A/C, blower motor runs, no air from vents except defrost vent. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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A/C, blower motor runs, no air from vents except defrost vent.

Okay I will take a look. The only leak I know is there is near the washer fluid and coolant tank (on v6 4.0 SOHC). There are small tubes there and I broke one when doing spark plugs. I put a joining straw in there and taped around it but that could be it now that I think about it. I know I know I was kind of in a hurry and redneck fixed it haha. I didnt think it would affect anything because the engine still ran. Anyone know what this tube could be? I know Im not being very descriptive but I can upload a pic if needed.

It's called plastic vacuum line and it goes to multiple devices under the hood and into the cabin. Auto parts stores sell it, but there are multiple sizes, so take a piece of the old line with you.
 



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What I did fella's is I went to Autozone, picked up several various rubber vacuum diameter hosing they have there and the plastic connectors, rubber hose fittings, sleeves and just rebuilt several of the lines from the vacuum sphere. The original lines from the sphere by the passenger right wheel in the engine bay are a bit hard and brittle but were not in an area that might cause impingement. The one line that did come off of it, I had to cut it and left about 8" from the sphere where it bends out to where the two lines connect via a OEM connector and rubber fittings. I just replaced the fitting with the Autozone rubber sleeves and rerouted a new rubber vacuum line of same diameter up to the vacuum line that comes off the passenger side of the engine intake manifold. You can find the vacuum line (red in color) that comes off the wiring harness bundle running parallel to the fuel injectors and under the ignition spark plug junction box. I just routed the vacuum line along the gray one that operates the valve going into the heater coil by the A/C unit area. I used some of that plastic wiring bundle coil you can find at Homedepot to protect the vacuum lines. It's easier to just take off the right front wheel and fender molding and all that area is exposed making it much easier to reroute and fix stuff. When I bought my 99 Ford Explorer in 2011, I believe it was in some sort of front end collision due to the shaddy paint job and finding a lot of body molding parts missing and stuff routed incorrectly. The vacuum sphere at the time was just floating around up above the fender flare molding so I had to find a place to bolt it onto when I was repainting the entire body and had to remove a lot of plastic trim and parts. Not sure that is where it goes but it's in a safe place now.
 






What I did fella's is I went to Autozone, picked up several various rubber vacuum diameter hosing they have there and the plastic connectors, rubber hose fittings, sleeves and just rebuilt several of the lines from the vacuum sphere. The original lines from the sphere by the passenger right wheel in the engine bay are a bit hard and brittle but were not in an area that might cause impingement. The one line that did come off of it, I had to cut it and left about 8" from the sphere where it bends out to where the two lines connect via a OEM connector and rubber fittings. I just replaced the fitting with the Autozone rubber sleeves and rerouted a new rubber vacuum line of same diameter up to the vacuum line that comes off the passenger side of the engine intake manifold. You can find the vacuum line (red in color) that comes off the wiring harness bundle running parallel to the fuel injectors and under the ignition spark plug junction box. I just routed the vacuum line along the gray one that operates the valve going into the heater coil by the A/C unit area. I used some of that plastic wiring bundle coil you can find at Homedepot to protect the vacuum lines. It's easier to just take off the right front wheel and fender molding and all that area is exposed making it much easier to reroute and fix stuff. When I bought my 99 Ford Explorer in 2011, I believe it was in some sort of front end collision due to the shaddy paint job and finding a lot of body molding parts missing and stuff routed incorrectly. The vacuum sphere at the time was just floating around up above the fender flare molding so I had to find a place to bolt it onto when I was repainting the entire body and had to remove a lot of plastic trim and parts. Not sure that is where it goes but it's in a safe place now.

The vacuum ball is supposed to be bolted down to the plastic inner fender just in front of the right front tire. It's held down with 2 small bolts and some speed nuts.
 






Ah, well I guess I got bolted it in the general area. lol! Thanks!
The vacuum ball is supposed to be bolted down to the plastic inner fender just in front of the right front tire. It's held down with 2 small bolts and some speed nuts.
 






Alright will do. Would vacuum leaks lead to poor MPG?
 






Alright will do. Would vacuum leaks lead to poor MPG?

Not typically, but it depends how bad they are. They introduce too much air into the engine, which makes it run lean and hotter.
 






Not typically, but it depends how bad they are. They introduce too much air into the engine, which makes it run lean and hotter.

What you say is sort of right, but practically speaking not really right either.
The car uses the O2 sensors to check if the combustion is right, so it will simply just add more fuel into the cylinder as necessary.
If the short term fuel trims and the long term fuel trims go above their maximum allowed values (25% or so on the explorer for the long term fuel trim) it throws on the Check engine light and starts doing some other "weird" stuff. But sadly I forgot what exactly it was. I think it goes into some safe mode and then uses the third (or third and fourth if you have a fourth) O2 sensor(s) downstream behind the catalytic converter for the engine management, or something like that.
That's obviously done this way so that it doesn't just totally unreasonably keep adding more and more and more and more fuel, which at some point of course would obviously be really bad.

So yes, vacuum leaks do affect the MPG negatively. But they don't just do it in an all simple manner, because the combustion is always monitored and optimized via the O2 sensors and the PCM adjusts for the extra air.
When the vacuum leak is big enough though (and it doesn't take much of a leak to be "big" enough) so that the PCM runs the engine outside of the proper operating parameters, that's when the engine REALLY starts running "wrong" or "bad", meaning most likely lean or whatever else the PCM programming might make it do then.

