $$. I have done it before on older vehicles and my 1994 Ranger and I think I remember that there were some tricks to the Ranger.

Thanks in advance for the help

 

[sbo76]

I have a 98 AWD X. The front pads are simple. Just remove the front tire. Take off the 2 bolts holding on the caliper (I think that they are 15mm). Pull the pads out of the Caliper and use a C clamp to depress the piston (leave the back pad in so you don’t have to put the C clamp directly on the piston) (go slow so that you don't shoot break fluid out of your reservoir). Lube all of the moving parts and put the new pads in the caliper. Inspect your rotors. (They might need a sharp strike with a hammer to break loose the rust) Look for groves or scaring. If needed take them to your local parts store and have them turned. Take one of your lug nuts and put it on hand tight to hold the rotor in place. Reinstall the caliper and Tire and you have just saved yourself a nice chunk of change. The fronts should take about 45 min for both sides (not including down time to get the rotors turned).

 

[BuckTales]

I like to take the cap off the brake fluid container while compressing the calipers. I put a towel around it incase any spills out.

 

[stubborn1]

Use the search feature here because there are tons of past posts on brake issues.

Two things I would recommend:

1. Use Lock-tite on the caliper bracket mounting plate bolts. These bolts only are removed if you end up taking off your rotors.

2. Crack the bleeder screw on the caliper before you push the piston back into the caliper. You don't want to push dirty contaminated brake fluid back into the system.

 

[jagarundi]

I just changed my fronts pads on my 98 AWD this morning. It's easy. Here's what you do:

Turn your wheel so that you have more room to work.
Jack up the truck
Take off your wheel
Loosen the top bolt on the caliper first and then the bottom. You'll need a 13mm gasket.
After getting the screws off, pull the caliper UP from the bottom, towards the top. You might have to use a something to give you some leverage from the bottom if the caliper doesn't want to come off right away.
Match the old pads with the new pads WHILE THE PADS ARE STILL ON THE ROTOR!
Crack open your hood and loosen the brake fluid top. You'll need to do this when you push your pistons back.
After matching up the pads, slap some of the anti-squeal jelly ALL OVER THE BACK of the pads.
Grab a C-clamp and screw the pistons all the way back. You'll see some brake fluid dribble as you do this.
Put your pads in.
Place the caliper back over the pads and tighten the bolts.
When you're done with BOTH wheels, get in the truck and pump up the brakes until they get firm. This pushes your pistons back against your rotor.
Crack a cold one because you're done!!

 

[ExplorerDMB]

One thing we do at our shop, we open the bleeder valve when we push the pistons back, so bad fluid or anything won't go back into the resvoir to clog anything up.

-Drew

 

[nailhead_sled]

Might also want to take this opportunity to pull the caliper slide pins, clean and re-lube them.