Adventure trailer build thread. | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material. ;)

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

Dr washed.jpg

RTT on front pass side full view.jpg


First real use!

Camp set 1.jpg

Camp set 2.jpg

Bat wing awning up.jpg



Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31Lifpo4 100 AH Lithium batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy MPPT Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charger
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator
Portable Valence 80Ah Lifepo4 Solar Gen w/inverter

Accessories:
4 season 23Zero 73" Walkabout RTT W/ large Annex room - telescopic ladder w/rung pads- Ext shoe bags-Led lights- 3" thick x Ca King mattress w/anti condensation mat.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses. :)

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.
 



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Been thinking about the name some, and so far I like Shadow, and/or some kind a variant on this, ie...Dark shadow, midnight shadow, shadow mule, etc... This is not written in stone, just pondering on it is all. Kinda seeing if it grows on me or not. lol

Been raining hard here lately, and been working a bunch, so not much to report on here. I did manage to make a gasket for the switch panel. It didn't come with one, or I lost it. IDK! So I bought some dense foam gasket making material sheets of the old Amazonian parts getter site, made a template, and cut it out. Worked like a charm.

panel gasket.jpg

Will be back at it again this weekend. As if I have a life anymore, and would do something else!

Gotta get that choo going again here, as days are getting shorter now.
 



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I like it, the name Shadow, or half of a good name. It'll be like a rolling back pack, a supply shack etc. IDK either, keep pondering.
 












Making bottle holders ?
 






Looking good !
 












That 9-5, M til F thing turned into weekends for me too. Wasn't able to complete what I wanted to all the way, but got 70% done.

Anychoo... Now that the floor was built, and the tops was sealed up, the bottoms needed it as well. Stain used was Minwax, and it has a sealer in it, then a couple coats of the clear was also used, on the sides and bottoms, but that wasn't enough for me.

To really seal it up, and take the abuse of traveling on/off road, I used 60 mil commercial fleece backed TPO roofing membrane for the bottoms. I had a left over roll, from a past job, so it worked out perfectly. Pc's was cut to size, notched/trimmed, and adhered with a contact cement. That picture of the propane tank, is my redneck pressure roller. For roofing, we just use a short stiff bristle broom to work the material into the adhesive, then use a 25 lb roller to work seams, then heat weld. I didn't have the roller, and the propane tank weighed 28 lbs, is round, so why not? :D Got all the bottoms done yesterday, and the edges worked on today.

contact cement.jpg



Glue on the edges setting up before the material can be wrapped. Tape to protect the tops, from adhesive on the sides.

top masked for glue.jpg


The rear main compartment flooring is on the rack drying overnight, and will get installed another day. I wrapped the edges of the boards, then taped them to the face, to hold them until the glue is completely set up, and cured.

taped edges for glue.jpg


This front pc, I didn't glue to the board edges for a reason. These will be sealed to the trailer walls instead, forming a nice tight barrier to the outside.
I did this one the day before, and it was ready for install. Fastened to the frame tabs with 1/2" carriage bolts, washers and stop nuts, all stainless. (don't look at the lawn mowing shoes!)

front floor installed.jpg


Shot from underneath showing the TPO. This stuff is durable, cleans fairly well, and is weather tight.

front floor underneath view of tpo.jpg


I had a bit of a time with the carriage bolts. These sink into the wood when drawn tight, and grab for a no spin. Well, one of them the recess hole was filled with clear or just wasn't big enough, so it wouldn't grab, and just spins. I need someone to apply pressure to it, as I work the impact on the nut. Fight for another day. Once these are all installed, I can start the next step.

That's it for this weekend ladies & germs.

Oh... How does Midnight Shadow or Night Shade sound?
 






I like that Midnight Shadow, but both are very good.
 






Another little Milestone. The rest of the flooring is installed finally.

Had to rework the holes in both the flooring and the mounting tabs, as the TPO is 1/8" thick on the edges. 2 edges =1/4", 3 edges=3/8", etc...

Got it all taken care of, and they are all now bolted in nice and secure. I had one seam between the front & middle, that had a tiny gap, so I used some stiff metal backed tar tape to seal it off from underneath, to the frame rail. We use this stuff when installing new windows. Amazing stuff, but crazy expensive. I just happened to have a new roll of it, left over from a job. :D

Inside with divider wall removed.

Flooring inside.jpg


Underside showing the tar tape. This stuff grabs, and sticks great when it's warm out. Once it sets up for a couple days, it will be some work to remove it. But, that's a good thing.

Flooring underneath done.jpg


Getting closer & closer to being something. Woot Woot *****'s!!
 