I'm writing it this way, because for one, as I said I'm not sure how our 2nd gen. Explorers PCMs react then, and because there are also a bunch of other examples of "modern" cars like my dad's Audi A8 for example, that will then just go into sort of a "failsafe" mode to protect the engine and ( in this case more importantly) to protect the (really awfully expensive) catalytic converters and will then only let you drive the car slower than about 35 MPH in order to get it to a dealer or garage and have it fixed (and pay a bunch of money).

P.S.: If you don't need to pass emissions tests and don't care much about pollution then you might of course not worry much about your catalytic converter. But if you have an older car and you live in Germany, or generally in Europe, or any other country that actually does have mandatory emissions tests where they do really measure and check if the catalytic converters operate and function according to the regulations before letting the vehicle back on the road - THEN you would definitely worry a lot more about your "valuable" catalytic converters.
Whenever I had to get rid of an old car in Germany for example, it was mostly because of them failing biannual emissions tests and usually not them failing the technical safety inspections part of the check. And that is simply a) because my cars were and still are always technically safe and b) because it's AWFULLY EXPENSIVE to replace a catalytic converter with a new one if the car fails the emissions test. Replacing a catalytic converter can easily cost more than an old cheap car is worth.
 






Alright will do. Would vacuum leaks lead to poor MPG?

Not typically, but it depends how bad they are. They introduce too much air into the engine, which makes it run lean and hotter.
What you say is sort of right, but practically speaking not really right either.
The car uses the O2 sensors to check if the combustion is right, so it will simply just add more fuel into the cylinder as necessary.
If the short term fuel trims and the long term fuel trims go above their maximum allowed values (25% or so on the explorer for the long term fuel trim) it throws on the Check engine light and starts doing some other "weird" stuff. But sadly I forgot what exactly it was. I think it goes into some safe mode and then uses the third (or third and fourth if you have a fourth) O2 sensor(s) downstream behind the catalytic converter for the engine management, or something like that.
That's obviously done this way so that it doesn't just totally unreasonably keep adding more and more and more and more fuel, which at some point of course would obviously be really bad.

So yes, vacuum leaks do affect the MPG negatively. But they don't just do it in an all simple manner, because the combustion is always monitored and optimized via the O2 sensors and the PCM adjusts for the extra air.
When the vacuum leak is big enough though (and it doesn't take much of a leak to be "big" enough) so that the PCM runs the engine outside of the proper operating parameters, that's when the engine REALLY starts running "wrong" or "bad", meaning most likely lean or whatever else the PCM programming might make it do then.

I'm writing it this way, because for one, as I said I'm not sure how our 2nd gen. Explorers PCMs react then, and because there are also a bunch of other examples of "modern" cars like my dad's Audi A8 for example, that will then just go into sort of a "failsafe" mode to protect the engine and ( in this case more importantly) to protect the (really awfully expensive) catalytic converters and will then only let you drive the car slower than about 35 MPH in order to get it to a dealer or garage and have it fixed (and pay a bunch of money).

P.S.: If you don't need to pass emissions tests and don't care much about pollution then you might of course not worry much about your catalytic converter. But if you have an older car and you live in Germany, or generally in Europe, or any other country that actually does have mandatory emissions tests where they do really measure and check if the catalytic converters operate and function according to the regulations before letting the vehicle back on the road - THEN you would definitely worry a lot more about your "valuable" catalytic converters.
Whenever I had to get rid of an old car in Germany for example, it was mostly because of them failing biannual emissions tests and usually not them failing the technical safety inspections part of the check. And that is simply a) because my cars were and still are always technically safe and b) because it's AWFULLY EXPENSIVE to replace a catalytic converter with a new one if the car fails the emissions test. Replacing a catalytic converter can easily cost more than an old cheap car is worth.

Well the OP had a tiny vac loss due to a small broken plastic vac line. I don't believe that would be enough to have a noticeable negative impact on this fuel economy, but maybe.
 






Well the OP had a tiny vac loss due to a small broken plastic vac line. I don't believe that would be enough to have a noticeable negative impact on this fuel economy, but maybe.
It's is mostly just going to affect the engine when it idles. And it will also have a little effect when running at low RPM.
But of course an engine running idle a higher RPM also lowers the overall MPG.

Any air coming in through a vacuum leak that bypasses not only the MAF (mass airflow sensor) but also the throttle valve when that it's closed or nearly closed has a similar effect as if the valve was open a little more than it should.

On the other hand, while a car is driving on the road or accelerating quickly then a vacuum leak will have much less of an effect, if not a completely negligible one even. For one, there's less pressure difference so less air comes in through the leak and secondly a naturally aspirated engine only sucks in as much air as it naturally sucks in.
To then make additional air go into the engine when the throttle valve is open (more than it naturally aspirates) wouldn't take a vacuum leak it would require a turbo charger or supercharger instead.

If you look at the intake throttle valve carefully you'll notice it has a small hole to let some air in, even when it's "fully" closed. That hole has a diameter about the size of a typical small plastic vacuum tube you can find all over the engine compartment. Whenever the engine breathes through that tiny hole is when a vacuum leak has it's full and largest effect.

P.S.:
By the way, if you happen to look for a vacuum leak and have big hose off, you can just easily and simply plug that little hole in the throttle valve with your finger while the engine runs on idle.
If it still keeps running even when you have that hole closed and the throttle valve is shut, then you know it has to be a bigger type of leak. If the engine suffocates quickly then you know the vacuum leak can't be all that large.
 






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