99 XLT Brake Job---Please help | Ford Explorer Forums

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99 XLT Brake Job---Please help

jllodahl

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Joined
August 8, 2006
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City, State
Verona, WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 XLT
Changing all four rotors and pads....EZ question for someone who knows...how do I take off the front rotors?.......
 



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you first need to take the caliper out of the way and the rotor it should be out.

all 4 rotors they should come out same way.
 






I thought it looked like they should but rotor wouldn't budge, and chiltond manual said something about 95-99 explorers having to remove wheel hub nut and such.....any advice?
 






the whole job is to Remove the caliper bolts with a 15mm socket, hang the caliper by a wire so you don`t stress the hose. Remove the rotor, it will come right off. Brake pads go in the caliper, there are clips to help hold it in place.

When tightening the caliber bolts, make sure that they are very tight, as the wheel lug nuts. you will need to press the caliper pistons back up inside to make room for the new thicker pads.
 






Perhaps I am mistaken, but on my '98 XLT fronts I had to remove the caliper mounting bracket to get the rotor completely off. Two bolts on the rear holding it on. But, it should still move around and not be "stuck" in position. Unless it is rusted on. My rotor was seperate from the hub.
 






jllodahl said:
I thought it looked like they should but rotor wouldn't budge, and chiltond manual said something about 95-99 explorers having to remove wheel hub nut and such.....any advice?

I think the wheel hub nut is only holding the half axle to the wheel hub. Unless the 99 is different from the 98.
 






It depends: 2wd or 4x4?

2wd is just like every other 2wd rwd vehicle since the dawn of time. There is a dust cap, cotter pin, retainer, and spindle nut and thrust washer to remove, then the rotor (with the bearings) slides off the spindle.

4x4 is just like most donestic front wheel drive vehicles. The rotor is just sandwiched between the wheel and the hub. Reomve the wheel and caliper, and the rotor is *supposed* to fall off, although they seldom do. The back side of the rotor corrodes to the hub face, and the center of the hub rusts and swells, locking the rotor in place. As a last resort, you can remove the center nut from the hub, and the three bolts that hold the hub into the upright, and have the hub pressed out of the rotor at any good machine shop. Sometimes a BFH will jar the rotor loose, but that often results in brinnelled bearings which need to be replaced a few thousand miles later. (been there, done that) Some heat on the face of the rotor sometimes helps crack the corrosion loose, a three-jaw puller in conjunction with a ball-peen hammer usually works pretty well for me.

To prevent it from happening again, use a thin layer of anti-sieze on the face of the hub to prevent the corrosion from gluing the new rotor in-place.

-Joe
 






Thanks for all the help......especially Joe.....BFH...lots of sweat.....and a puller......and "they fell right off".......
 






ROFLOL! Happy to help!
 






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