Andy's SAS is Finally starting.

[Equnoxe]

OK well, i had to put the project on hold because of some "life events" but ready to start on it again. This is the first time I've done something so involved like this, so bare with me on the newbie questions. I have a HP D44 and big bearing 9" from a 1978 Bronco XLT

I've finally stripped down the housings, and am ready to paint/rebuild but I need some clarification on what I need to buy/how to do some things, etc.

This is what i have planned out so far.

9"

-Buy new perches and weld on, so I can use the stock leafs. Also going to
weld on new mounts for the sway bar
-Paint with nice thick layer of bed liner (being sure of not to plug any holes)
-5.13 gears (I want to run 36" tires and lock the front and rear)
-Bearings kit (two inner and two outer plus install materials)
-Seals (two outer)
-Disk Conversion with E-brake (prefabbed to use explorer hardware) hopefully
-New brake lines
-hoping to use stock drive shaft?
-Use stock shocks and shock mounts (on top of leafs with new U bolts)


D44 HP

-Bearings kit (two inner and 4? outer)
-New Seals (two inner and tube dust shield on the end of tubes)
-New HD u joints x2
-New HD ball joints x4
-5.13 Gears
-Upgraded calipers (t bird I think right?)
-Warn premium locking hubs
-New brakes/Hub?
-Reuse the spindles
-Painted with bed liner as well.
-Hoping to use stock bronco shaft (maybe get it lengthened/shortened)
-Radius arm and track bar bushings
-New steering joints


-I'm Hoping to use the stock coil buckets and shock mounts (spaced out from the frame. (still unsure if i have to space it out, or if how much)
-I'm hoping i can use the stock bronco steering box, and just hook it up to the explorers steering pump, and rig up some steering adapter.
-I'm going to use the stock 15" ribbed rims that came on the bronco, they are wide/light and in decent shape.




If Ive overlooked something (which I know I did lol) please point it out. All input is helpful

 

[section525]

Andy.. before you decide on the Bronco box, check out this pic. You can save a lot of space.

 

[IZwack]

Andy .. before you start the swap, check out this pic. You can save a lot of outer space:
http://images2.fanpop.com/image/photos/9700000/Toy-Story-3-Andy-toy-story-3-9703149-1024-576.jpg

[/hijack]

 

[section525]

Andy .. before you start the swap, check out this pic. You can save a lot of outer space:
http://images2.fanpop.com/image/photos/9700000/Toy-Story-3-Andy-toy-story-3-9703149-1024-576.jpg

[/hijack]

You're a toy! A child's play thing!





But, are you a v6 or v8? If you don't have the v8 I would suggest sticking with an inside-the-frame box like the stock 1st gens have. That will make it easier to keep your pan hard and drag link the same length.

 

[Equnoxe]

Andy .. before you start the swap, check out this pic. You can save a lot of outer space:
http://images2.fanpop.com/image/photos/9700000/Toy-Story-3-Andy-toy-story-3-9703149-1024-576.jpg

[/hijack]

hah!

I forgot about the yotabox, other then saving space is their any benefit? would the bronco box be stronger? or maybe have less bump steer? i do plan on using the shock in the steering. (don't know what its actual name is.)

unfortunately i have the V6, i was planning on just reusing the track bar and drag link from the bronco, and just moving the frame mounts outwards, didn't think i would have to modify it. would this work, or will it cause problems?

Am I missing any parts for the axles on my list? I'm pretty sure I got everything.

thanks a lot for taking the time to help me with this.

 

[Equnoxe]

well i got my first box of parts,

diff overhaul kit (all new bearings and seals)
2 more Oil seals
171.23$CAD

 

[IZwack]

Ah see you got ripped off - if you would've looked at that pic I linked to, you could've bought the same stuff for $162.41 USD.

 

[Equnoxe]

Ah see you got ripped off - if you would've looked at that pic I linked to, you could've bought the same stuff for $162.41 USD.

i don't get it

 

[IZwack]

oyy... $162.41 USD = $171.23 CAD :

 

[Equnoxe]

oh lol (little slow)

 

[RockRanger]

Good idea on the 5.13 gears. We need more pictures.

 

[Equnoxe]

ill try and take some pictures tonight of everything i have so far.


I'm unsure as to what kind of bed liner to use. anyone have any recommendations?

 

[DB_1]

I forgot about the yotabox, other then saving space is their any benefit? would the bronco box be stronger? or maybe have less bump steer? i do plan on using the shock in the steering. (don't know what its actual name is.)

All of those steering box's should be pretty strong so just go with one that will fit with what you are doing. A steering box has nothing to do with bump steer, the steering linkage does. As said many times over here, you want your drag link and trac-bar as close to the same length and on the same angle as possible.
That will keep your bump steer in check and no steering stabilizer will be necessary. Steering stabilizers are generally used to mask bump steer problems i. e. bad steering angles, etc.

As for bed liners, if you're not draging stuff across it i'd use chassis undercoating that come in a can. I used the Summit Racing brand coating on my fenderwells and it's been holding up great in the year or so that its been on there. No peeling or anything yet and it looks like the Line-X I have in my bed and it's only around 5 or 6 bucks a can. If you go with this stuff buy an extra can or 2 because a can goes quick.

 

[Equnoxe]

All of those steering box's should be pretty strong so just go with one that will fit with what you are doing. A steering box has nothing to do with bump steer, the steering linkage does. As said many times over here, you want your drag link and trac-bar as close to the same length and on the same angle as possible.
That will keep your bump steer in check and no steering stabilizer will be necessary. Steering stabilizers are generally used to mask bump steer problems i. e. bad steering angles, etc.

As for bed liners, if you're not dragging stuff across it I'd use chassis undercoating that come in a can. I used the Summit Racing brand coating on my fender wells and it's been holding up great in the year or so that its been on there. No peeling or anything yet and it looks like the Line-X I have in my bed and it's only around 5 or 6 bucks a can. If you go with this stuff buy an extra can or 2 because a can goes quick.

Thanks a lot!

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

just a suggestion about the bed liner...axles can get pretty hot, so i would stay from using bed liner on them. ive done it on an axle and it turns chalky and fades in about 3 months. use black caliper paint with ceramic instead. that stuff stays nice for much longer and its more heat resistant.

 

[Equnoxe]

thanks for pointing that out, never thought they would get that hot. what if I were to mix the two?

This is just the axles and D44 bearings/seals. I still need a lot more parts, I also need to go sandblast the axles, and paint / weld on the perches. I already wire wheeled/washed them.

I'm planning on having everything ready to start installing by the end of the winter.

 

[turboexplorer]

Subscribing! Looking good.

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

thanks for pointing that out, never thought they would get that hot. what if I were to mix the two?

well low gears means a faster turning pinion and that creates heat. ive felt my axle after driving for 10 miles or so and its hot enough that you cant touch the pumpkin. duno if you would mix it....caliper paint then a layer of truck liner....i have a feeling it would peel off.

 

[Equnoxe]

true, i was thinking more like getting a can of caliper paint and a can of liner and mixing them. idk

 

[turboexplorer]

well low gears means a faster turning pinion and that creates heat.

True but with going to a bigger tire, that is minimized. Course that all has to do with the final drive ratio. But Very hot either way. Here in 110* you cant even touch the diffs period with only a 10 mile drive.