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Amplifiers NOT to buy

i just dont want to go out and buy junk that doesnt live up to its claimed wattage


Before I start, I'm not an expert. I am getting this information from an electronic engineer. I have also gone thru a few amps and lots of subs and speakers. As far as living up to its claimed wattage. Most companies like MTX, Kicker, Power Acoustic, Alpine, and the like advertise peak wattage. For example, I at one time had a Legacy 600 watt 2 ch amp. i was running 2 of the bust buy "buy 1 get 1" mtx thunder 4000 10's a few years ago. Thats 600 peak, if you do the math with the voltage your battery is putting it to it and the size of the fuse you will find out its not possible.

I now have gone to "old school" amps like old soundstream, orion, old rockford. the amp i have now is a soundstream reference series 405s 5 ch amp. its advertised at 25 watts per ch on ch's 1-4 (fr, fl, rr, rl) and 50 on the sub. however, it is stable down to 1/4 ohm. so lets look at this as long as you have the battery power, you can run 16 4 ohm subs at 800 watts true clean power.

I had 4 old worn out paper 10's running at 1 ohm they would blow away most of the "getto thug" systems running so called 2000 watts, 3000 watt, and up i ran into.

Just some food for thought... :D
 



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any amp that has a fuse on it, built in is junk.
 






any amp that has a fuse on it, built in is junk.

90% of the time I would agree with you. Old school soundstream amps used a fuse on the amp. Back in the 80's and very early 90's they were still hand made here in the US. Very good and very high quality. But as for the newer crap, most of it is crap. BUT it really depends on what kind of sound you are looking for. Some people may be extremely happy with the cheap crap, as long as its installed, hooked up , and run correctly it will last for years.

not having a fuse close to the battery is a mistake for the average driver. IF something were to short out, your car could burn to the ground in a matter of minuets. Ive seen it happen.
 






ive had great luck with autotech the old school all white one. ran e.v. off them and kicker solobarik a while back. very dependable and great power
 












any amp that has a fuse on it, built in is junk.

I'll also disagree with that.

I ran a Soundstream Reference 300 for years. Always ran it mono to various 2ohm sub configurations. No problems. The Phoenix AZ 115º heat put it to rest though. I would still be running that amp today if that did not happen. I might still get it repaired and save it for later to replace my "last of the USA made" Kicker DX350 amp, if that ever decides to die.

12169d1300340557-soundstream-reference-300-250d323c17c2dfd732a25a2cd14c0446-jpg

Image courtesy of http: //ampguts.com
 






I run Zed built Usacoustics amps...3 of them without built in fuses...However...There are a lot of great amps that do have fuses....Basing quality on whether an amp has fuses built in or not is ridiculous.
 






I'll also disagree with that.

I ran a Soundstream Reference 300 for years. Always ran it mono to various 2ohm sub configurations. No problems. The Phoenix AZ 115º heat put it to rest though. I would still be running that amp today if that did not happen. I might still get it repaired and save it for later to replace my "last of the USA made" Kicker DX350 amp, if that ever decides to die.

12169d1300340557-soundstream-reference-300-250d323c17c2dfd732a25a2cd14c0446-jpg

Image courtesy of http: //ampguts.com

so just power the amp with a 16 gauge wire...... look at the fuse, how much current can it flow.....

best amps that ever were made even fosgate never had a fuse, the new junk they make is all crap.

what a 400 old school fosgate could do a 800 watt fused amp didnt come close to the power, sound.

that fuse is the biggest power reducer to the amp.

when you run a 0/1/2 power wire, to a base amp, you want solid power, not power over some bs fuse.
 






I have 2 Phoenix Gold ZR475ti that are 11 years old. They still sound great. I've had the caps replaced by PG service. I have a USA amp Its a Merlin 4x90 watt unit. Its stronger than the PGs. It is fused with 3 30 amp fuses. The old USA made amps are hard to beat. I can have my PGs rebuilt for $141.00. As long as I can I'll keep using them for my front speakers. I want a matching USA amp with around 300 watts per side to put in my F250. I'll find one someday. When I see a amp with 1000 watts for $198. I know its not the quality of my old school amps.
 






so just power the amp with a 16 gauge wire...... look at the fuse, how much current can it flow.....

best amps that ever were made even fosgate never had a fuse, the new junk they make is all crap.

what a 400 old school fosgate could do a 800 watt fused amp didnt come close to the power, sound.

that fuse is the biggest power reducer to the amp.

when you run a 0/1/2 power wire, to a base amp, you want solid power, not power over some bs fuse.

I have no clue what you're smoking but you have no clue at all what you're talking about. So in your world the fuse no matter what the rating limits power??? Is that what you're saying? So I guess you run amps with straight runs of power cable and no fusing at all???
 