Personal CRS Electrical reference post: Cuz I'm so old, I remember when Rainbows was in Black & White. Gotta write this fodder down! Filling in as I go.

7 wire J box:

IN> White = Ground 8 ga ................... OUT> Black 4 ga ..........TO> Frame
IN> Black = Battery Charge 8 ga ........OUT> Red 8 ga ............TO> Tongue box Battery
IN> Yellow = Left turn.......................... OUT> Yellow ...............TO> Left Turn
IN> Red = Aux.................................... OUT> White...................TO> Reverse
IN> Green = Right turn........................ OUT> Green..................TO> Right turn
IN> Brown = Running/tail/tag.............. OUT> Brown .................TO> Running/tail/tag
IN> Blue 14 ga = Electric brakes ....... OUT> Blue 14 ga ...........TO> Brakes

Tongue box:
115v 2 bank 20 amp smart battery charger> 110Ah Magm Dual batteries =220Ah
2000w power inverter>
Solar battery controller/charger>
12 circuit 12v Bluesea fuse block>
100 amp circuit breakers x2> Fuse block /Fridge
100 amp safety switch x2> Fuse block / Fridge
100 amp fuse> Tow rig Alt charge wire
120v outlet for battery charger/inverter, w/cable door

Tongue box out:
100 amp breaker- Red 4 ga...........To> 12v Fridge/Freezer
4 awg grounds (2 ea)..................To> Frame
Control Panel:
Breaker # 1..................................To>Roof 18W Led pods (4ea)
Breaker #2...................................To>Undercarriage 10W Led pods (4 ea)
Breaker #3...................................To>Awning Led power
Breaker #4...................................To>Main box Led Dome lights
Breaker #5...................................To>Side doors power
Breaker #6...................................To>Rear door power
Breaker #7...................................To>T-box usb port
Breaker #8...................................To>T-box 2000w inverter
Breaker #9...................................To>T-box 12v outlet for 1mil CP handheld spotlight
Breaker #10.................................To>open

Front Compartment:

Main compartment:

Left & Right side boxes:

Roof:

Undercarriage:

Tent:

Awning:
 






Not much spare time to work on this thing over the last week. Too hot and humid, to want to work on it much either.

Got strap points welded on all 4 corners of the trailer, etching primer, and some simple rattle can paint for now.

strap mount etch primed.jpg

strap mount temp painted.jpg


Mounted and wired up the J-box. Had to remove the tongue box for this. Yay! (not). Cable is strapped to the top of the tongue rail for safety, tucked under the expanded metal, and ran to the box. Box is mounted to the 1/4" AR plate, and grounded to the frame via 4 ga, Out wires come back thru the expanded metal, where eventually will be tied into everything, and ran inside some 3/4" flex conduit.

7 pin wire mounted on tongue beam.jpg

7 pin wire tucked under expanded.jpg

J box mounted.jpg


Decided to do a mock up of the interior 1/2" electrical conduit. Glad I did, as I need to make some changes. Have to replace all the 90* elbows with gradual 90* sweep corners, and 1/2" J-box's. Reason being, is fishing the wires past those 90* corners, will be a PITA, even with a flat fish tape. I could make it work, and put the conduit together as I run the wires, but if I want to add a circuit down the road, it would have to come apart. Meh...

I am going to wait until the temps are bearable to be working inside this thing. Pretty sure I am going to install a vent fan. I didn't think of the interior temps until I was laying inside this thing, and felt like a a turkey in the oven.

conduit mock up.jpg


Until next time,..... don't forget to tip your Banana mechanic.
 






Rain day!! With today's gully washer, I had some free time from work. Stuck inside, I quickly wrapped up my paperwork for the day, and headed out to the shop. Hello Beautiful!! Heh heh heh....

Anywho... I picked up a few things from the hardware store the other day, and threw them on the trailer. The objective was to get wiring from the tongue box, and the tow pigs wiring J-box underneath, safely into the main box. Sounds simple enough.

If you have been following along, and remember the details, I made this tongue box to swivel out, for spare tire access. It is nice and close to the tire (1" space), and utilizes the square footing, as all real estate on this thing, is at a premium. This means, the plumbing, has to be able to move with the T-box, as it swivels, yet stay securely in place.

The choice was made, over many burgers flipped on the grill, to use flex conduit, and watertight connectors. I had 1/2" stuff for this bought a long time ago, but after figuring out the amount of wires being used, and the mix of gauges used, I needed to go bigger. 3/4" is used. Doesn't seem like a 1/4" is much different, but it is 50% larger in the I.D.

Locations marked, and 1" holes was drilled with a step bit. Irwin step bit, not that cheap chinesium HF crap. Only the best for my baby!

