ACCompresser

[kps36]

I think the bearing/clutch went out on the AC Compressor. I needed to turn on the defrost and a MAJOR noise came from the engine. I lifted the hood, turned the AC back on and the noise, HEAT, and a burning smell. I am going to either leave the air off until I can to it or get a 'short' belt and bypass. My question is, the top compressor assembly (the one that runs off of the belt) looks like comes apart in the middle, like it comes in 2 parts that bolt together. I haven't called around for prices, and the chiltons was NO help. If it does in fact come in 2 parts and all I have to buy is the front part, which looks like it houses the clutch/bearing/pulley assembly, i wont have to drain the freon in order to change it out. ANY and all insight is greatly appreciated.
thnx guys.

 

[slow-demon]

The A/C compressor clutch is made up of three different parts. The clutch, Pulley, and the field coil. The bearing is part of the pulley. The outer most part is the clutch and can be removed by first removing the one bolt and then sliding the clutch out. Be careful when you remove the clutch because in the splines is shims that control the clearance of the clutch to the pulley. After removing the clutch, you can remove the pulley which is held on by a snap ring. It should just slide right out or you may have to pursuade it a little with two little prybars. After you remove the pulley you will expose the field coil which may not be damaged. After installing the new pulley, you can install the new clutch and make sure to transfer the shims that go in the splines. Make sure there is sufficient clearnce between the clutch and the pulley so that the A/c won't be engaged all the time.

 

[DrewP]

I don't mean to be a big pessimist but I've seen compressors that have completely seized and a new clutch would do nothing to help them. One guy wouldn't turn off his AC and the belt spun over the pulley so long that it caught his whole engine on fire and melted his car to the ground.

Anyway, I hope a new clutch does the trick for you.

 

[DocMorro]

I heard a noise like that a little over a year ago. I was in denial, not admitting the whole system needed major repairs. It would have cost over $1200 to fix. With help from my wife I converted the system to the new R34 refridgerant. I bought a compressor, clutch, and actuator vale from Auto Zone, $375. It came with a a one year warranty. Wouldn't you know the compressor went out again a few days after the warranty expired.

Good luck,

------------------

 

[mike91]

I too am having problems with my AC compressor, or at least it seems. It turns on and off now constantly. Its cold weather over in NY so I haven't had my ac on in a long while. I hear it click on and then ten seconds later, click off.
My trucks battery guage shoots to the left (low) and the car's idle drops as well. The car then seems to drive well; however, I cannot tell if this is doing any damage (HP is there and the car runs fine). Please tell me whats wrong before I smash the damn thing with a bat.

 

[Extreme4x4]

The Explorer/Ranger uses the FX-15 compressor. This compressor is known for suffering what is known as "Black Death." What this means is that the teflon seals inside disintigrate and distribute themselves throughout the entire A/C system. Even with a brand new compressor, it will soon go bad because you cannot flush these particles out of the condensor and evaporator. Best thing to do is replace all. Also, the FX-15 does not work well with R134. This will cause premature failure, due to the pressures it runs at. All the A/C experts say, if your system is R12, continue with R12 as long as it can still be got. Even the FS-10 in the F150's do not last as long with R134, than R12. If you want to read more about this, and ask questions to the experts, go to: Dead Link Removed

 

[DrewP]

Replacing the entire AC system is a pretty brutal solution...particularly the evaporator. It seems like a new compressor and filter/drier would do the job. Shouldn't the filter...filter out any small particles left from the previous compressor? One should always check the condensor/evaporator for clogs after a compressor seizes by verifying that air will pass through them.

 

[Extreme4x4]

See my above post and go to the link. Ask the experts these questions. I am only repeating what I have read from the experts. They do not make any money for posting on these boards.

 

[kps36]

Well, Thanx for all the input. Reading thru these kinda scares me a little though. As it turns out, it is NOT the bearings.The compressor seized up. I am 'short-belting' for now, thank goodness it is the fall in the NC mtns. and won't need it. I do like the added power by shorting it. DocMorrow the $375 dollar job sounds great, since i am already R134. Please EMail details if you could please. I think the guy was right about 'trash' in the system now. I may have to go thru a couple of filters till it's clean. Oh Well, I have some time to educate myself and get some prices. AC crap kinda scares me. THANX for all the insight and thoughts.

 

[OzMaToz]

Like you said thank god its starting to get cold. At the end of fall my comp siezed, which ended up toasting the bearing in the pulley. The pulley stopped rotating and man did things get hot under the hood. Fortuneatly I was only half a mile from home when I started to smell the belt burning. When I got home I checked under the hood and the clutch and pulley were white hot. Almost see through. I poked at the clutch with a stick and actually deformed it. How much does a whole new package cost? (clutch, pulley, comp). Has anyone else had problems with a "new" system dying again because of this "Black Death"?

------------------
The Oz Man -94XLT-
ozmatoz@hotmail.com

 

[vang]

I just got the black death on my a/c. I'm going to have to replace everything. Damn black oil is everywhere. Does anyone know a good a/c compressor brand to buy. I hear the Ford OEM compressors are notorious for black death.