Accumulator Removal?

[snoranger]

Like this.

 

[Maniak]

Like this.

and just for more clarification, The above pic is setup to rotate counter clockwise. That trick does work really well. I use this method almost every time I work on something. That way I don't have to use near as much muscle. Also, normally this is done with a pair of combo wrenches (open on one side and boxed on the other)

However, for the accumulator, your going to need to use a wrench that is open on both sides as the working wrench and the combo wrench as the leverage wrench

~Mark

 

[willindsay]

and just for more clarification, The above pic is setup to rotate counter clockwise. That trick does work really well. I use this method almost every time I work on something. That way I don't have to use near as much muscle. Also, normally this is done with a pair of combo wrenches (open on one side and boxed on the other)

However, for the accumulator, your going to need to use a wrench that is open on both sides as the working wrench and the combo wrench as the leverage wrench

~Mark

Well that trick is no help to me then as the wrench I have isn't open on both ends. But I'm sure it'll come in handy later.

I think that once I get the 7/8" wrench I'll be able to get it. If not out comes the drill and I'll bolt a cheater pipe on.

 

[philm]

Mark, CCW doesn't mean squat if you can't see the working end of the wrench (the head of the bolt or whatever could be going into the wrench from either side.) That is a great trick in a pinch. I've been using that one forever.
It never ceases to amaze me how many people try to do stuff like this without the two most essential tools: A big ass mallet and an assortment of cheater pipes of different lengths and diameters. As for this particular job, the best thing around is a homemade flarenut wrench. Get a good quality 1-1/8" or 28mm box wrench and cut a gap in it (Dremel, etc.) that's just wide enough to slip over the skinniest part of the tube. I've done that many times for oil cooler lines.

and just for more clarification, The above pic is setup to rotate counter clockwise. That trick does work really well. I use this method almost every time I work on something. That way I don't have to use near as much muscle. Also, normally this is done with a pair of combo wrenches (open on one side and boxed on the other)

However, for the accumulator, your going to need to use a wrench that is open on both sides as the working wrench and the combo wrench as the leverage wrench

~Mark

 

[Maniak]

Mark, CCW doesn't mean squat if you can't see the working end of the wrench (the head of the bolt or whatever could be going into the wrench from either side.) That is a great trick in a pinch. I've been using that one forever.
It never ceases to amaze me how many people try to do stuff like this without the two most essential tools: A big ass mallet and an assortment of cheater pipes of different lengths and diameters. As for this particular job, the best thing around is a homemade flarenut wrench. Get a good quality 1-1/8" or 28mm box wrench and cut a gap in it (Dremel, etc.) that's just wide enough to slip over the skinniest part of the tube. I've done that many times for oil cooler lines.

By ccw I mean as your looking at that pic push the top from right to left. If you wanted to push it left to right you need to put that top wrench on the other side of the lower wrench.

~Mark

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, that CW/CCW is a visualization technique, you see it in your mind, not necessarily with your eyes.

 

[philm]

Heh heh, I know what he meant. I just would have added "with the bolt going into the page" or "with the nut coming out of the page." or just took a pic where you could see it for yourself. It's like when people who have no idea where you're coming from say "I'll meet you on the right side of the street" or "go to Main street and hang a right" (dead ends not withstanding.) Just visualize that you're looking at a brake disk from the outside and those wrenches are on the back of a caliper. Even though the wrenches are going CCW in the pic, the bolt is going CW.

 

[philm]

Oops. 'just went out to measure them on my '97 AWD. According to my Mitutoyo Digimatic, they are in fact 1-1/16" and 7/8". Must be the only SAE sized stuff on the whole truck.

Mark, CCW doesn't mean squat if you can't see the working end of the wrench (the head of the bolt or whatever could be going into the wrench from either side.) That is a great trick in a pinch. I've been using that one forever.
It never ceases to amaze me how many people try to do stuff like this without the two most essential tools: A big ass mallet and an assortment of cheater pipes of different lengths and diameters. As for this particular job, the best thing around is a homemade flarenut wrench. Get a good quality 1-1/8" or 28mm box wrench and cut a gap in it (Dremel, etc.) that's just wide enough to slip over the skinniest part of the tube. I've done that many times for oil cooler lines.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ford went back to SAE sizes on many things back in the 90's, they finally got the hint that we didn't need the metric system.