This is one of the watertight connectors. It has a nice rubber O-ring to seal with, and a NPT grab spanner nut to clamp with. After the flex line is inserted where you want, the collar is hand tightened.

Watertight connector.jpg


I ran two lines into the box. The choice was made to have the junction inside the box, rather than on top of the tongue. Making the junction outside would have meant a clunky 3/4" 3-way J-box and very short flex lines, making it a tight fit, and I needed a loose fit for the swivel. Not to mention the raidus sweep for fishing lines. Wait.. crap, I mentioned it.

Both lines installed. Line coming out of the T-box will power all accessories. It had to be ran inboard a bit, to make the swivel angle when pulled on. Line coming from under the tongue, will power the trailer lights from the tow pig 7 wire box, plus the aux battery charge line. This line will be looped back from inside the trailer. Was the only blah point of this set up. Can't have everything man! The flex is strapped to the tongue tight, but loose to the t-box. Just needs a little play to move freely when the box is swiveled out. Straps will get paint eventually. Haven't decided if I want to bother with the PVC or not, as it will be a maintenance deal, once done.

Flex conduit installed to both boxes.jpg


Into the T-box, above the shelf, where all the lines will be coming from the devices mounted there.

Flex into tongue box.jpg

Into the main box, where the junction will be made, and plumbed from there.

Flex into main box.jpg


The Milwaukee Inkzall markers are made from octopus ass ink or something, it is hard to remove! I ran out of denatured alcohol, and 93% rubbing alcohol was useless. Everything else I have is too volatile to use, as it will eat the paint off.

Until next time..... Remember to send your wife's OBGYN a thank you card. It's a dirty job, but that's why they make the big bucks!
 






I know how that goes, the brake cleaner and carb cleaner or too much for some things. Find some prepsol, a solvent for prepping paint/body work. I have a little left, and it works well for glue etc, but it won't melt plastic like brake cleaner can with some plastics.
 












Okay, go get the carb spray! Don't.
 






Can't wait until the first freeze. I can't take these Apache sized Skeeters any longer!

Pulled the wires for the J-box into the trailer, and buttoned that up finally. This meant I was ready to see if my plans worked or was a big fail with the swiveling T-box. Started this box months ago, so yeah, was kind of a big moment for me. With sweaty palms, and held breath, I swung it out to full lock.

Success! Look at, would ya just look at it? I mean, just look at that!

Swung to the Pass side

T box swung Pass side.jpg


View from the Dr side

T-box swung Dr side.jpg


Ok, so after I began breathing normal again, I wrestled the 35" MTR into place. Got the theft slower downer dealio on too.

Spare on.jpg

Tire is a bit dirty you say? No problem, on goes the Best Top cover. Closed the T-box, and it moved ever so nicely, smooth as a baby's bottom. Locked it down, and checked the clearance. Perfect! This train is Chooching now!

spare tire cover on.jpg


But wait! There's more!

Stood back and just let the view soak in. Had to wipe some tears of joy away, before the neighbors seen me.

Jerry can on.jpg


Really starting to look like something real now. :)
 






I love it.

For the bugs, do you have any cordless fans yet? I hate the skeeters, they love me, so I have a big fan at home I use while outside near the garage. I bought a Makita 18v fan last year that works great for portable use, anywhere away from home. Makita DCF300Z 18V LXT Cordless 13" Job Site Fan, Tool Only
 






I have looked at the Rigid portable, and want it badly. I already have a bunch of the newer style Rigid 18v tools, with a bunch of batteries, and a couple chargers. Matter of fact, one of them chargers, is being mounted inside the tongue box.

I just do my best to move the 20" shop fan around as I work, but could use a bigger unit or another like it, to help. I do miss the 24" shop fan that recently died, that thing kicked ass for well over 10 yrs, before all the shop debris clogged the motor, and kilt it.

I'm also a skeeter magnet. 5 mins and some dime size welts all over. Hate it.
 



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Took advantage of the Chinesium store, Labor day sale with the coupons.

2500 # ATV winch, synnthetic rope swap, and wireless. Snatch block, straps and shackles (already own) will be stowed away.
This will be used for multiple things, and the big one, is to slide the ass end of the trailer, in the event of a tight turn to sharp to make the bend.

Making it removable with a hitch adapter I will build for it, and I happen to have a smaller group 28 MAGM battery for it, that can be mounted inside the trailer, and charged by a 3 bank charger in the T-box.

It will also double to assist in install/removal of the Roof Top Tent (RTT). This was cheaper than getting the 1500# chain lift for the rafters, that was planned for, and this takes care of that, when needed.

trailer winch.jpg

$95 out the door!!
 






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