Adjusting 5R55E bands...? I think I did it right!

[35Remmy]

Just came inside from adjusting my bands.

*I almost became the wheel chock after I pulled on the gear selector on the side of the tranny and it started rolling back. I jumped out from underneath the truck and ran behind the tailgate to stop the truck from rolling down the driveway and smashing into the Explorer...LOL*

Anyway...from what I can tell, the adjusting studs can only tighten so much because the locknut starts turning (tightening) too. After all, it was loosened first. So am I really tightening that stud, or am I actually tightening the locknut?

At first I held the locknut and went to tighten the stud to 120 in. lbs but if you do it this way, you could screw the stud ALL the way into the transmission.

The OD stud didn't turn much at all to get to 120 in. lbs. The intermediate band stud tightened a lot more (1 turn) until my torque wrench clicked.

Any input?

 

[wood1]

You should back off the jamb nut so you can turn the adjusting stud without the nut causing an incorrect reading on the torque wrench. Back the nut off several turns.

If you can screw the adjusting stud all the way into the transmission you have bigger problems... possible broken band etc.

Once you have the band tightened to specs you then tighten the lock nut holding the adjusting screw from turning at the same time.

 

[35Remmy]

So should I loosen the locknut first, per the instructions and then HOLD it with a wrench WHILE I turn the adjusting stud?

Everything says to just "loosen" the locknut...well, how much? I assumed just break it loose, then tighten the stud to 120 inch pounds.

But as I just mentioned, as soon as you start tightening the stud the locknut turns and tightens with it.

If I have to do this over I guess I'll just TIGHTEN the stud 2 turns ahead.

 

[35Remmy]

How many turns does the adjusting stud TYPICALLY take to get to 120 inch pounds?

 

[Nocturnall]

Back the lock nut off enough so that it'll spin freely while you tighten the stud. I gotta do this to my truck as the trans is pretty new and I'm sure the bands of loosened by now.

 

[wood1]

You could remove the nut if you want to get it out of the way but be careful you don't let the adjustment screw turn out too far while removing or loosening the nut or the band anchor could fall down inside of your transmission. I'd simply back the nut off several turns so that it is not contacting the transmission.

If your band isn't out of adjustment too badly you should be able to turn the screw in about 2 turns.

 

[35Remmy]

Thanks for the help Wood...yeah I just went back out to the garage and all I did was loosen the locknut, then TIGHTEN the adjusting nuts 2 times (like I was starting all over again...they were HARDLY tightened in the first place since the locknut was tightening, too)

I held the loose locknut with a wrench and tightened the adjusting stud until it got to 120 in. lbs.

What EXACTLY is happening with this adjustment? Like why TIGHTEN to a certain spec and then back OFF 2 turns? What is the band doing? All I can think of is something similar to the operation of a ratchet. If I actually SAW what was going on inside the tranny I'd have a better idea!

 

[wood1]

The band wraps around a drum inside of the transmission and when the servo that pushes on one end of the band is actuated it causes (along with other things) the transmission to shift into a different gear. The adjustment is at one end of the band and the servo is at the other. If the band wears it begins to become loose and that is why we adjust the bands.

Below is a pic from Glacier's rebuild, I gotta read this again soon...

You can see (even after I chopped the photo) the band anchor, servo and band wrapped around the drum.

Servo on the left and anchor on the right.

 

[CDW6212R]

I thought that you had the TransGo kit, which adjusts the bands differently, with the rear shaft feel.

 

[35Remmy]

CDW I have the Central Valve Bodies rebuild with Sonnax upgrades and modified separator plate and gasket which Donny at CVB did.

I just took the truck for a test drive after the band adjustments and there is absolutely NO change in the way it shifts, heh.

I would think that I would have felt SOME difference. Oh well.

My very LAST option is Dr. Tranny instant shudder fix by Lubeguard.

If that doesn't work, OH WELL. I'll live with some shudder. When the tranny needs to be rebuilt I'll have it rebuilt.

OH, so WOOD...I guess my bands aren't that worn then, since an adjustment made NO difference, right?!!! Maybe that's a GOOD thing, hay?!

 

[CDW6212R]

The Lubegard is very good for reducing shifting shudder, that may be just what you need. I didn't adjust my bands this time because I was unable to change the accumulators(snap ring). I'll probably wait until next year and change fluid as well then. Regards,

 

[BrooklynBay]

When you adjust the band, it wraps around the drum. When you loosen it up, it allows a certain amount of play for the servo to engage the band. If you tighten it up without loosening it up, then the drum will be locked all of the time, and not when the servo is applied. Maybe your servo is no good?

 

[wood1]

For the price you could throw some servos in...

I'd try the Transgo method of adjusting the bands, who knows?

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree, and the parts are not expensive. Getting the snap rings off is the hard part, after the cats, and valve body. It's a big job, plan for several hours if you do it.