98' sploder xlt runnin rich

[NintendoKD]

posted in the newb section, and I recieved some help. however, it is time to move into the proper section for this. I am basically move all of the posts that were posted in the old to this one in the correct place.

Greetings Carbon based lifeforms, I am here to glean information on my newly purchased explorer xlt. I am a forum veteran and am no spring chicken when it comes to turning a wrench either. I don't know everything, which is why I am here, to consult the knowledge and wisdom of others in my quest to make my vehicle run safely and efficiently, for my family. The vehicle in question was purchased without a pink from a lady who left and went to kansas, and sold for a total of $400.00. It is my misfortune that the vehicle needs some kind of maintenance that which I am not farmiliar. When I have finished posting here I will follow up in the maint or trouble section like a good little person. The engine is the 4.0 v-6 auto, with a brand new filter, a crackhead, "no really" installed it backward, which I soon remedied. He also lost patience and severed and shredded the fuel lines running from the filter to the drivers side of the motor where the braided hoses begin. I have also repaired "albeit cheaply" with no leaks mind you, this monstrocity. The engine now runs, and does not throw a code. The air filter is new, and the gas is clean, there is also no air in the lines, I bled those first thing. The problem is this. The engine idles funny, and the thing is, it isn't consistent. Sometimes it idles fine, sometimes it sort of stumbles, like it wants to die. Under load it acts similarly, and It won't go over 45 regardless of throttle position. The exhaust also smells extremely rich, like a bad fuel/air mixture. O2 sensor? When I disconnect the IAC while running the engine stalls. Once again, no codes. I am stumped, befor I pay out the nose for parts, like fuel pump, iac, fuel pressure reg., EGR, I want to be sure that there isn't someone that has solved this problem in the past, I have read many unresolved posts that address similar issues with no definite answer on what fixed them, or what was wrong. the engine sounds good, no missing etc, however, the exhaust sounds like there is a leak, rumble, post det/backfire but not as loud. No exhaust leaks, there is a difference in the sound but you get the idea. I don't think it is the injectors, because it is running rich, and too much fuel is getting into the exhaust. No misfire so not bad plugs or wires, the only other thing is computer is bad or O2 is bad. I could be wrong, which is why I am here.

Thank you for any and all help,

Sgt Kevin A. Davies, USMC

 

[NintendoKD]

originally posted by: RICK

Could be a bad fuel pressure regulator. That could cause the truck to run extremely rich.

 

[NintendoKD]

pressure reg?

I bought platinums, to replace the possibly old plugs, and plan on doing a full tuneup. When I pull the plugs, i'll post pics, before I buy expensive ford parts from autojunk. I think that the plugs will be able to tell me a lot, I have no idea about the history of the motor, but according to the little info that I do have about it the problem has gotten worse from when it ran before. I bought the car from her cash so she has no reason to lie to me. There is a K&N sticker on it, but no filter or CAI. Could also be, EGR, vacuum, fuel pump, or injectors, possibly the blocked exhaust, or an o2 sensor, but the plugs should give me a pretty good Idea. I need to register it, and in CA, that means I need to smog it. It will not pass smog as it is. It's reg is only good till Oct.

 

[NintendoKD]

originally posted by: RICK

Here's info:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=231054

 

[NintendoKD]

thanks rick

ok, tried to buy a FPR at auto junk today, but no luck. I also learned something useful, my 96' sploder, is, in fact, a 98' sploder. With a production month of 09 meaning that it was a late production model 2wd xlt with a 4.0. After looking for "my" FPR and not finding it. I looked at the one auto junk has listed for it. The 98, looks like nothing that I have. I have a canister that has a braided steel line that is part of the canister and it has a vacuum connection, as well as an inlet and outlet in the front of the pass. fuel rail. Looking through other posts I found that this is a similar device to one that is an unobtainable part. Also the fuel level is off, cleaning the MAF didn't help, but putting 91 in the tank helped some.... I think. pulling the plugs tomorrow. I'll post some pics

 

[NintendoKD]

pictures

I promised photos, so here they are:
dirty engine bay, before I cleaned it and did the plugs, wires, maf clean.

clean er engine bay after work was done, still can't fix the fpr

pressure washed the engine bay and undercarriage, still a lot of work to do before shes reliable.

deep cycle, no more dead battery for this guy, hell yeah!

 

[NintendoKD]

fpr pics

Here are some pics of the fpr that I have, it has two bolts on the fuel rail, and the steel braided hose is part of the unit, has inlet, outlet, and vacuum. Oreiley, Napa, Autozone, and Carquest couldn't help me with this. I will install an inline fpr since mine dumps fuel and runs rich. No rule says that you have to only use one fpr LOL.

you can clearly see the braided line and the fpr in this photo

I saw a post with another unfortunate soul that had an fpr like this one, but I lost track of it. Not that it helps but here is the mileage, not bad for 400 bucks.

my ghetto fab fuel repair

 

[NintendoKD]

forgot to mention

I did a fuel pressure test, the results were that the pressure fluctuated, between having very high pressure to very low pressure, and everywhere in between. I was told to replace the fuel pump ASAP. I still think that it is the fpr. my motor does this neat trick, and can idle at about 150 rpms..... not good. I am going to post a link to that wierd fpr here: It appears that we have a similar problem, and I desperatrly need an FPR.

 

[NintendoKD]

pump issue

I did the same pressure test today, but instead of off of the fuel rail, I tested it at the "brand new" fuel filter. The results were the same, showing that regardless of whether or not the FPR is used the same symptom will loccur, with pressure never rising above 40 psi, and drastically dropping during revving. I will replace the fuel pump, and see from there, if the FPR indeed needs to bereplaced, or an entirely new symptom takes it's place. My gut says FPR, but my brain says go with the pump. Regardless, I need a new pump.

thanks,

Sgt Kevin A. Davies, USMC

 

[NintendoKD]

I have been thinking about this

Just spitballin here, but if the pump is going out and the motor is not getting enough fuel, then why does it smell like I have fuel in my exhaust??? guess I'll know more when I change the pump.

 

[NintendoKD]

for those follwing.

I have come to the solution. In my case along with a bad PCM, I also have a bad intake manifold gasket leak. I have since removed the intake manifolds and plan to soak them copiously in solvent to remove deposits and free up some flow. I will also replace the gaskets with new ones, pictures to be posted later. More goo dnews, battery is dead, likely due to the GEM toasting overnight "smelled like burnt plastic" Even if I fix everything else a windshield leak and a bad GEM still make me unroadworthy.

 

[NintendoKD]

need help

Ok, this is where I need help from a forum lik this. I need a GEM, and also a PCM. I tried the classifieds, however, was unsuccessful in finding what I was looking for. It is probably due to the fact that i'm not really how to search for a GEM other than the fact that it is called a GEM, or general electric module. I need to know what "exactly" I am looking for. I am also having similar problems with finding a suitable replacement for my PCM, and someone who can flash it, or program it.

thanks,

Sgt Kevin A. Davies, USMC

 

[BrooklynBay]

Contact some of the vendors on this site such as KBabiak, Rock Auto or James from Henson Performance.