I personally like the new fosgates. I'm also a huge fan of Power Bass amps, I'm currently running a power bass xta 4000d and it's a beast. Only thing that sucks is that it's a power hog.
 






i just dont want to go out and buy junk that doesnt live up to its claimed wattage

I havent read through the entire thread but here's my $.02..

I have been messing around with car audio for about 11 years now,

I have used many different brands(cheep and expensive). The one brand that I have come across that meets an exceeds their claimed wattage is Kicker, once you go Kicker you never go back :p: . Also I have found a really cool online store that sells all kinds of car audio components that are remanufactured for about 1/3 of the cost new. They are a Kicker authorized dealer and all of their Kicker products have a manufacture waranty. I actually bought an amp from them that had a couple of issues so I called up Kicker got a rma number sent it out and got it back a week and half later good as new(I was stationed in Korea at the time).

The site is: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/
 






I have no clue what you're smoking but you have no clue at all what you're talking about. So in your world the fuse no matter what the rating limits power??? Is that what you're saying? So I guess you run amps with straight runs of power cable and no fusing at all???

i ran power, on a 125amp cir breaker. all i cared over is if the hot or B+ went to ground and dont burn the vehicle down.

as for amps with fuses, YES THEY CANT PERFORM.

all fused amps are like the systems best buys tries to sell. its in it for warranty. not performance.
 






i ran power, on a 125amp cir breaker. all i cared over is if the hot or B+ went to ground and dont burn the vehicle down.

as for amps with fuses, YES THEY CANT PERFORM.

all fused amps are like the systems best buys tries to sell. its in it for warranty. not performance.


Listen....I am 44 yrs old. I have been into car audio since 15. You are relating the fuse issue to the time era. Way back when most amps had no onboard fusing......the manufacturer sure as hell intended for you to install one right before the amp. Not doing so is totally irresponsible. That is just the kind of really bad info that gets passed out on this forum that is really unsafe. You mentioned about an old rf amp whooping the new one....keep in mind...I am a huge oldschool fan. The reason was how the amps are rated. You do realize they outright lied on ratings on the oldschool amps. They were called cheater amps to win competitions. An internal fuse had nothing at all to do with it. NOTHING!!!!!!
 






Amps made with onboard fusing.

US amps

Audioque

DLS

TRU Technology

Helix

Image Dynamics

Digital Designs

Genesis.....




You get the idea....Not exactly junk as you said that can be purchased at Best Buy.
 






Listen....I am 44 yrs old. I have been into car audio since 15. You are relating the fuse issue to the time era. Way back when most amps had no onboard fusing......the manufacturer sure as hell intended for you to install one right before the amp. Not doing so is totally irresponsible. That is just the kind of really bad info that gets passed out on this forum that is really unsafe. You mentioned about an old rf amp whooping the new one....keep in mind...I am a huge oldschool fan. The reason was how the amps are rated. You do realize they outright lied on ratings on the oldschool amps. They were called cheater amps to win competitions. An internal fuse had nothing at all to do with it. NOTHING!!!!!!

sorry i will disagree

but i will agree on one factor. most amps yes they all come fused. but so far i'm not even remotely impressed with current market amps vs old school amps.

back then what you did with 1-2k watts, you end up with a grand total of 20k watts for the same effect. so while technology even evolved amps they made them imo ****ter then what they were.

heck even xtant dont sell a sub amp anymore..... funny.
 






sorry i will disagree

but i will agree on one factor. most amps yes they all come fused. but so far i'm not even remotely impressed with current market amps vs old school amps.

back then what you did with 1-2k watts, you end up with a grand total of 20k watts for the same effect. so while technology even evolved amps they made them imo ****ter then what they were.

heck even xtant dont sell a sub amp anymore..... funny.

And Thank You!!!!!! We agree.....Yes like I said....I love Old school amps. But it has nothing do do with an amp having an onboard fuse or not.
 






I like to buy your reference 300

I'll also disagree with that.

I ran a Soundstream Reference 300 for years. Always ran it mono to various 2ohm sub configurations. No problems. The Phoenix AZ 115º heat put it to rest though. I would still be running that amp today if that did not happen. I might still get it repaired and save it for later to replace my "last of the USA made" Kicker DX350 amp, if that ever decides to die.

12169d1300340557-soundstream-reference-300-250d323c17c2dfd732a25a2cd14c0446-jpg

Image courtesy of http: //ampguts.com

Do have any idea what you would want for it?
 









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One of my favorites

I have a SP100 Sanyo amp with a motorized fader and 4 Zenith Allegro 24" subs. Cleanest 10watts I ever had.
Then I had a 4 channel Audiomobile Amp 12w.....been trying to locate another for the past 25 years. Any help would be appreciated.
 






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