A/C Rear Line Leak

[Anthony413]

Hi everyone. New here and have a question on my 2011 xlt explorer. I noticed a puddle of coolant on the garage floor this morning below the drivers side muffler. Upon inspection there is a coolant leak from a flange where the ac and coolant lines meet (see pic). There was a white "fog" escaping as well. I assume that's ac refrigerant. The leak appears to be right at the base of one of the nuts. You can see a drip coming off the nut and it's "fizzing" from the gas escaping. Anyone have experience with this issue? I'm not sure if it's just a seal or if the lines are shot. I can't seem to find a diagram anywhere. Ford wasn't much help and told me to bring it in. Any help would be appreciated!

View attachment 158435

Did you get this problem fixed? I have this same issue noticed a hissing noise first then started getting a slow drip. Is this coolant or refrigerant? Only asking because the coolant currently in my explorer (2016 sport) is a orangish color. Seems like its comming from a gasket where the steel or aluminum part of the line goes into. Any help or input would be appreciated!!

 

[goosegoodman]

Just heard back from my stealership that both hoses that link back to the rear evaporator on my 2011 Limited Explorer (with about 75000km) have cracks in them that let all the coolant gas out. What gives??? It seems that they have rusted out near the evaporator.

OK, granted I live in Canada with ****ty weather all year long, but come on Ford! Of the 4 times a year I use my A/C and cooling seats in a year I find out the hoses are shot and the stealership is quoting me 1200$ + taxes to fix it (600$ for the 2 hoses and 600 for the work).

I'm thinking of pluging in the 2 damn hoses and says goodbye to the rear AC. Never used it really, except for cooling off the dog! Anyone else had these issues?

mcmanus_78 You are not alone. I had the same issue on my 2011 Ford Explorer XLT. The cost to repair the rear A/C lines $1500. I opted to plug the rear lines. Now, the same issue occurred on my 2016 Ford Explorer Sport. After waiting 8 months for the part (due to COVID) the parts arrived. Thankfully I purchased an extended warranty which covered the cost of repair. I have a strong feeling the rear A/C lines failure is a common issue, just not reported.

 

[peterk9]

Did you get this problem fixed? I have this same issue noticed a hissing noise first then started getting a slow drip. Is this coolant or refrigerant? Only asking because the coolant currently in my explorer (2016 sport) is a orangish color. Seems like its comming from a gasket where the steel or aluminum part of the line goes into. Any help or input would be appreciated!!

Welcome to the Forum.
If the leak is from the A/C line then it's refrigerant. If you are unable to fix it using some of the DIY methods posted here then you can either have the lines to the rear A/C unit blocked off or get it fixed by the dealer or perhaps a shop that deals with automobile air condition repairs. It might be an idea to get an estimate first from that shop before seeing the dealer. In any case, it will likely cost a bit.

Peter

 

[pnuticus]

Add our 2013 Explorer to the list. We may have 2 leaks - near the front and also behind the rear driver tire. For those that have cut away the silver heat barrier, what did you replace it with? I'm considering both alumbond and ACS' rear line set.

 

[Wabbit1]

I have a leak on me rear A/C lines. I included a link to giphy, its right where the hose goes into that block.
Leak from A/C
Will I have to replace the whole line to fix this issue?

 

[peterk9]

I have a leak on me rear A/C lines. I included a link to giphy, its right where the hose goes into that block.
Leak from A/C
Will I have to replace the whole line to fix this issue?

Welcome to the Forum.
Your thread has been merged with this existing one on the same issue.
Check out the posts and you will see others with the same issue. Replacing the lines isn't cheap.

Peter

 

[Wabbit1]

Welcome to the Forum.
Your thread has been merged with this existing one on the same issue.
Check out the posts and you will see others with the same issue. Replacing the lines isn't cheap.

Peter

Thank you,
I'm fairly confident in my abilities to work on vehicles. If I could find buy the lines online somewhere, would it be fairly inexpensive for the parts?

 

[peterk9]

Have a look here.

Rear AC Lines for 2016 Ford Explorer | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com

Peter

 

[notchjonsn1]

I have a leak on me rear A/C lines. I included a link to giphy, its right where the hose goes into that block.
Leak from A/C
Will I have to replace the whole line to fix this issue?

That's where mine is leaking. I cleaned the area cut away some of the silver foil material rolled up some JB weld putty and put a rubber hose with a hose clamp over it. Used two cans of freon from Walmart and running cold for almost a month now

 

[leejooo]

Welcome to the Forum.
If the leak is from the A/C line then it's refrigerant. If you are unable to fix it using some of the DIY methods posted here then you can either have the lines to the rear A/C unit blocked off or get it fixed by the dealer or perhaps a shop that deals with automobile air condition repairs. It might be an idea to get an estimate first from that shop before seeing the dealer. In any case, it will likely cost a bit.

Peter

I just got a quote for my 2016 explorer (98 000km ) to fix this issue $3800, leak in the evap and the line.. Is there a block off kit anyone can suggest? will the dealer do this?

 

[peterk9]

I just got a quote for my 2016 explorer (98 000km ) to fix this issue $3800, leak in the evap and the line.. Is there a block off kit anyone can suggest? will the dealer do this?

There are several posts in this thread about block off kits/blocking the rear A/C. Goto the 'Search' at the top right and just type in Block and then specify to "search this thread" and click on "Search". You will find them. Good luck.

Peter

 

[Satz]

I just got a quote for my 2016 explorer (98 000km ) to fix this issue $3800, leak in the evap and the line.. Is there a block off kit anyone can suggest? will the dealer do this?

