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Adding limited slip

ernzo

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City, State
Denver, Colorado
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Mercury Mountaineer
2003 mountaineer 4.0 awd

Currently does not have LS, anyone ever replace their diff with one? Or perhaps alter the center section? I think my bearings are n the way out so....
 



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I did it on a second gen, you may be able to use the Mustang Cobra Carbon fiber Trac lock limited slip unit. About 225, pop on two bearings, and check backlash, add 75w140 with L/S additive,. If it is 31 spline it should work. Cobra is also an IRS setup. Works on any 8.8" 31 spline Ford diff.
 






@ernzo
What is unknown here is that Explorer uses an aluminum alloy 8.8 center section, and Mustang Cobra may not have. Are internal "guts" dimensions the same for aluminum as for cast iron?

Certainly, the needed parts to convert are available specced out for Ex. But setting up the gear set using the new Locking diff, is no trivial matter. If one has never attempted it, study up, and try it! Be prepared to understand and work with bearing preload limits on both pinion and ring gear, as well as gear tooth contact pattern adjustment.

Horrible results happen from a F. U. I know. imp
 






@ernzo
What is unknown here is that Explorer uses an aluminum alloy 8.8 center section, and Mustang Cobra may not have. Are internal "guts" dimensions the same for aluminum as for cast iron?

Certainly, the needed parts to convert are available specced out for Ex. But setting up the gear set using the new Locking diff, is no trivial matter. If one has never attempted it, study up, and try it! Be prepared to understand and work with bearing preload limits on both pinion and ring gear, as well as gear tooth contact pattern adjustment.

Horrible results happen from a F. U. I know. imp
8.8s are generally all the same dimensions. That carrier technically is for an IRS Mustang but can fit in any solid axle. A carrier taken from a solid axle may not work in a 3rd gen X, mustang cobra or thunderbird (well that has 28 spline and you would need different axles) but because the side pinion gears lack machining for a circlip. The Cobra carrier though is universal, That being said

1) The ABS tone ring may have to be swapped, if your existing setup has one, or get a new one for around 20 bucks (heat it up and drop it on)
2) Your ring gear gets reused, must be heated to 250 degrees or pressed on. Gets a bit more tricky without a press, New bolts highly suggested, they are 10 bucks a set, I got everything from American Muscle,
3) Your old shims will very likely get you to the 8-14 backlash spec (because the carrier is made by Ford). Needs an inexpensive moon shape tool to get them back in, they are cast iron and may shatter with a hammer alone. If that don't work though you have to use stackable shims, and there is a kit with a flanged retainer that holds the stackable shims together(vs without that may come loose, the factory ones are best)
4) Pinion does not have to be touched unless it is making noise(probably a good idea though to replace). If you replace the pinon bearings thing do get more complicated, and a press is suggested. I didn't change my Pinion bearing, but it was fine. That thick gear oil is very good stuff and required by Ford for almost anything now, especially the explorers.
Agreed, he should spend a few hours reading forums and watching YT vids before attempting. There are very good vids teaching how to repair the Explorer pumpkin, Good thing is you can take it in the house and work on it off the vehicle.
This isn't changing a Tire and probably cost at least 800 for a place to do. Not Goomer work.
That being said there are some special skills and tools needed to complete. As you say messing this up will destruct your rear end, but it can be done correctly.
 






Well said. Getting the side shims right to obtain the desired .009-.012 backlash is the hardest part. I've never done an IRS diff, only a few regular 8.8's, and only one pinion seal(R&R'd the front and relocated the nut where it was).

What is the best source for the LSD clutches now? I bought 3 sets from Ford in the 90's for about $55 each.
 






Well said. Getting the side shims right to obtain the desired .009-.012 backlash is the hardest part. I've never done an IRS diff, only a few regular 8.8's, and only one pinion seal(R&R'd the front and relocated the nut where it was).

What is the best source for the LSD clutches now? I bought 3 sets from Ford in the 90's for about $55 each.
American muscle sells a carbon fiber kit for about $100 bucks. I think it is a drop in thing after it is soaked, no shimming. There is also the old school one from Ford for about 70. Carbon fiber discs are excellent, driving in the snow with that carrier didn't need 4x4 until i got to steeper hills. I was never able to drive in snow with the open and 2wd, maybe with a ton of weight in the back. Probably last forever on a daily driver, considering the abuse the Mustang guys give that setup.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-88-traclok-kit.html
 












^ Agree. Makes it much better go-go, esp 0-30 mph.
 






^ Agree. Makes it much better go-go, esp 0-30 mph.
Yes, I have them, 4.10s are highly recommended. Lots of get up and go, would really be something on a more powerful engine like the 3rd gen. Your highway mileage drops a bit though because you are turning faster.
 






Yes, I have them, 4.10s are highly recommended. Lots of get up and go, would really be something on a more powerful engine like the 3rd gen. Your highway mileage drops a bit though because you are turning faster.

Even with my 3.73 the slightest hills take me out of overdrive so I think my overdrive gear could really benefit from a 4.10.

I will say my 3.73 towed 4000 lbs without needing hardly any additional throttle than unloaded (OD off for towing of course).
 






Since it's been discussed, the gears, I'll add that my 98 V8 truck needs more gear than the 3.73's, for my low speed mail delivery. I can tell as it shifts at 15-30mph that it would do better(work less hard) if it had 4.10's during those low speeds.

The mileage will only suffer if you do most of your miles at higher speeds than say 45mph. My mail truck spends about 4.5 hours driving 57 miles, with about 40-50 shut downs for 1-2 minutes each. So my 99 truck with the V6 and 4.10's does better at the lower speeds.

If you tow much, get the bigger gears like 4.10's or more, longer highway use stay with the 3.73's. Don't go below 3.73:1 unless you hardly see hills on highways for longer trips.
 






FWIW, tire diameters have over the years increased. That fact alone makes numerically-higher final gear ratios more acceptable. 3.73s were mostly unheard of in common, daily-driven machines when I "cut my teeth" in this ****. My '65 Mustang ordered new with High performance "K" option had choice of 3.89 or 4.10 gears. Standard was much lower.

All the famous 5.0L HO Mustangs beginning with the 1989, first with 48-state Mass-Air, had 3.08 gears standard!.

So we have better acceleration, thanks to lower rear gears, and equal economy, by using O/D to compensate for the higher driveshaft speeds. What more could we want? imp
 






FWIW, tire diameters have over the years increased. That fact alone makes numerically-higher final gear ratios more acceptable. 3.73s were mostly unheard of in common, daily-driven machines when I "cut my teeth" in this ****. My '65 Mustang ordered new with High performance "K" option had choice of 3.89 or 4.10 gears. Standard was much lower.

All the famous 5.0L HO Mustangs beginning with the 1989, first with 48-state Mass-Air, had 3.08 gears standard!.

So we have better acceleration, thanks to lower rear gears, and equal economy, by using O/D to compensate for the higher driveshaft speeds. What more could we want? imp

How about double O/D, like a Corvette? LOL, those got down near to 1:2 ratio in high gear.
 






I believe the Tremec 6-speeds beginning back in the '90s had 5th. and 6th. gear over-driven. imp
 






2003 mountaineer 4.0 awd

Currently does not have LS, anyone ever replace their diff with one? Or perhaps alter the center section? I think my bearings are n the way out so....
Change to a Trutrac - it will give you real limited slip.
 






Ditto, for about $470 from somewhere on Amazon.
 






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