AC doesn't blow cold (In the Summer)

[mikeh]

I have a 98 SOHC XLT and last year toward the end of the year it started not blowing as cold on the low setting of the AC. I had never even used the high setting prior to this year. After that I started using the high setting for the AC all the time to get it to blow anything cold.

I know it's winter but I have time to fix it these days. Does this just sound like a freon leak or could it be my compressor?

Can the home mechanic fix freon (or whatever they call it these days) leaks or do I have to take it somewhere? Can the home mechanic add this stuff to make it last another year or so?

Mike H.

 

[jimmiecakes]

Definitely sounds like it's losing it's charge (R-134a in the '98).

Anything past a simple recharge using one pound cans is going to require some specialized equipment.... a vacuum pump at the very least. One also has to bear in mind that A/C service is chock full of gotchas and can seriously injure the unaware.

I also have to remark about the environmental aspects of A/C service without refrigerant recovery equipment. We don't own this planet, we are simply borrowing it.... from our grandchildren.

 

[ok89]

A very common problem with our A/C systems is that the Accumulator has a wrap around it. This prevents moisture from evaporating from the surface. The surface rusts and voila no more freon. They have a new design for the accumulator now. I just got mine replaced about a week ago. Cold as ice now. However it costs a pretty penny.

 

[MSTNGGUY88]

I do a/c work and you can do it yourself but I would recomeend using guages so you make sure your head pressure doesn't get too high while recharging. You can get You can get what i call a vapor lock and you're head pressure will skyrocket and it won't cool. I wouldn't advice doing your own a/c work if you don't have someone around that knows what they are doing or take it to someone. The head pressure with 134-a gets higher than regular freon does. IMO take it someone and just pay them. It'll be cheaper in the end to let them use the freon sniffer to find the leak or all the leaks at that and charge it one time than for you to keep charging it over and over.

 

[jimmiecakes]

I do a/c work

Just out of curiosity, is R-12 still available where you live? Here, the only people that can get it work on construction and forestry equipment. Last time I was allowed to purchase R-12 it was right around 1000 Canadian coconuts for a 30#.

The effect you mention with head pressure is actually called "slugging" - liquid refirgerant entering the compressor inlet. This can be a very expensive noise.

But you are very right.... easiest and cheapest (in the long run) is to take your A/C work to a qualified shop. This is usually the most environmentally friendly course of action as well.

BTW, here in Alberta, if I vent refrigerant to atmosphere I can be find $50,000 - and this is me, personally. My boss doesn't do quite as good.... he get's fined $500,000. I refuse to this this law for a "road test"

 

[MSTNGGUY88]

I never got my liscense my r-12 or 20 so I can't personally get it but it cost around 500 for a 30# last I heard. Oh definetely don't fill your system with liquid. OMG that would cause problems. You are right abotu that. But the 134-a still gets a little higher head I noticed than 12 even trying to not get liquid. I normally run a little less 134 when converting a system. We can vent 134 here into the air just not 12 or 20. Atleast someone else agrees wiht me about letting a professional do it.

 

[jimmiecakes]

Only thing I can do with R-12 is suck it out of someones system and hope that last batch I cleaned and sold to the heavy equipment shop was clean enough for them to buy the next batch.

R-134a molecules are smaller than those of R-12 so a 134 system needs to be real, real "tight". It's also not as good as the 12 at removing heat during the evaporation process hence the higher required high side pressure.

For older systems, we must convert to 134. This can make it tough since many older systems now contain so called "drop in" refrigerants. Bring me one of these and the disposal costs just got a hole lot bigger .

Two ways to convert from R-12 to R-134a. The right way is spendy but comes with a warranty. The cheap way is.... well, it's cheap and has no warranty at all. If the compressor calves, it costs many dinero to get back to a system that I will trust enough to warranty.

Ahhh, the automobile.... truly a two edged sword...

 

[MSTNGGUY88]

On my persona; cars I just bleed the system and pull a vacuum, check it for leaks, out a new orfice or accumulator, put new fittings, and recharge. So I guess I do it the cheap way you can say but I have never had a compressor go out or any othr family members. Don't get me wrong, I know a weak compressor will more than likely die with the new stuff in it. Luckily none of ours have had weak systems before I've converted but that is just the way I have always done it. When I say I, i'm referring to me and my father. He owns an Applaince repair service and I have always worked with him even though I have also went to college and I'm a Network Tech. So I have picked up everything I know from his many years of experiences. I always say the older people that have done it all there lives know best most times. We have always done central units and pull outs. We only do car systems for us and family not for a living but the 134 goes in the central also before this newer puron come out.

 

[jimmiecakes]

All of our suppliers are getting **** about replacement compressors. New condensors, orifice tube and receiver, sometimes even an inline filter, complete system flush.....

If theres a problem and they find old shrapnel in a warranty compressor it's my employer that pays the bill. Makes for a real unhappy camper