ABS problems

[anti*commander]

I went on a road trip with a few friends to colorado, doin about 85 the whole way there from illinois. On the last few hours of driving, my ABS light comes on. It has yet to go off and the other day i had a close call where if i had ABS would not have been so close. ANYTHING i can do to fix this, im very VERY tight on cash now and would rather not bring it into a shop if i dont have to.

TIA

 

[Cobraguy]

When you start the car, the ABS light should be flashing at you. Count the flashes. I believe it's a 2 digit code. And I believe it repeats before the ABS light stays on for good. That code will help guide you. It's more than likely a sensor. Let's hope it's a rear sensor in the rear differential. Those are cheap. The front ones are expensive. Get us the code and let's see if we can help you. By the way, if there are multiple codes, you will only get one until that one is fixed. Then the next one will flash. You fix them one at a time. You need a scan tool to pull all the codes at once.

 

[anti*commander]

i think you are thinking of the airbag light, that one blinks to give you a code. If my ABS light blinks i think i would be the only explorer who does.

Now i also have another problem, this morning i got up and drove to the gym and on my way back i notice that my battery light was on and the gauge was about 1/4 to 1/3 of a charge, WTF? I guess today ill go get the battery and the alternator tested.

I need a new car...

 

[Cobraguy]

I'm sorry...you are correct. I was thinking about the airbag light. My bad.
But I still hope its a rear sensor for you! I also wonder if the bad charging system might have something to do with it.

 

[Gus Gorilla]

A bad charging system can cause all kinds of odd things to happen. Get that fixed first. When they disconnect the battery the code will be cleared. It may take a few trips for the light to set again. If it's cleared, get someone to cycle the key while you listen and feel the ABS module next to your master cylinder. You don't need to start the engine. It should buzz and vibrate when the key is cycled to on but only for a second. If the ABS controller runs it's startup test, it's probably OK. That's good since it's the more expensive part. If the light comes back on, the codes can be pulled with a scantool. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think any generic code reader can pull ABS codes because it's a safety issue. Any Autozone or O'Reiley's will pull codes and tell you for free.

 

[anti*commander]

aight, thanks for the quick replies, i will go to autozone later today and have the battery checked and get some codes pulled

 

[Cobraguy]

I don't think they can pull ABS codes can they? My scanner needs separate software to get those.

 

[anti*commander]

i fixed my charging problem, turns out it was the alt. And autozone was not able to pull ABS codes, and the light is still on. Damn!

 

[fraxinusalba]

ABS is most likely a sensor and probably the one in the rear differential. You can check to see if the sensors are good with an ohm meter - no resistance or infinite resistance, its bad. You can disconnect the front ones at the connector to check them. You'll have to remove the one from the differential to check.

I'd check the rear one first since they are prone to fail. Has one bolt holding it in - remove bolt, twist and pull on sensor at same time to loosen O-ring, sensor should come out with some slight wiggling and pulling. Clean around the sensor first so no dirt or rust falls into differential.

Replacement part is about 10 bucks - at least that's what it cost a year ago.

 

[96eb96]

i fixed my charging problem, turns out it was the alt. And autozone was not able to pull ABS codes, and the light is still on. Damn!

You have to either read the code with a special scanner (ask around in shops, they may do it for a few bucks if you don't want diagnosis) or guess. This code give you a big clue. Nothing flashes here.

Also, like the other poster said, you can guess and replace the sensor in the rear diff, but it can also be an issue with the sensors in the front wheels too.

What I use for ABS is: www.obd-2.com with the iso option. Its is under $150, and reads just about any code that your explorer can throw. It takes a bit of time to master, but it paid for itself many times over.

 

[xplorercrazy]

If the ABS controller runs it's startup test, it's probably OK. That's good since it's the more expensive part.

Actually the HCU or hydraulic control unit(the one with all the lines coming and going to it) is in most cases(at least on Fords) more expensive than the ECU(electronic control unit). And on high mileage vehicles the HCUs do fail quite often as the little solenoids and valves go bad inside. On most of the vehicles I have diagnosed it usally has been a bad HCU, broken wires, faulty wheel speed sensors, or a bad ECU.

Your cheapest option on ABS systems is to find out what code the computer is setting(which requires scan tools with special software to access) which will tell you which circuit(not what part) is having problems. From there it is a matter of following the diagnostic procedures to find what exactly or which part is bad.