Adding a dashboard liftgate release

[crowtc]

I posted this on Reddit while the forums were down, but I figured it would be a good idea to repost here for a better response.

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My 2012 Explorer XLT does not have a power liftgate (and TBH, I don't really need it). It seems weird to me that there is no button in the cab that releases the latch, especially since it appears that the release mechanism is electronic, not mechanical.​

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My left side dash button panel currently only has the single "tow" button. I am considering adding the 2-button version (BB5Z-13D730-CA - liftgate+tow) or the 3-button (BB5Z-13D730-AA - liftgate+tow+auto-park) and using the liftgate button to actually trigger the latch release. I could theoretically rewire the "auto-park" button for something else later.​

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BB5Z-13D730-AA​

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In a perfect world, simply adding the switch (and maybe some BCM programming) would make the button pop the liftgate, but I doubt I'm that lucky. I can see at least one spot in the schematics where I could possibly trigger the release relay with one or two wires, right under the dash, but I don't know how the BCM would react.​

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Has anyone here attempted a modification like this on a Gen 5 Explorer?​

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I only got a couple of responses on Reddit, but it made me think the following problems may occur:

• The button would simply do nothing
• The button would unlatch, but not unlock the liftgate
• It might trigger vehicle security
• It may simply cause the BCM to freak out

I spotted a couple of threads on similar topics, but nothing with any real substance. I am pretty good with electronics, and the wiring itself appears to be pretty straightforward, but I don't have a whole lot of experience with hacking the BCM if it comes down to that.

Does anyone here think this is doable? Any advice?

Thanks!

 

[jsgoofn]

I have 2015 Ex Sport.

The BCM is surprisingly easy to work with - it really is just a matter of trial and error. Keep in mind that you can always undo whatever you do in the BCM. But it has been so long since I have messed with it myself, that I can't remember all the steps. I tried searching the forum but I can never find anything. One of the moderators might be able to help. Or maybe you know about this already.....

Here is a post on the Forscan forum about the process to allow you to mess with the BCM:

Standard and Extended licenses for Windows - FORScan forum

I installed LEDs in the turns and used the BCM to stop the fast flash when the system thinks the regular incandescent bulb is burned out. I didn't want to add resistors due to the heat it causes. It took some messing around but eventually I got it to work.

If I find my notes, I will pass them along but for some reason, all my old posts have disappeared. Good luck.....

 

[Michael Blackburn]

You can give it a quick try without buying a new switch stack.
Note - This is for my 2018 but the switch box should be the same -
Pull out the switch box and disconnect the plug (C2114).
Short pin 7 (GY) to Pin 1 (BK-GY) ground for a moment. This simulates pushing the Liftgate button.

Fritz

 

[crowtc]

Thanks for the info jsgoofn, but I'm a computer guy with a programming and SCADA background, so using tools like Forscan comes pretty easy to me. I have already reprogrammed the APIM to enable navigation and changed a few documented IPC and BCM settings such as the ones you mentioned for the lights.

The various spreadsheets I have found online are not what I would call particularly detailed, but I did see some options for enabling the power liftgate. I don't know if there is an option to simply tell the BCM to unlock and release the liftgate when the inside button is pressed. (And ideally, it wouldn't allow the liftgate to be released while the vehicle is in motion.)

If I turned on that option, it is possible that the BCM will try to operate the lifgate motor and fail, but could be nice enough to release the lock and open the latch. My guess though is that it will try to communicate with the "Liftgate/Trunk Module" (LTM) and throw an error code.

 

[crowtc]

You can give it a quick try without buying a new switch stack.
Note - This is for my 2018 but the switch box should be the same -
Pull out the switch box and disconnect the plug (C2114).
Short pin 7 (GY) to Pin 1 (BK-GY) ground for a moment. This simulates pushing the Liftgate button.

Fritz

Heh, I was actually planning to try that very thing tomorrow.

 

[Joe Stewart]

Mine has the powered liftgate, but i purchased one of these switch stacks to have tow/haul. I also was looking at using the auto park switch in the future for something.
by the way, By installing the switch, the auto-park does nothing, whereas the other 2 do just what they are made for. I dont have the towing package, but i did want the tow/haul function. I have hitch already and purchased the oem light harness for trailer lights. just need the oil cooler and dedicated transmission cooler.

