Air Filters & drilled boxes... | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Air Filters & drilled boxes...

Or do the KMM for a $100 and replace the filter and the restrictive stock air box all at once. Better HP and Throttle response and gas mileage
 



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i was thinking about doing that, but i was questioning whether or not that intake would be good to use in offroad water conditions
 






K&N Flow when dirty???

I don't want to ruffle any feathers, but I would like to see the airflow of a K&N after it gets dirty and is cleaned. No matter how good a job you do cleaning it, it still retains A LOT of dirt and gunk from the road, significantly decreasing airflow... If you look on the back of the K&N box, it shows that it flows like 900+ cc's of air new, whereas a new paper filter flows about 450... however, when the K&N gets dirty, it flows less (about 450) BUT filters better...

I am a believer in K&N filters, I have had several, and the wife Grand Am GT has one, BUT I am still skeptical that it is adding HP once it has gotten dirty...

Some stangbangers I used to run with would by the panel filters for $40, run them till they got dirty, and then sell them for $20 and then go buy another one- I guess that is one way to always have a high-flowing filter!!!

I also think it has a lot to do with the vehicle- I have added them with a big diff., and no diff... it all depending on the setup of each particular engine.

I am currently trying to talk myself into spending the $50 clams on the panel filter, when I can order a KKM for $100 or MAC Cold Air for $150...

For now I will stick to my paper Wix filter, and let the money keep burning my leg...:D :D :eek:
 






I dont know about you but with a soft bristle brush I can get all the dirtout of my KKM or K&N, like new. K&N claims that even when dirty it still flows more then a paper filter....
 






Suggestion...

Instead of drilling the air box, try this:

cut the bottom of the airbox leaving the 'feet' intact.
OR cut the bottom and the sides, again leaving the feet.
Take out the factory plastic/shield/snorkle thing. Go to the hobby store and get some thin plastic sheets ( you might even be able to use the factory plastic sheet that you took out ), fit and cut the plastic to size, creating a hot air shield and screw it to the sheet metal on the truck.

You would have cold air from behind the headlight and no/minimal hot air from the engine.

SOUND GOOD or am I off my rocker????

JR
 






If i drill holes, what size bit do i need to use. are we talking about a few (~4) small like 3/8'' size holes or are we talking about 1 or 2 large holes (3/4")?

Also where do i put the holes? on the top or on the bottom where the tube connect to the intake (place filer is in or before that)?
 






Use your brain....more air flow and....

more dirt and contaminents in the intake ...leave it alone
 






alrighty. i'll cross that idea off my list.
 






JWood, i wouldnt put down intake mods so quickly. remember that the air filter is still filtering the air that goes into the engine, no matter what quantity of air it is. whoever does this mod needs to make sure they drill the holes after the air filter. if this is done properly it will not be bad for the engine
 






yeah if it's done properly...

and you have the right exhaust sytstem...one compliments the other..and what are you really gaining...?
 






JWood,
Even minor intake and exhaust mods can free up some power and throttle response. Many of us have seen gains with these mods, even though they may be small. And intake and exhaust are the start to any performance buildup. A good intake setup (even if it involves holes in the airbox) will not be detrimental to the motor in any way.
 






Ok, Alec I admit you may be right....

I've read other posts from you and realize you know a great deal about Explorers, so, certainly your suggetions should be taken seriously.
 






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