 

[willindsay]

Ok just though I'd update this. I finally got the right wrenches and still no luck. It's probably just a lack of strength/leverage on my part. So I'm gonna call a few shops and see if they can help me.

Thanks for all the help I did learn several good tips from this thread I'm sure will come in handy.

 

[philm]

You sure you're twisting the big nut (and not the smaller welded fitting?)

Ok just though I'd update this. I finally got the right wrenches and still no luck. It's probably just a lack of strength/leverage on my part. So I'm gonna call a few shops and see if they can help me.

Thanks for all the help I did learn several good tips from this thread I'm sure will come in handy.

 

[willindsay]

You sure you're twisting the big nut (and not the smaller welded fitting?)

Yes I'm twisting the right fitting and you have to twist both anyways so you don't break the hoses. I think it's just my lack of strength I'm no where near the strongest person never played a sport in my life and only recently got into do mechanic work our of necessity to save money.

 

[Iron Weasel]

Yes I'm twisting the right fitting and you have to twist both anyways so you don't break the hoses. I think it's just my lack of strength I'm no where near the strongest person never played a sport in my life and only recently got into do mechanic work our of necessity to save money.

Fun science stuff in this post.

When working with cars & trucks, it's always handy to remember the following equation:

τ = r X F

τ - torque.
r - length.
F - force.

Basically, torque equals length multiplied by force. The shorter the distance between the connecting axis (the nut on the evaporator core) and the end of the lever arm (the wrench) the more force (your muscle strength) is needed to move the connecting axis. If you can't supply enough force then you need a longer lever arm which will apply more torque to the connecting axis. Find (or buy) a 3' section of steel electrical conduit that's large enough to fit over the end of your wrench. That's your "cheater" which allows you to deliver more torque with the same amount of force. Using two wrenches as was described previously in the thread accomplishes the same thing, but if you need even more, you have to come up with a longer lever arm or supply more force.

The smaller nut on the end of the accumulator doesn't move. The only reason that nut is there is so that you can use a backing wrench on it to keep it from twisting while you turn the larger nut on the evaporator core.

 

[philm]

'a smashing recapitulation there m8. The only things I would rpt./add. (For slightly easier jobs,) put the two wrenches as close to 30 deg. apart as possible and squeeze the two wrenches together with both hands ('best not to snip off your fingertips in between the two wrenches.) you will never bust a knuckle using this method. In this particular case, use two cheater pipes -i'd use 2-3 foot, 2" black pipe (plumbing dept.) here.- Hold the 7/8" one and turn the 1-1/16 one from the passenger side towards the driver's side(with the wrenches pointing up.) If it doesn't move, you need longer pipes. If the wrench breaks or spreads open, you need thicker wrenches. I don't care how weak you are, you can do this. Use the force luke. Put two 1-1/16" wrenches side by side on the nut? Always protect your eyes.
Force!
-Phil

 

[willindsay]

I might go get some pipe and give it a try. I'm gonna call around to a few shop tomorrow if I get time first. If they want over $20 dollars to change it I'll be goin to get some pipe. Otherwise I'll just have them do it.

 

[Iron Weasel]

I know it sounds funny, but it might be worthwhile to take your hood off.

It'll give you a lot more room to maneuver the wrenches or cheater bar around and if you're feeling adventurous then you could stand on the fender or cowl and use that much more leverage to your advantage.

 

[joecrna]

Glad Im not the only one that does stuff like this. Can't you just see it. Middle aged dude standing on the engine/inner fender of his Explorer, big long pieces of pipe slid down over 2 forged wrenches pullin and cussin at the thing. My nieghbors love me. I don't think I've even seen any of them wash their own cars in the 15 years I've lived here.