 

[Joe Stewart]

I have 2015 Ex Sport.

The BCM is surprisingly easy to work with - it really is just a matter of trial and error. Keep in mind that you can always undo whatever you do in the BCM. But it has been so long since I have messed with it myself, that I can't remember all the steps. I tried searching the forum but I can never find anything. One of the moderators might be able to help. Or maybe you know about this already.....

Here is a post on the Forscan forum about the process to allow you to mess with the BCM:

Standard and Extended licenses for Windows - FORScan forum

I installed LEDs in the turns and used the BCM to stop the fast flash when the system thinks the regular incandescent bulb is burned out. I didn't want to add resistors due to the heat it causes. It took some messing around but eventually I got it to work.

If I find my notes, I will pass them along but for some reason, all my old posts have disappeared. Good luck.....

I have the led's ready to go into the blinkers and have resistors ready, I would be interested in the settings to keep the fast flash off. I did notice that in the BCM settings that the blinker settings are disabled from burnout notice(or something of that order).
I guess i will install the bulbs and check if they are indeed fast flashing, I just assumed that i would need the resistors, but i would rather not use them.
Joe

 

[crowtc]

I have the following settings for replacing the front and rear flashers:

Front Bulbs	BCM	726-13-01	x*x*	xxxx	zz	0=Disabled (LED), 1=Enabled (Default)
Rear Bulbs	BCM	726-14-01	xxxx	x*x*	zz	0=Disabled (LED), 1=Enabled (Default)

Surprisingly, I have not changed out my flashers with LEDs yet, so I have not tested this, but it appears to be a widely used BCM mod.

FYI: These settings came from the sheet at FORScan Ford Explorer 11-20MY which is the largest and most recent one I have found to date for Explorers. It's not what I would call complete, but it's the best I've found so far.

 

[Bobs2018ExplorerSport]

MY question regarding this whole thing is, if you don't have a power liftgate that came with the car in the first place (such as in my XLT's case), why would the rear liftgate latch be anything but a manual latch?

Wouldn't you also have to open-up the liftgate and replace the manual latch mechanism with the electrically-powered version (it's expensive), before it would even respond to an impulse sent by a dash-mounted switch?

 

[peterk9]

All my vehicles had the power liftgate so I'm not sure what one without it would have, but it sounds reasonable that there would not be a button for it on the dash or anywhere else.

Peter

 

[crowtc]

You would think it would be a mechanical release, but it's an electric latch trigger by a button on the liftgate. The release button doesn't work if you disconnect the battery (or if your battery dies on you.)

The wiring for both the latch and the button appears to go all the way back to the BCM.

NOTE: My *brand new* Motorcraft battery died on me (apparently defective) and it took out my alternator and possibly other things. It's currently sitting at the dealership, so this project is on hold. I wasn't able to open the liftgate while the battery was discharged.

 

[peterk9]

You would think it would be a mechanical release, but it's an electric latch trigger by a button on the liftgate. The release button doesn't work if you disconnect the battery (or if your battery dies on you.)

The wiring for both the latch and the button appears to go all the way back to the BCM.

NOTE: My *brand new* Motorcraft battery died on me (apparently defective) and it took out my alternator and possibly other things. It's currently sitting at the dealership, so this project is on hold. I wasn't able to open the liftgate while the battery was discharged.

I believe there is a manual release behind a small panel on the inside of the 'gate' according to a post I read a few years back.

Peter

 

[crowtc]

I believe there is a manual release behind a small panel on the inside of the 'gate' according to a post I read a few years back.

Peter

Yes, there is a "Liftgate Latch Manual Release" under a panel on the inside of the liftgate, but IIRC it takes some doing to get at.

All I'm saying is that the regular release is electronic, not mechanical, even without the power liftgate option.

 

[crowtc]

Well, I have a new battery and alternator, the dealership also apparently had to upgrade the PCM firmware to the latest version to make things behave, but I finally have my Explorer back. While they were in there, I had them reflash the GPSM so now my Nav system is working correctly.

With any luck, I will be testing the trunk release after Thanksgiving.