I have one of these [from ebay] in my explorer. worked great for a few years and this year a new leak started at the top valve you hook up to. It was interesting as when you check vacuum and set pressure this top-line valve piece was completely enclosed by the connector. so things look great but leaks once the connector is removed. The top line piece needed to be replaced. 120$ - the only piece that can be changed in the system without the entire line. so the AC is back and running cold again!. 190k and running still. I paid 50$ for the block off kit. Installed by a local mechanic so cannot comment on price as each time it was 1 hr of labor.

 

[Professor_Tomorrow]

My 2015 Explorer is leaking refrigerant at the rear, under the driver side wheel well where the lines enter the cabin. I understand this is typical for this model and many others to develop leaks in this area. I understand it is very labor extensive to remove and replace the line due to how it 'snakes' under and in between the unibody.

I know this topic has been posted and discussed elsewhere, but please bear with me. I've seen various 'fixes' and 'work arounds' related to this issue. One I have not read about is buying a new line and using a section of it as a 'donor' in order to fix the leaking line. Is it possible to disconnect the line at the junction in the rear of the vehicle, cut out the leaking section and splice in the new section?

Also people who have given me advice on repairing this leak have almost all mentioned evacuating the system. Isn't already evacuated due to the refrigerant leaking out?

Thanks.

 

[Odrapnew]

You may be able to splice it. Just have to make sure it's completely sealed.

As for evacuation, it's more for moisture. You will need to pull a vacuum on the system to draw out the moisture. If you don't, you risk corrosion from the inside out.

Also, most AC experts say to replace the drier since it has been exposed to atmosphere air, which has a lot of moisture in it compared to an evacuated system.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Professor_Tomorrow.
Please keep us in the loop if you go ahead with this repair. Thanks.

Peter

 

[Professor_Tomorrow]

Just an update and some further questions. I was finally able to pin point the leak. Its right where the lines meet the fitting that connects to the rear evaporator lines. I tried to use an epoxy type 'weld' to seal it to no avail. I Cut the lines near the leak and am in the process of plugging them with Dorman termination plugs.

My question is once I have evacuated the system and ensured it is sealed, do I need to add PAG oil? I tried to find an answer online but could not really find an answer. Does the vacuum pump remove only 'light weight' particles like water? Or does it also suck out some or all of the PAG oil?

I am only plugging the lines until I can find a set of 'donor' lines to splice in as mentioned above.

Would the vehicle give some signs of low PAG oil before the compressor just fails?

Thanks again for the information and the warm welcome.

 

[Professor_Tomorrow]

I found this on a very handy site to reference. I access it through the library's MelCAT system. Its a site called Auto Repair Source.

I find it odd that it states to add the PAG oil and THEN evacuate the system, check for leaks and charge refrigerant. Could this be due to the assumption that one is using a professional extraction machine which filters out the impurities and adds the R134a and PAG oil back into the system?

And there is this chart which indicates how much PAG oil to add for each type of part replacement. It too must make an assumption that the only PAG oil lost is that left inside the component, which in this case are the 2 aux refrigerant lines.

Again any insight would be appreciated.

 

[mguy13sport]

AC is blowing hot in my car. My car looks just like this car... I'm gonna try to do this myself without replacing the lines

 

[Odrapnew]

I found this on a very handy site to reference. I access it through the library's MelCAT system. Its a site called Auto Repair Source.

View attachment 340640
I find it odd that it states to add the PAG oil and THEN evacuate the system, check for leaks and charge refrigerant. Could this be due to the assumption that one is using a professional extraction machine which filters out the impurities and adds the R134a and PAG oil back into the system?

And there is this chart which indicates how much PAG oil to add for each type of part replacement. It too must make an assumption that the only PAG oil lost is that left inside the component, which in this case are the 2 aux refrigerant lines.

View attachment 340641

Again any insight would be appreciated.

My understanding is that the vacuum pump does not pull out the oil or not enough to cause an issue. The oil is a liquid and the pump is mainly pulling a static vacuum, so there's no real air flow to pull the liquid. The gas is suspended, so it can be pulled out.

Another reason to add the oil first is after you evaccuate and check that it holds the vacuum pressure, you charge it with refrigerant without opening the system. It would be difficult to near impossible to add the oil without breaking the seal and exposing it to moisture.

 

[Professor_Tomorrow]

AC is blowing hot in my car. My car looks just like this car... I'm gonna try to do this myself without replacing the lines

I watched this video as well. Its only a very small percentage of vehicles which have failed seals. Most have leaks in the line itself. A common failure point is where the line meets the fitting.

Where the arrow is pointing is the failure point. Ford engineers got this one completely wrong. They have rubber hoses under the fabric heat shields. The idea is to give the lines some flex for travel of the suspension. The issue is that due to the flexing it creates a weak point at the joint. Its the same as taking a metal coat hanger and bending it gently back and forth. It eventually becomes weak in that area and will break.

The common opinion is that its corrosion from road salt, but I call bulls*&t. If there was going to be corrosion it would be where the aluminum line connects to the rubber hose under the heat shields. Mud, water, sand and salt collect inside these sleeves and stays there. Its like keeping it under salt water for years.

Just my 2 cents. If you haven't already, buy the UV dye and a UV flashlight to be sure its the seals. I did on mine and detected zero UV dye at the seal/joint. There was plenty at the stress point.

Best of luck with your repair. BTW this isn't an actual picture of my Explorer. I found this one here on the forum.